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Old 12-23-2016, 10:57 PM   #181
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Guys I have a question about re-riveting the windows after reassembly. Vintage trailer supply sells tubular rivers for airstream windows billed as 'repairs to 1969 plus windows" It appears you then strike the tail with a hand rivet clincher on an anvil. Is this the best approach? I don't have a hand squeezer so just seeing if I can save $100. Thoughts? If yes to the hand squeezer, what size yoke? Thanks!
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Old 12-24-2016, 08:31 AM   #182
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What size holes are in the splice?
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Old 12-24-2016, 01:53 PM   #183
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VTS is selling 1/8 tubulars and from what I have read the 4 rivets on the window and all the ones holding the upper hinge on are all 1/8.
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:38 PM   #184
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Do you have a buck really river gun, because you can use standard universal head rivets for all everything. You can also counter sink the river holes on the window frame so that the buck tails are flush
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:13 PM   #185
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Yes I have a rivet gun and bucking bar, just worried about breaking the glass bucking the rivets in. Thoughts?
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:58 AM   #186
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I did some both ways when I rebuilt my windows--both gun (with bucking bar) and squeezer. You do have a little more control using the squeezer, but the gun worked fine--you just have to be careful and have a light touch, and perhaps support the window itself with a large enough pad or towel to give it some cushion. I would use the gun again.
You might want to practice on a similarly shaped piece of aluminum first.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:00 AM   #187
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I bought a squeezer from Brown Tool Co..

I can't really imagine using a hammer that close to the glass. I bought the solid rivets from Airstream Supply. This worked very well for the hinge. However, the 4 rivets that hold the frame together they weren't long enough so I used standard rivets and filled with aluminum caulking. It worked great. I am about half done doing all the windows which is a chore on a 31 footer. I'm pulling all the double panes apart to remove the Mylar between the panes. Good luck, any questions please ask.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:34 AM   #188
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Hey guys, Im over here in the UK and have two windows (either side of my door) to repair on a 1984 Limited due to condensation and im struggling to find a supplier here of the correct u channel gaskets and butyl anyone able to help me on here......this is the best post ive found on here to help me so I thought Id jump on the band wagon.

Thanks

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Old 02-16-2017, 03:45 AM   #189
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think ive just found my saviour........

http://www.crlaurence.co.uk/crlapps/...&ModelID=29515

http://www.crlaurence.co.uk/crlapps/...8&ModelID=4084
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:26 AM   #190
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Thanks for the info Tommie! I'm just scratching the surface on this myself.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:28 AM   #191
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It seems like you guys are using the same stuff as a seal between the panes that Airstream uses and it failed.

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Old 02-18-2017, 11:14 AM   #192
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After seeing other threads on this subject, and after a year of trepidation, I'm going to try to get through this from start to finish, with photos.

THE PROBLEM: Afte a zillion years, the solar film applied to the inner side of the outer pane of glass starts to craze and bubble. Here's a detail how mine have bubbled in the silvered area. The rest of the film looks like it has long wrinkles.

Attachment 48719

All mine are in bad shape, but from what I can tell, the film was two-tone, with a silver component along the top edge. You can see the effect of this along the left edge (the top edge of the window when installed) in the photo here.

Attachment 48720

On inspection of the frame, you can see 4 rivets holding the frame together and a row of about 8 rivets holding the hinge piece at the top edge. All of these must be drilled out (well, you could drill out only the 4-5 at one end of the hinge piece and that would allow the two sides of the frame to come apart, up to you). The rivets have very small heads, which lead me to believe they were 3/32, but in fact they are 1/8 and soft. It is easier to drill the hinge rivets out from the back side, which requires removing the weather striping in that area. I was amazed at the strength of the glue and rubber after 30 years. It was compressed, but not cracked at all.

Attachment 48729

Once you get the rivets out, you can slide the frame off with a mallet and wood block. I made this a little easier by using the wood block and mallet to spread the frame from the top and bottom edges a little, before tapping on the end to slide each piece off. Note the slim square cross section steel bar sticking out of the frame to the right of the mallet handle. Two of these are what holds the frame together and prevents the top and bottom edges from bowing out away from the glass edge.

Attachment 48721

Once you get the frame pieces off, you can remove the U-shaped rubber gasket that runs in one piece around the glass. What you find are the two pieces of glass "glued" together with something resembling the butyl "plumber's putty" that's widely used to install sinks today. There is also a silver metalic tape that overlaps the glass by about 1/8" on both sides. Presumably, this kept the putty from sticking to the rubber gasket, or maybe was just a feature to keep workers' hands from getting all gooked up. Anyway, you have to cut this all the way around, as it still can apply a lot of tension between the two sheets of glass.

Attachment 48722

NOW FOR THE STUPID PART! Don't use a common screwdriver in a twisting motion to get the two sheets of glass apart. CRACK, SHATTER! I was about 90% done and broke the inner glass (all the while thinking, jees, this is stupid). I'll fix it with lexan, no problem, but still totally stupid. I recommend (first) go slower and have some patience and (second) use a few slim wood wedges or something equally soft.

The film comes off pretty quickly. If you use a scraper, be sure to use steel, not carbide, which will surely scratch the glass. The silvered area came off immediately, but the non-silvered part of the film required some water to get the glue off. (the glue for these solar films is water soluble, but you have to scratch off the film in order to get the water on the glue)

Attachment 48723

Next step is to order the U-shaped gasket material, get the replacement piece of lexan, and find out what the putty is between the two sheets. I know I've seen the gasket material mentioned on another thread on this same topic, but I don't have a clue about the putty. I'm debating reinstalling a new sheet of solar film. Anyone have thoughts on this?

For info, the double glass panel was made up of 0.152" outer glass, 0.2" putty, and 0.122" inner glass. The solar film thickness is negligable. Total time to this point (including sweeping up the broken glass), 1.5 hours.

Zep
This was awsome[emoji4]
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:38 PM   #193
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It seems like you guys are using the same stuff as a seal between the panes that Airstream uses and it failed.

Perry
Well since when I last posted I've found this company over here in the U.K. Www.edgetechig.co.uk they've sent me some samples of their products and they look promising!


However mate, if all my windows are fine other than two of them that have condensation then the same product airstream used may not be such a bad option eh??
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:42 PM   #194
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Hey Stephanie I'm just waiting for my Olympic rivets and rivet removing tool to start my job.....so stay tuned....that or follow my FB group page as I'm charting my renovation here...https://www.facebook.com/groups/302749800085886/
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:57 AM   #195
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I'm at a loss as to why you are waiting for Olympic rivets. The windows use nothing but solid buck rivets
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:47 AM   #196
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Beccause I dont have a buck riveting gun and I am working on my own so its easier to use, oh plus my windows are not installed with Buck Rivets anyhow!
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:03 PM   #197
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Yeah.... still olympics are not going to work for you here, their tails are very bulky and will interfere with your seal, etc. it's good to have some olympics around though for certain tasks especially non load bearing exterior work.
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:54 AM   #198
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Yay windows are out time to dismantle....my window have little white disc spacers think I might be able to reuse them.....Time to get on...
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:35 AM   #199
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Looks like I've got to drill out these what appears to be some sort of self tapping nails or something...

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Old 02-26-2017, 01:42 PM   #200
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