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Old 01-29-2016, 07:55 AM   #169
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1975 31' Sovereign
North Fort Myers , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennesseeTin View Post
Vintage Trailer Supply has PolyShim II in stock. Here's my order details.

Code Item Qty Price Grand Total

VTS-634L Polyshim II Butyl Tape - 3/16" Thick X 25 Feet

$19.00


I'm rebuilding the double pane wing windows on my 75 Sovereign this weekend. Will post results.
They were out of stock before the holidays and said they didn't know if they were going to restock them?!
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Old 01-29-2016, 08:31 AM   #170
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Ive bought it from them last year works great just like the original
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:18 AM   #171
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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I used MS20470A4-4 rivers. I countersunk the window frame (seal side) then shot the rivets with the buck tail forming in the countersink. After all rivets are shot (installing the hinge) sand the bucktails flush. Now the seal will set flush with the frame and you won't have interference problems
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Old 01-29-2016, 03:16 PM   #172
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Rivets, not rivers, small keypad on phone
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Old 09-24-2016, 02:40 AM   #173
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Hi I've heard of yalls process in separating the two glasses...so i saw this heat wire cutter for Styrofoam and its just a long solid thin rod that heats electricly to cut out shapes from foam and does a sweet clean cut. So what about using it to cut thru putty its a faster way to go around edges. Just a thought i might just try it i have a extra spare window and ill video it.
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:34 PM   #174
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ozark , Missouri
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Can't wait to see the results!
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:05 AM   #175
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1975 31' Sovereign
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I've redone all six of my curved side Windows. For all the messing around making a heated wire (which I made one using a 12V battery,piano wire, wooden dowel rods and a 12v dimmer. Go to a junk yard and get one from the dashboard either lights or wiper variable current control.
This worked but it's slow,smelly and messy. I found Louie ARMSTRONG and a fresh utility knife shove the blade through the putty that's between the two panes. Keep it in there and pulling/cutting through the putty while inserting wood shims(buy a package at Homo Depot) as you can. You must go all the way around before it separates completely using shims. If you don't put in shims it will stick back together. Also as it appears you could just lift the glass off of the old putty remember , IF YOU BREAK THE GLASS, GOOD LUCK! The cost can be as much as $500 to find and buy a replacement.
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:11 AM   #176
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by TLBIJOU View Post
They were out of stock before the holidays and said they didn't know if they were going to restock them?!
You can buy the shimstock by the roll from All GLASS Parts in Canada. Remember if you buy on line the prices are Canadian. Also make sure you buy everything you need because it takes a while and cost additional export fees.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:00 AM   #177
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Thanks Tlbijou
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:17 PM   #178
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1977 31' Excella 500
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Probaby because the '73 design was even worse that the '75 design! If you look back at the Pics in my Full Monte thread, you'll notice that the frames are basically "negatives" of the '75.

In the '73, the main window frame is buck riveted to the shell. The difference is that the inner glass sits in this part of the frame. The outer glass sits in its own frame that is then screwd to the main frame from the inside of the camper. Does that make sense?

Those damn screws (natually, NOT stainless) are what gave me so much grief. They were rusted and in at least one case, improperly installed (that's what caused me to accidnetally break one of the windows).

Jim
I know this is a super old thread, this is as far as I've gotten. I have a 73' Excella, with the nasty shredded film between all the windows. Could you point me in the right direction? I'm trying to formulate a plan of attack < I was goin g to do the windows later on, but it sounds like I'll have to do with the inner skins off?
Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:40 PM   #179
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Vicksburg , Mississippi
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I know this is a super old thread, this is as far as I've gotten. I have a 73' Excella, with the nasty shredded film between all the windows. Could you point me in the right direction? I'm trying to formulate a plan of attack < I was goin g to do the windows later on, but it sounds like I'll have to do with the inner skins off?
Thanks!
Jim, you don't have to remove skins if you have the same windows that I do, we have same model.
The inner window fits in the outer window and is held in by some screws along edge. It's easy to remove entire hinged window: remove the nutcaps on the two rods that hold up the window and disconnect them from window. Open window past were the rods normally stop it and windows will drop out. They use same system of hinge that your refrigerator access door does.
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:00 PM   #180
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1977 31' Excella 500
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Jim, you don't have to remove skins if you have the same windows that I do, we have same model.
The inner window fits in the outer window and is held in by some screws along edge. It's easy to remove entire hinged window: remove the nutcaps on the two rods that hold up the window and disconnect them from window. Open window past were the rods normally stop it and windows will drop out. They use same system of hinge that your refrigerator access door does.
Thanks, I'll have a look this weekend
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:57 PM   #181
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Guys I have a question about re-riveting the windows after reassembly. Vintage trailer supply sells tubular rivers for airstream windows billed as 'repairs to 1969 plus windows" It appears you then strike the tail with a hand rivet clincher on an anvil. Is this the best approach? I don't have a hand squeezer so just seeing if I can save $100. Thoughts? If yes to the hand squeezer, what size yoke? Thanks!
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:31 AM   #182
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What size holes are in the splice?
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