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Old 07-26-2010, 05:31 PM   #1
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Removing Windows from "60" Overlander

Can anyone give me the procedure to remove the windows in our "60" Overlander. I am assuming I need them off to repair them. What is used around window/frame on the outside. Almost all of the windows on this AS have tons of silicone heaped in the corners. Is there gasket material that goes inside the frame? Here's what I have to deal with...looks like a source of water to me... Thanks for the help!

Bob
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:40 PM   #2
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Vintage Trailer Supply has the gaskets you need.
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Old 07-28-2010, 04:55 AM   #3
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I understand that you have the same windows as our '65. 63air is right -- VTS has them. We used VTS-113X Bulb Seal and VTS-307X glazing strip.

You should find a small screw in the center of the top hinge. Mine were steel, in contact with the aluminum, so they need a bit of penetrating oil or liquid wrench. Remove this screw and you can open the window, remove the cranks, then slide it sideways out of the hinge track.
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:13 AM   #4
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Thanks for the prompt replies. That is exactly the information I needed. Will contact VTS for the gaskets and glazing strips.

Bob
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:55 AM   #5
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whoa.... 1965 and 1960 do not have the same windows. They are actually very different and use none of the same gaskets. The style you have was used from 1959- 1961. I think it is called the clear view, but do not hold me to it. To remove them is easy. Unscrew that center screw mentioned. Undo the window cranks. Lift the window at a right angle to the trailer and pull the lifter arms out of the c track. Undo the end of the eyebrow and bend it up. Now put the window at 90 degrees and slide it out. Reverse to install. Make sure to use vulkem when putting the eyebrow back down. I am too lazy to look, but somewhere on my Frank's Trailer Works Blog is a step by step tutorial on how to replace the glass and seals and gaskets. The window shown is a 1961-1963 mark 12 window, but the technique is all the same. My advice is to make sure everything is 100% clean before putting it back. Strive for virgin metal with zero silicone, adhesive, or caulk present. One little grain of old silicone will keep the gasket from seating properly.
Call VTS and speak to someone about what year you have to get all the proper styles before placing the order.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:34 PM   #6
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Thanks Frank...you are right about the different windows. Our "60" has the Clearview windows and they use a different rubber bead to assist in holding the glass in place. Is there a trick to getting the center screw out. Access to this screw is blocked unless the eyebrow is removed...which I really do not want to do!

Bob
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:59 AM   #7
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long skinny small screw driver. Good luck getting it back in....
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:14 PM   #8
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If you have the Mark 12 windows , you can replace all the gaskets without removing the windows: don't make extra work for yourself. If you need any new operators I believe both Inland and VTS have them , and again , you don't need to remove windows to replace them.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:24 AM   #9
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It's true, then, that you don't use any kind of sealant when replacing the glazing strips?
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:02 AM   #10
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1960 Overlander window seals...

Addendum: Why can't you use glazing compound used on aluminum windows instead of rubber glazing strips? And what's up with the strip of some kind of adhesive (double-sided tape or bead of some kind of black adhesive that' under the edge off the glass all around the perimeter of the pane that actually holds the pane to the window frame? The glazing strips don't seem to have any function in holding the pane to the window frame, but of course mine are all shrunken.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:03 PM   #11
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most people try to return things to the original state. Glazing compound was never used. Butyl tape and rubber gaskets were.
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