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Old 09-27-2013, 05:23 PM   #1
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1979 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
San Antonio , Texas
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Replacing window gasket

I am in the process of pulling off each window to remove the old rotted gasket and replace with new.
My questions is, how clean does the window frame need to be? The old gasket is a bear to get off in some places and leaves behind some rubber and adhesive. I tried some denatured alcohol and tried scrapping, but it do all that much. Any ideas out there?

Thank you for any help, it is all appreciated!
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Centennial , Colorado
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I just did 4 out of 5 windows on a '79 Excella motorhome. Tried everything but just had to pick all the adhesive and gasket parts out. On the last one I'm going to try a heat gun to see if everything softens up and comes out easier. I actually cleaned everything out about 99% because I didn't want to have to go back and do it all over again. If you try a heat gun let us know how well it works. No adhesive cleaner I tried helped much or at all. Good luck
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:51 PM   #3
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1999 25' Safari
Adair , Oklahoma
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I just finished replacing a window gasket on our 1974 Sovereign and here is how I did it. Hopefully, you have your window on a work bench. I used a wallpaper knife to cut away the old gasket by running it down the sides of the gasket as close to the aluminum frame as possible. This will leave a thin piece of the gasket you will have to remove. I used a "fine" wire wheel on a drill and a Roto Zip on LOW speed along with a scraping tool to remove as much of the rest of the gasket as possible. A Dremel tool would probably work better but I only have the Roto Zip. I used McKanica silicone remover to soften the old yellow adhesive. You can buy this at Ace Hardware and the fine wire wheels at Lowes. Mineral spirits and Paint thinner worked but took a little longer to soften the old adhesive. The wire wheel will leave very small groves in the frame but you will cover those with the new gasket plus they give a rough surface for your new adhesive to stick to. A "fine" wheel will leave smaller groves as opposed to other wheels. I did achieve removing 100% of the old gasket and adhesive. I didn't want to have to do this again as Heirstream said. Here is a pic of the tools I used. The blue wire brush is essential to get the last bits of adhesive off. I had to trim it to a "V" to get all the adhesive off. With the window on a bench it's not as difficult as you might think but it does take some time. Good luck with your project.
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:01 PM   #4
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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takes a bit of elbow grease, we did all of our windows on 72 safari. After we got most of the easy stuff off, we used a plastic bristle brush steel wool and Goo-Gone. Let the GG set for a few minutes then scrub away. Not an easy task but persistence will get it done.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:51 PM   #5
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Thanks gang! I'll get back to it as soon as I can, and then send a report!
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:01 PM   #6
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1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , North Carolina
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I just did this job my rear window last night. After removing most of the seal with a razor blade, I softened up the old seal remnants with brake cleaner (applied with a rag) and then scraped it off with a plastic scraper, which doesn't scrape the aluminum as much. There's a little of the old adhesive left on there, but it's 95% gone. Quite a time-consuming job.

One related question:

Are the window seals supposed to be installed all the way up under the glass bar? All the seals on my trailer are installed like this. For the new seal I just installed, the window doesn't seem to close properly -- it bows out away from the seal, as if it's curved, even though this particular window frame is flat. At its widest point the gap is about 1/8", extremely large.

I'm wondering if installing the seal between the glass bar (at the top of the window) and the frame keeps the hinge from closing all the way and causes this gap? As if the glass is flexing when the window is latched, since the hinge cannot close completely.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:08 PM   #7
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Dremel with flex shaft. Tape around to minimize the "ho-leee shinola" moments.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:04 PM   #8
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WD-40 is my friend! I cut some of the rubber off with a razor blade then used a multi - tool to get most of the rest off. Of course there was still rubber left and LOTS of old yellow adhesive! Using a foam brush, I soaked the leftovers with WD-40...it did an amazing job. There was some scrapping involved, but slow and easy, and I was able to do 3 windows in one day!
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
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1970 27' Overlander
1989 32' Excella
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I've got my back window out and running into same Problem with adhesive and will try some of your ideas.My wire wheel a little course.The d-shaped weather stripping from Lowes only had adhesive on one side and the old on two sides.What kind do I need? Does it need to stick on two sides.Appreciate some advice. thanks
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #10
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You can get scotch-brite "bobs" for your dremel tool at HD or maybe Lowe's. I tried all kinds of things when replacing the gaskets on my 68 and the Dremel with the Scotch-Brite worked best.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:17 PM   #11
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:29 AM   #12
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For best results, in a well vented area, aircraft striper followed by MEK, with the aid of a 3M pad cut into 4" by 4" sections, I find works the best to get down to raw clean aluminum.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retrocar66 View Post
I just did this job my rear window last night. After removing most of the seal with a razor blade, I softened up the old seal remnants with brake cleaner (applied with a rag) and then scraped it off with a plastic scraper, which doesn't scrape the aluminum as much. There's a little of the old adhesive left on there, but it's 95% gone. Quite a time-consuming job.

One related question:

Are the window seals supposed to be installed all the way up under the glass bar? All the seals on my trailer are installed like this. For the new seal I just installed, the window doesn't seem to close properly -- it bows out away from the seal, as if it's curved, even though this particular window frame is flat. At its widest point the gap is about 1/8", extremely large.

I'm wondering if installing the seal between the glass bar (at the top of the window) and the frame keeps the hinge from closing all the way and causes this gap? As if the glass is flexing when the window is latched, since the hinge cannot close completely.
The window gasket for the 66, 67 and 68 Airstreams, is installed in one piece, on both sides and the bottom of the window frame.

It must "NEVER" be installed at the top where the hinge is located.

Andy
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:00 PM   #14
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Does that also apply for a 70 international Andy? If so I will have to remove the gasket from the top before I close it.
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