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Old 02-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #127
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A razor blade will get the old film off.

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Old 04-28-2013, 03:17 PM   #128
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How do you get the glass out, do I need to drill all the rivets out from outside the camper?
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #129
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Go back to page one of this thread and Zep explains how to separate the frame to get the glass out.

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Old 06-17-2013, 08:44 AM   #130
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Thanks to everyone's experiences here, I have already made it through two double pane restorations with no problems!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
I think I've done six of these and only one was difficult. The square steel bar the slips inside the frame extrusions at the two joints had corroded and become almost one with the aluminum frame. I finally had to hack saw the frame apart at the joint. Usually they come apart using a wooden block and mallet--a few taps and you see the joint start to separate.

Zep
However, I have one stuck steel bar on my third window that I am working on. I was thinking I would "go bigger" with the drill bit on the holes where I drilled out the rivets, figuring a rivet bit must still be in there through the steel bar, holding it all together, but perhaps it's this corrosion instead.

If I take the hack saw approach, after sawing apart the steel bar, what is done to hold the frame halves permanently together upon window frame reassembly?

I haven't seen replacement steel bars for sale, and they seem to be permanently affixed into one half of the window frame (but maybe that's just corrosion too), so a replacement steel bar probably could not be used since the channel is already filled with the old, cut in half, bar, hmmm so maybe that's why I haven't seen any for sale (it just can't be my inability to search the internets!!) anywhere (VTS, ODM, ILRV).

I could get a strip of a thicker gauge aluminum from the hardware store, snip it into shape, and rivet it on the "inside" side of the window frame. I wonder if it would be strong enough, though, to hold the window together for years and years?

The steel bar seems like it can hold a lot more than a little strip of aluminum, and the frame halves do take a LOT of pressure for closing the final quarter inch gap during reinstallation, so I figure it will take a lot of strength to hold them together for the next 30 years.

Maybe I will go thicker and put a metal rod on the interior side of the window frame. If it's relatively flat, the weather stripping ought to work fine glued over the bar. It will be unsightly but the sight will be very unlikely to be seen. The window would have to be open for the bar to be visible, and then you'd have to be looking AT the window frame rather than through the window to notice.

Does that seem like a good or bad idea? Anybody got any other ideas for holding the window frame together if the stuck steel bar is cut in half?
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:51 AM   #131
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Quote:
...I was thinking I would "go bigger" with the drill bit on the holes where I drilled out the rivets, figuring a rivet bit must still be in there through the steel bar, holding it all together, but perhaps it's this corrosion instead.
it is corrosion. I also thought I hadn't quite drilled out the rivets.

Quote:
If I take the hack saw approach, after sawing apart the steel bar, what is done to hold the frame halves permanently together upon window frame reassembly?
Rivet a length of "L" channel to the inside face of the frame. You can find this in 1/16 or 1/8 thickness.

Quote:
The steel bar seems like it can hold a lot more than a little strip of aluminum, and the frame halves do take a LOT of pressure for closing the final quarter inch gap during reinstallation, so I figure it will take a lot of strength to hold them together for the next 30 years.
That's why you need the "L" channel, not a flat piece of aluminum.


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Old 06-20-2013, 02:34 PM   #132
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Hi
Well have to jump in here, get KROIL That stuff loosens any corrosion.
You can find it on line, trick is put it in a hour or two before, then again minutes
before you loosen stuff. Truly save the day on my Airstream. It sits on favorite
shelf next to 3 in 1 and WD40
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:36 PM   #133
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I would love to see SOMEONE (hey Andy) come out with a kit to do the
double Airstream windows. There has to be many like myself that are "A"
confused by it all, BUT "B" would tackle it with a kit of parts and directions.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:19 PM   #134
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Thanks! I have put in an order for a can of Kroil, and if that doesn't do the job, the hack saw will take it apart, and some L Channel will hold it back together. Thank you!!! http://www.airforums.com/forums/imag...lies/smile.gif
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:42 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
Again thanks to Zep leading the way many people, including myself, have taken the plunge on the double pane windows.

In the post above.. I got the window sealing tape. I thought that it might work instead of going with the plastic gasket.

It is the same width of the plastic gasket.
It is thicker (1/8) than the plastic gasket.
It's texture.. it feels a lot like rubber electrical tape (it will stretch).

With the 3/16 shimmed butyl tape (Canadian source in Panama Red's vista thread sells by the roll but shipping is $). Everything fit snugly.

Same as Zep I got the frame hammered back on up to the last 1/2 inch or so. The bar clamps (Harbor Freight) finished squeezing it together very nicely.

The tape is made to trim the excess around the frame after installation.

The tint I got off ebay. 24" by 50' 35% ceramic reflective Charcoal Gray for about $60.
Hi DanielB, I know it was quite a while ago when you tackled your double paned wing windows but I am ordering material for the project and I am trying to wrap my head around your suggestion to purchase the 1/16'' sealstrip glass setting tape... you also said it was the same width as the plastic gasket. It just appears to be a roll of tape in the link I have provided. Is this the same stuff? How does it replace the gasket? Also can anyone please confirm what width the opening of the gasket needs to be and what width the opening of the frame is? Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE A4262 CRL 1/16" Sealstrip Glass Setting Tape: Automotive

thanks in advance for any and all help!
Cheers!
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Pima View Post
Hi
Well have to jump in here, get KROIL That stuff loosens any corrosion.
You can find it on line, trick is put it in a hour or two before, then again minutes
before you loosen stuff. Truly save the day on my Airstream. It sits on favorite
shelf next to 3 in 1 and WD40
Thank you Jim in Pima! My can oil Kroil arrived Tuesday. Kroil worked where the rubber mallet failed, Liquid Wrench failed, and even a six foot pry bar with the window nailed to a board failed. I Kroiled the stuck bar, waited an hour or so and proceeded with the rubber mallet, but to no avail. I Kroiled it some more, waited another hour or so, still no luck. Yesterday I set the window up on one side and poured Kroil into the drain hole that is just "up" from the metal bar ("up" when the window is on its side, letting gravity and time and Kroil do my dirty work for me) and left it until tonight. Tonight, the frame halves popped apart as if they were never even stuck to begin with. So I have another story of unsticking the window frame halves: When the above referenced window frame was found to be stuck, I moved along to my window #4 of 4 that I needed to de-tint. It was stuck too! Repeated whacks with the rubber mallet directly on the area of the metal bar actually unstuck window #4. Normally when trying to separate the frame halves I had been using a "separation swing" in either outward direction, hitting either latch frame. I guess hitting directly on the metal bar area knocked the corrosion loose. What luck! Now I just need to replace my rubber mallet. It is shredded from hitting the latch frame. I literally smelled burning rubber from all the hard hits. Literally, not figuratively. It smelled like a kid driving a V8. I was worried about breaking the panes with the hits, but all four windows held up!
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:28 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joebanjo View Post
I rebuilt all my double panes windows to new single pane configuration and used new "U" gasket material available from
C.R. Laurence CRL Glazing Vinyl; 1/2" Channel Depth 9/64" to 11/64" Metal Opening - 100 ft Roll | GC725C

Mike
Are you saying that it's as easy as buying this gasket, separating the panes then re-installing a single pane into the dual pane frame? Sounds to good to be true. - Ed Normandy
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:02 PM   #138
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Hey Ed

The new gasket is simply half the equation. The other half is fabricating a spacer from 3/8" x 3/8" square aluminum rod to be used as a channel filler. You see...when you remove the old double pane glass assembly from the the sash frame, it's thickness is over half an inch. The channel in the sash is designed to accommodate that double thickness of glass and dead air space between the panes. What I did was to take square aluminum rod stock,( available at many lumber yards and hardware stores) and make a channel filler, mill it from 3/8" (.375") to .290" on one edge (leaving a rod .375" x .290") useing a drill press, and a rotary file to duplicate the channel space a single wall sash would have. Fabricate the rod to conform to the channel, using some homemade patterns made from pine 1"x 4" stock ( used to duplicate the radius of the corners of the sash) and carefully fit the narrowed and bent pieces into the sash channel, to effectively narrow the channel to accommodate a single pane of glass with a new gasket.The process involves 4 pieces, one for each corner of the sash. It sounds like a great deal of work, but when Airstream wants to charge you over $450.00 for one new sash, and your trailer has 6 fogged windows, it starts making sense to fix your old ones. I made the boneheaded mistake of buying 3 new sashes, installing them, and then experimented with my take offs. To my dismay, the process is amazingly simple, and I rebuilt all my old windows in 4 days. Now...I have 3 extra windows for my Airstream, and the know how to rebuild them, as I saved the jigs for future use. Too bad you don't live a little closer, I could walk you through it...:-)
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:37 AM   #139
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Has anyone tried foam core butyl tape in place of the rod spaced butyl? I'm wondering if the compressibility would make frame reassembly easier?
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:07 PM   #140
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Ok so great advice and im gonna practice on one window that previous owner replaced.I'm gonna do the step by step and ill let you know what's the outcome...now my door window last pic has lots of rivets so I want too know can I use a glass tool cutter to go around edge then tap and it could come off whole? Are they solid glass or have that protection.

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