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Old 06-18-2006, 05:17 PM   #1
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1979 31' Excella 500
Detroit Area , Michigan
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Repairing screens

Where is the best place to buy replacement screen for a 31' 1979 International? I have several windows where the screen is loose at the edges and there isn't enough spare screen to pull in order to put it over and back into the slot. Also do you need to replace the rubber type material that holds the screen in, or can you reuse?

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Old 06-18-2006, 05:21 PM   #2
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1963 26' Overlander
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
Portola Hills , California
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Originally Posted by wacnstac
Where is the best place to buy replacement screen for a 31' 1979 International? I have several windows where the screen is loose at the edges and there isn't enough spare screen to pull in order to put it over and back into the slot. Also do you need to replace the rubber type material that holds the screen in, or can you reuse?
I took all my screens to a local hardware store. ( True Value)
They will make all new screen for my Overlander for just a few dollars each.
I forget the exact amount, but I think it's about $ 12.00 each for a whole new screen. ( new frame and all)
I chose grey nylon screening material, because it does not hold a stretchmark. The aluminum screening material apparently will stay loose once deflected.

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Old 06-18-2006, 06:35 PM   #3
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1998 31' Excella 1000
South Berwick , Maine
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I bought a fabric type screen material that I've only been able to find at WalMart. It is a sun blocking screen which I thought would be good. I used at home for a slider that was south facing and it worked very well. I thought for the trailer it would reduce some of the solar radiation and also afford more privacy. Easy to see out - harder to see in. The front rectangular screen was easy using a splining tool (hardware store/HD). Then I moved on to the curved windows. Nice tight screen until I got around the last corner and the screen creased. Tried and tried again and just couldn't get it to my liking. Took all the frames and my fabric screen to the local hardware store where they did it very reasonably and did a great job. Yes, always use new spline. The paint was flaking off all the frames on the '74, so I sanded the paint off and gave them a brushed aluminum finish. I used new screws with nickel trim washers - very aerospace. There was no rock shield on the '74, so with the bathroom door open, you could see thru the rear window using the TV rearview mirror. Not so any more going thru a double layer of screen fabric.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:52 PM   #4
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1969 27' Overlander
Jackson , Michigan
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Finally something I can reply to I know a little about. (I used to work at a hardware store), Yes you will have to replace the spline, (the rubber part), because it streches out and gets hard with age. I replaced mine with nylon screening which is much easier to put in and comes in both black and grey colors. You can replace your own metal screening but you need to be carefull not to cut the screen when pushing the spline in the channel. You will need a spline tool, (which costs a couple of dollars), spline of the same size as what you take out, (only comes in a couple of sizes and is easy to tell which size), and the screening. If you use metal you will need a utility knife. With nylon a pair of scissors will do. You may need a screw driver to start the spline into the channel. I will address the nylon since I am much better at it. Cut your screen a couple of inches bigger around then the window. Let the screen hang over the edge of the window frame a little. Run the spline tool up the channel carefully on the side you are going to start on. Place the spine in the channel carefully pushing it in with the spline tool. I like to run the spine tool down the channel at least 2 times to get it in tight. Continue around the window being careful to keep the screen square to the frame. Cut the spline when you get around to the end. Cut off excess screening tight to frame being careful not to pull the screen back out. The nylon screen is pretty forgiving if you find you want to pull out the spine and move it over. Metal is not forgiving at all and will be harder to put in by yourself. You can buy both kinds of screen at your local hardware, Lowes, Menards, or Home depot. It took me an afternoon to do all the screens including the vents. But I have done screening before so give yourself plenty of time. You'll do fine. Any more questions feel free to email me.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:58 PM   #5
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1978 31' Excella 500
Venice , California
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No see um

One advantage of black nylon screen is that it tends to disappear because it doesn't reflect light. We did the Excella that way and like it.
"Not all who are laundering are washed" say Bill & Heidi

'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:32 PM   #6
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1977 23' Safari
Hillsboro , Oregon
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Lowes or Home Depot has plenty of this stuff in stock to make this repair. It is rather easy to do once you get into it.
2009 F-350 FX4 Crewcab 4x4 6.4l
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Old 06-19-2006, 07:49 AM   #7
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1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
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On the curved screens, start at the top and then down both sides. Do not pull on the spline as you roll it into the slot. Allow it to relax a little before completing the bottom. On models with thin free standing screens, do not make the screening material too tight as it will bow the aluminum elements. Gray makes it harder to see into the unit. Use alumium on windows near the stove. Do not use aluminum on rear bath windows that are used as fire exits.

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