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Old 09-09-2012, 09:06 PM   #1
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Resealing Vista Views and Stacks in a '74 Sovereign

Resealing Vista Views with the snap out ring. Can't help you if you don't have this style... sorry.

Starting out view of windows. Somebody at some point in Big Bertha's 38 years on the planet decided they needed to tint her windows... on the outside. Hence all the crackly looking finish. It's automotive tint, but done on the outside of the window. Inside view shows the old film from between the windows peeling off... in the words of Fletch, "Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them..."
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:14 PM   #2
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Next we're going to pull the aluminum (like there's any other kind of metal) ring that holds the whole thing in place. First, find the split in the ring where the two ends meet. I grabbed one side with a pair of angled needle nose and just pulled it out. Window was very loose to begin with.

Here's a shot with the ring pulled, and one of the fancy tool I invented to pull the plexi-glass and the glass window loose. Use extreme caution pulling the glass, you can crack it pretty easy.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:26 PM   #3
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Once you have them out, it's time to start cleaning. This part took longer than the whole rest of the process. I used a rather dull pocket knife to scrape out the old butyl the PO had used to try and seal these windows. Dull knife won't gouge the sacred aluminum like a sharp one will. Still. use caution. After scraping the old butyl out, I used mineral spirits to remove any residue, glass cleaner to remove the mineral spirits, and then a 3M pad to really get the inside of the frame clean. The Bud long-neck was for personal consumption by a responsible adult... OK, I lied, I'm not responsible.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:44 PM   #4
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I left out the shots of me scraping the window film off, and cleaning the glass and plexi. You'll need to get a razor blade and scrape the inside of the glass to remove the rest of the original solar film that didn't peal off. Don't scrape the plexi, it scratches very easily. Next I used the tried and true method of Mineral Spirits/glass cleaner/Bud long-neck to remove the rest of the old butyl from the glass and plexi.

Now for the fun part. You may want to order this stuff way before you start on the windows, or you'll do like I did and duct tape up a window while waiting on supplies.

I ordered 2 rolls of 1/16" thick and 3 rolls of 3/16" thick Tremco Polyshimm II from allglassparts.com. This is a shimmed poly butyl. It has a plastic shim built into it (go figure) to keep the butyl from compressing to far.

Now, with a nice clean window frame, lay in a strip of the 1/16" polyshim. I started in the top middle, so just in case the two end didn't seal together, that spot would be on top. Hard for water to run up hill...

Keep the edge of the polyshim just inside the edge of the window frame. If you look at your glass compared to the frame, it doesnt go all the way to the outside edges of the frame, so you don't want the shim to be past the edge of the glass. The second picture shows the frame with the 1/16" polyshim installed. The third is with the glass installed over the polyshim.

At this point you'll want to get your glass cleaner and clean off all the finger prints you made on the inside of the glass, unless you just want them there to bug the crap out of you every time you wake up and see them...
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:50 PM   #5
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After cleaning the glass, install a strip of the 3/16" polyshim. Stick it flush with the edge of the glass.

Then, with a really clean piece of plexi, insert the plexi into the frame.

And finally, use a screwdriver to push the clip ring back in place.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:59 PM   #6
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Only thing left to do is glaze it. Glazing is that final seal around the outside of the window. It helps seal it, and makes it where there isn't a lip for water to puddle on...

Get some painters masking tape, and mask off a neat line 1/4" inside the frame of the window (see photo). Then, using the sealant of your choice (I used Tremco Vulkem 116 gray, bought at a local roofing supply store) run a bead of sealant around the edge of the window. Smooth out with your finger, and use mineral spirits to clean up any extra that squishes out onto the frame. try to feather it barely past the edge of the tape, so when you pull up the tape, you have a very thing edge to the sealant.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:10 PM   #7
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Now it's time to kick back and enjoy those nice clear Vista Views...

As a side note, I didn't figure out much of this by myself. Most all info was compiled from threads and posts by Zeppelinium and Andy. Huge thanks to those guys.

On the Panama Red's Budweiser Long Neck Difficulty Scale, with one long neck being slightly more difficult than tying your shoes, and ten being a full monty, Panama Red gives this project a "Two Long Necks"...

Hope this helps, holler if you have any questions.
-Red
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:39 PM   #8
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Red,

Thanks for stepping me through this process. I just purchased what I think is the exact same trailer as yourself. However, I didn't read your thread until after I removed one of the vista view windows acrylic interior window. So I think I'm gonna go ahead and remove the rest of them. How does this change the process you laid out? More specifically, I get that the 1/16" strip is pushing the exterior glass against it's outer frame but what is the 3/16" strip doing? Is it in the same place...used the same way or was it used to push the acrylic interior window towards its frame? If so, do I need the 3/16" strip?
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:27 PM   #9
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Red, let me expand on AW's question -- if I understand it, in a cross section, from the outside in, you (when finished) have the newly cleaned aluminum window frame (riveted on the outside), then the 1/16" polyshim as a weatherstrip (and a cushion), then the newly cleaned glass, then the 3/16" polyshim, then the acrylic (interior glass), then the snap ring. Is that right? So I'm guessing there is nothing between the acrylic interior glass and the clip/snap ring?

Thanks for this -- I've got to do it, too. But, I just stand and look at them, think about it... then slide the interior cover down!
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:18 PM   #10
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OilnH2O, You nailed it, shiny clean aluminum, 1/16 inch polyshim butyl rubber, shiny clean glass, 3/16 inch polyshim, plexi, snap ring. Just remember to put the bead of Vulkem around the outside for glazing. I had one finished except for the Vulkem glazing when it started raining (sunshine state my butt) and it didn't leak, but the Vulkem finishes it up nice, and doesn't give the water anywhere to puddle. Probably adds quite a bit of sealing also, just in case the butyl isn't sealed up completely... Go ahead and do 'em. It's night and day difference.

Artwithin, I hope OilnH2O's description cleared it up for you. If not, let me know.
And don't remove them until you have the Polyshim in hand. Allglassparts.com takes around 10 days to get that stuff to me. Mailed from Canadia, don't you know, ey!
-Red
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:38 PM   #11
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Thanks, Red. Maybe I'll make this a winter project -- meaning I can procrastinate all winter and do it next spring! Naw, maybe it means I'll order up the strip - then when it comes, I'll be reminded to try it and be pleasantly surprised. I might make it a local beer, though!

Thanks again for this - I'm sure many others will end up reviewing your work! And, I get that you just built on others, but yours is a good "how to" thread.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:31 PM   #12
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Red,

Thanks for the how-to, I think you have given me the spark needed to do the VVs in my '74 Sov. They look really grungy in an otherwise clean-looking interior.

Question 1: Just to confirm, by removing the snap-ring, and inner plastic window, you were then able to remove the outer glass window, correct?

Question 2: Did you do anything about the pull-down shade for them? Actually, the shade and plastic trim around the window opening in the inner aluminum wall seem to go bad in every mid-'70s Sov that I have seen IRL and on here.

There are a couple of suppliers selling the plastic window trim that goes around the opening, if you bought that, where did you get it and how did it work?

Thanks in advance,

Aage
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:41 AM   #13
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Aage,
Yes, once you pull the snap ring, everything comes into the trailer. I just raised the shade ('cause it would be hard to do with it down ) and didn't worry about the plastic trim. A couple of them were pretty tight squeezing through the plastic trim piece, the other two almost fell out, so be careful and don't drop your glass! I used a knife blade to "ease" the glass through the trim where it was snug. Be very careful prying on the glass. It breaks pretty easy when pryed upon... lessoned I learned on an old car once.

I've only done four of my windows (one stack and three vv's) because I ordered a test sampling of polyshim to start (didn't know exactly what sizes I needed, so I bought one roll of each). Just got the other two rolls of 3/16 and one roll of 1/16 in the mail yesterday. I have now done four windows with just one roll of 1/16 and 3/16. Could probably get three more out of the roll of 1/16, but used up the whole roll of 3/16. So, to do all eight windows, I think you could do it all with two rolls of each. I ordered 3 rolls of 3/16 total, just to give me room for error. 2 rolls of 1/16 is PLENTY...

My plastic is in really good shape for the ones I've done, haven't had to replace any of it. Will address the pull down cover as need arises. I'm still pretty busy with major stuff right now. Only reason I did the VV's and stacks is they were leaking as if they had no glass in them... and it's been one wet summer down here.

OilinH2O,
I'm pretty sure a local brew will work, let me know how it goes. I might try an import this weekend. Will update the thread as work progresses... sorry if I start slurring my typing.

-Red
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:41 AM   #14
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Thanks again, Red, that makes things a lot more clear for me. For some (lucky) reason, my stack windows are all OK, and I only have three VVs, so my projected workload is lighter than yours, fortunately for me.

I do want to clean up the problems with the plastic pans, metal shade sliding part, and the wimpy tracks that probably fell off when the TT was maybe a year old. It was held on by double-sided tape, if you can believe that! Sadly, the pan it all fastens to is buck-riveted through the roof, so it really doesn't sound too interesting for me to do.

Good to hear that the tape supplier is here in Canada,nice to catch a break once in a while! And from what you are saying, I only need one roll of each thickness. Yay.

Thanks again, Red
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