|
|
11-06-2012, 06:39 PM
|
#121
|
Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
|
Do you have some photos of you putting the tape in the window frame? Did your frame have to be pulled apart at the seams in the middle? Check out this thread and see if the 3D drawings I made are how it all fits?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...s-86615-2.html
Perry
|
|
|
11-06-2012, 06:45 PM
|
#122
|
Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
|
I'll post a pic of that shortly
__________________
As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say. I just watch what they do.
- Andrew Carnegie
|
|
|
11-06-2012, 07:19 PM
|
#123
|
Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
|
The small outer channel (where the guide sticks out) appears to be there to allow water to drain around the window and down to the bottom and out of the weep holes.
__________________
As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say. I just watch what they do.
- Andrew Carnegie
|
|
|
11-06-2012, 09:05 PM
|
#124
|
Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
|
Was it very hard to get the window frames apart?
|
|
|
11-06-2012, 11:35 PM
|
#125
|
Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27
Was it very hard to get the window frames apart?
|
I think I've done six of these and only one was difficult. The square steel bar the slips inside the frame extrusions at the two joints had corroded and become almost one with the aluminum frame. I finally had to hack saw the frame apart at the joint. Usually they come apart using a wooden block and mallet--a few taps and you see the joint start to separate.
Zep
|
|
|
02-07-2013, 03:34 PM
|
#126
|
WBCCI 8562
1975 31' Sovereign
Pelzer
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 225
|
Someday I will get the courage to do my well bubbled double pane windows.
QUESTION, the CRL glazing, what prep work is required to put the window
back together as single pane??? Sealer?? Prelube it??? Any additional filler???
I know Home Depot sells a solvent to remove film from home windows, anyone ever
try it??? Our house has the tint and we needed to replace a couple.
|
|
|
02-07-2013, 03:41 PM
|
#127
|
Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
|
A razor blade will get the old film off.
Perry
|
|
|
04-28-2013, 02:17 PM
|
#128
|
New Member
Thief river falls
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 3
|
How do you get the glass out, do I need to drill all the rivets out from outside the camper?
|
|
|
04-28-2013, 05:01 PM
|
#129
|
Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
|
Go back to page one of this thread and Zep explains how to separate the frame to get the glass out.
Perry
|
|
|
06-17-2013, 07:44 AM
|
#130
|
2 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
Marietta
, 30064
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 59
|
Thanks to everyone's experiences here, I have already made it through two double pane restorations with no problems!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
I think I've done six of these and only one was difficult. The square steel bar the slips inside the frame extrusions at the two joints had corroded and become almost one with the aluminum frame. I finally had to hack saw the frame apart at the joint. Usually they come apart using a wooden block and mallet--a few taps and you see the joint start to separate.
Zep
|
However, I have one stuck steel bar on my third window that I am working on. I was thinking I would "go bigger" with the drill bit on the holes where I drilled out the rivets, figuring a rivet bit must still be in there through the steel bar, holding it all together, but perhaps it's this corrosion instead.
If I take the hack saw approach, after sawing apart the steel bar, what is done to hold the frame halves permanently together upon window frame reassembly?
I haven't seen replacement steel bars for sale, and they seem to be permanently affixed into one half of the window frame (but maybe that's just corrosion too), so a replacement steel bar probably could not be used since the channel is already filled with the old, cut in half, bar, hmmm so maybe that's why I haven't seen any for sale (it just can't be my inability to search the internets!!) anywhere (VTS, ODM, ILRV).
I could get a strip of a thicker gauge aluminum from the hardware store, snip it into shape, and rivet it on the "inside" side of the window frame. I wonder if it would be strong enough, though, to hold the window together for years and years?
The steel bar seems like it can hold a lot more than a little strip of aluminum, and the frame halves do take a LOT of pressure for closing the final quarter inch gap during reinstallation, so I figure it will take a lot of strength to hold them together for the next 30 years.
Maybe I will go thicker and put a metal rod on the interior side of the window frame. If it's relatively flat, the weather stripping ought to work fine glued over the bar. It will be unsightly but the sight will be very unlikely to be seen. The window would have to be open for the bar to be visible, and then you'd have to be looking AT the window frame rather than through the window to notice.
Does that seem like a good or bad idea? Anybody got any other ideas for holding the window frame together if the stuck steel bar is cut in half?
|
|
|
06-18-2013, 04:51 AM
|
#131
|
Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
|
Quote:
...I was thinking I would "go bigger" with the drill bit on the holes where I drilled out the rivets, figuring a rivet bit must still be in there through the steel bar, holding it all together, but perhaps it's this corrosion instead.
|
it is corrosion. I also thought I hadn't quite drilled out the rivets.
Quote:
If I take the hack saw approach, after sawing apart the steel bar, what is done to hold the frame halves permanently together upon window frame reassembly?
|
Rivet a length of "L" channel to the inside face of the frame. You can find this in 1/16 or 1/8 thickness.
Quote:
The steel bar seems like it can hold a lot more than a little strip of aluminum, and the frame halves do take a LOT of pressure for closing the final quarter inch gap during reinstallation, so I figure it will take a lot of strength to hold them together for the next 30 years.
|
That's why you need the "L" channel, not a flat piece of aluminum.
Zep
|
|
|
06-20-2013, 01:34 PM
|
#132
|
WBCCI 8562
1975 31' Sovereign
Pelzer
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 225
|
Hi
Well have to jump in here, get KROIL That stuff loosens any corrosion.
You can find it on line, trick is put it in a hour or two before, then again minutes
before you loosen stuff. Truly save the day on my Airstream. It sits on favorite
shelf next to 3 in 1 and WD40
|
|
|
06-20-2013, 01:36 PM
|
#133
|
WBCCI 8562
1975 31' Sovereign
Pelzer
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 225
|
I would love to see SOMEONE (hey Andy) come out with a kit to do the
double Airstream windows. There has to be many like myself that are "A"
confused by it all, BUT "B" would tackle it with a kit of parts and directions.
|
|
|
06-20-2013, 09:19 PM
|
#134
|
2 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
Marietta
, 30064
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 59
|
Thanks! I have put in an order for a can of Kroil, and if that doesn't do the job, the hack saw will take it apart, and some L Channel will hold it back together. Thank you!!! http://www.airforums.com/forums/imag...lies/smile.gif
|
|
|
06-20-2013, 11:42 PM
|
#135
|
New Member
1976 31' Sovereign
golden
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB
Again thanks to Zep leading the way many people, including myself, have taken the plunge on the double pane windows.
In the post above.. I got the window sealing tape. I thought that it might work instead of going with the plastic gasket.
It is the same width of the plastic gasket.
It is thicker (1/8) than the plastic gasket.
It's texture.. it feels a lot like rubber electrical tape (it will stretch).
With the 3/16 shimmed butyl tape (Canadian source in Panama Red's vista thread sells by the roll but shipping is $). Everything fit snugly.
Same as Zep I got the frame hammered back on up to the last 1/2 inch or so. The bar clamps (Harbor Freight) finished squeezing it together very nicely.
The tape is made to trim the excess around the frame after installation.
The tint I got off ebay. 24" by 50' 35% ceramic reflective Charcoal Gray for about $60.
|
Hi DanielB, I know it was quite a while ago when you tackled your double paned wing windows but I am ordering material for the project and I am trying to wrap my head around your suggestion to purchase the 1/16'' sealstrip glass setting tape... you also said it was the same width as the plastic gasket. It just appears to be a roll of tape in the link I have provided. Is this the same stuff? How does it replace the gasket? Also can anyone please confirm what width the opening of the gasket needs to be and what width the opening of the frame is? Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE A4262 CRL 1/16" Sealstrip Glass Setting Tape: Automotive
thanks in advance for any and all help!
Cheers!
|
|
|
06-27-2013, 05:42 PM
|
#136
|
2 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
Marietta
, 30064
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 59
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Pima
Hi
Well have to jump in here, get KROIL That stuff loosens any corrosion.
You can find it on line, trick is put it in a hour or two before, then again minutes
before you loosen stuff. Truly save the day on my Airstream. It sits on favorite
shelf next to 3 in 1 and WD40
|
Thank you Jim in Pima! My can oil Kroil arrived Tuesday. Kroil worked where the rubber mallet failed, Liquid Wrench failed, and even a six foot pry bar with the window nailed to a board failed. I Kroiled the stuck bar, waited an hour or so and proceeded with the rubber mallet, but to no avail. I Kroiled it some more, waited another hour or so, still no luck. Yesterday I set the window up on one side and poured Kroil into the drain hole that is just "up" from the metal bar ("up" when the window is on its side, letting gravity and time and Kroil do my dirty work for me) and left it until tonight. Tonight, the frame halves popped apart as if they were never even stuck to begin with. So I have another story of unsticking the window frame halves: When the above referenced window frame was found to be stuck, I moved along to my window #4 of 4 that I needed to de-tint. It was stuck too! Repeated whacks with the rubber mallet directly on the area of the metal bar actually unstuck window #4. Normally when trying to separate the frame halves I had been using a "separation swing" in either outward direction, hitting either latch frame. I guess hitting directly on the metal bar area knocked the corrosion loose. What luck! Now I just need to replace my rubber mallet. It is shredded from hitting the latch frame. I literally smelled burning rubber from all the hard hits. Literally, not figuratively. It smelled like a kid driving a V8. I was worried about breaking the panes with the hits, but all four windows held up!
|
|
|
08-19-2013, 07:28 AM
|
#137
|
2 Rivet Member
1978 25' Tradewind
1979 28' Airstream Excella 28
Mountain Home
, Arkansas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 22
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joebanjo
|
Are you saying that it's as easy as buying this gasket, separating the panes then re-installing a single pane into the dual pane frame? Sounds to good to be true. - Ed Normandy
|
|
|
08-20-2013, 03:02 PM
|
#138
|
2 Rivet Member
1976 29' Ambassador
Wichita
, Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 68
|
Hey Ed
The new gasket is simply half the equation. The other half is fabricating a spacer from 3/8" x 3/8" square aluminum rod to be used as a channel filler. You see...when you remove the old double pane glass assembly from the the sash frame, it's thickness is over half an inch. The channel in the sash is designed to accommodate that double thickness of glass and dead air space between the panes. What I did was to take square aluminum rod stock,( available at many lumber yards and hardware stores) and make a channel filler, mill it from 3/8" (.375") to .290" on one edge (leaving a rod .375" x .290") useing a drill press, and a rotary file to duplicate the channel space a single wall sash would have. Fabricate the rod to conform to the channel, using some homemade patterns made from pine 1"x 4" stock ( used to duplicate the radius of the corners of the sash) and carefully fit the narrowed and bent pieces into the sash channel, to effectively narrow the channel to accommodate a single pane of glass with a new gasket.The process involves 4 pieces, one for each corner of the sash. It sounds like a great deal of work, but when Airstream wants to charge you over $450.00 for one new sash, and your trailer has 6 fogged windows, it starts making sense to fix your old ones. I made the boneheaded mistake of buying 3 new sashes, installing them, and then experimented with my take offs. To my dismay, the process is amazingly simple, and I rebuilt all my old windows in 4 days. Now...I have 3 extra windows for my Airstream, and the know how to rebuild them, as I saved the jigs for future use. Too bad you don't live a little closer, I could walk you through it...:-)
|
|
|
12-29-2013, 10:37 AM
|
#139
|
2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Excella 500
Longview
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 25
|
Has anyone tried foam core butyl tape in place of the rod spaced butyl? I'm wondering if the compressibility would make frame reassembly easier?
|
|
|
04-08-2014, 10:07 PM
|
#140
|
3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 142
|
Ok so great advice and im gonna practice on one window that previous owner replaced.I'm gonna do the step by step and ill let you know what's the outcome...now my door window last pic has lots of rivets so I want too know can I use a glass tool cutter to go around edge then tap and it could come off whole? Are they solid glass or have that protection.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Airstream Forums mobile app
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|