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Old 05-04-2007, 10:20 AM   #15
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Laquer thinner is always my last try, and should be my first.

May want to see what it does to clear coat.
If you work fast, it may not melt.

Oh...good story!
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
Got the Goo Gone. Not much help.
Got some Goof Off. Same thing.
Got out the old Bix paint remover. Nada.
As I said before, heat gun. Nope.
Applied everything with some elbow grease and Scotchbrite. Zip.

You can see the yellowed paper/foam stuff in the photos above. When you scrape it down to the last layer, it seems like the hardest laquered paper. Very smooth, so smooth and hard that Scothbrite doesn't seem to be able to get a bite on it.

I'm reluctant to get out the grinder. Maybe just get it down as much as possible and then Proseal it?

Help! Zep
One last resort. Diesel fuel or Kerosene. They evaporate more slowly than gasoline, acetone, laquer thinner, even mineral spirits. You can also try a cookie wheel in an angle grinder, they are available in different grades of coarseness.
Other than that, a packet of plastic razor blades is $.79 at Napa, but man is it slow going.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:46 AM   #17
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Try this stuff - any auto parts store. Apply it very wet and let it set till dry - do that twice. (Yeah I know instructions on the can say .... blah.... blah... blah...). Then with a scrap of rough cotton towel wet it again and scrub. Worked well for us on various adhesives we were try to clean up - including window/door seal adhesive.

Good Luck...

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Old 05-29-2007, 12:51 PM   #18
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weather delays!

Spring has sprung around, but sort of now and then, interspersed with winter. And if it wasn't winter, it was rain--not much, but enough to keep me from making progress. Here's two examples from April and May...

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Aerowood came down a couple weeks ago and helped me buck the patches in. By the way, it's not that hard! I like the look and really like the lack of leaks!

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This was a first pass polish with F9--the patches were second hand sheets with a few scratches and the shell has a lot of pitting. Note the aft large window--it's a single pane that's in place of the double pane, in anticipation of taking the double pane apart and fixing the solar film bubbles that you can see in the forward window.

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The new rivets are 5/32" instead of 1/8", but true to Aerowood's word, they look identical. Maybe you can see the very small flat spot at the crown of the new rives.

Next task is getting the inside insulated and the skins back on.

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Old 05-29-2007, 01:30 PM   #19
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Did the new rivets come with a flat spot?
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM
Did the new rivets come with a flat spot?
Yes. Not really noticeable.

Your vista views are packed up, maybe I'll get them out tomorrow.

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Old 05-29-2007, 03:36 PM   #21
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I wonder if there's enough meat to use an Olympic cutter on?
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:32 AM   #22
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Project done--Yay!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM
I wonder if there's enough meat to use an Olympic cutter on?
Hardly worth it, in my opinion. I think a couple passes with the polisher and the flat spot won't have noticeable edges.

Finishing up on the inside was conceptually easy, but turned out to be both time-consuming and a tarbaby. Glueing the foil to the outer skin taught me something about the tight space above the opening (since I didn't un-rivet far enough along the length to allow the skin to flop free).

First step was covering the rivets with the polyurethane glue just in case there is a loose rivet that might leak. You can see the difference between th cheaper yelllowish poly glue and the gray Vulkem that is coming through the old rivet holes. There is one uncovered rivet on the right.

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Second step was applying a 1/4" standoff made from car gasket material. This is available at Home Depot and is fairly dense with a very aggressive adhesive. I cut it in half lengthways and that seemed to still provide sufficient surface for the adhesive to grip the skin. You see the first two strips here, but I also applied a bottom and top strip, as well as one along the stringers on each side. The spacing is about 1 foot. This seemed too far apart, based on how the bubble foil feels when it's on the roll, but after installation it seemed much more rigid.

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Step three was glueing the foil in. I tried to apply the glue to the gasket material, but couldn't reach up to the top. Tried to apply it to the back of the foil, but found out that there was no way to then insert it without dragging the glue all over the place. It was just the pits. I have no recommendations (except take the skin completely down, but that would required taking the upper cabinets down, which I was not willing to do). Note that the foil is cut 2" wider than the spacing between the ribs, allowing a 1" edge to be folded along the rib and provide a wide glueing area. I'm sure the foil will be very stable.

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The glass wool was stripped in 1-1/4" layers off a sheet of 6" thick batting. It looks thicker than that in the photos, but it's bulging out due to gravity. I put a couple lines of glue on the foil and on the outside of the inner skin to hold the insulation in place over the coming years of road vibrations.

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The next step was cutting the old sliding panels to a shape approximating the curved ends of the window frames, then fitting them and rivetting them in. Yeah for Clecos! The discoloration wouldn't come off--maybe I'll get used to the stain or maybe I'll be calling Blue Highway Lady for painting advice. I didn't use any Vulkem to seal the patches--if there are future leaks, I want them to com out of the skin as high as possible, plus the patches are on fairly tight. I took the time to deburr the holes by using a larger drill bit twirled by hand. You can see the small cone made in the vinyl, which assures that a shard of aluminum isn't hiding in it. It's probably not entirely necessary (this isn't an airplane) due to the vinyl, which acts as a cushion, but it makes me feel better.

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You can see a lighter band of skin around the patches. This is from cleaning the surface with TSP. The entire shell will be cleaned later, but I just couldn't stand the greasy feel while I was working on the patches. I learned something from my last cleaning--don't spray the TSP (you'll be hacking your lungs out for a couple of days). Just put it on with a wet piece of Scotch Brite and some moderately aggressive rubbing--wear goggles and gloves!

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Zep
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:39 PM   #23
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Wow!

I really like it! The ouside especially looks perfectly natural. I did not think it would.

If you are doing a Southwest Theme in the trailer, then a little faux adobe paint job would look nice in the front part of the trailer with the base color very similar the the color of the vinyl.
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Old 09-28-2008, 04:42 PM   #24
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I've gotten back to the Overlander for additional window mods--taking out the slit windows below the main windows (what are those things called?).

I used Brazier rivets on the street side to keep the rivet appearance the same as the existing rivets in the door frame.

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On the street side I used 1/8" Universal head rivets. On consideration, I may go back and use 5/32" Universal heads in order to get the head diameters to be more similar.

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I'll never get my 70s models to look like they came from the 60s, but I will get the leaks under control and make it easier to install blinds!

Zep
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:56 PM   #25
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Hey, Guys, has anyone tried repairing the vista view window with a new gasket of some sort and making it leak proof? I remembered reading on this subject in the past but cannot remember where I picked up the info. are what all the details were. I wish I could because I need to repair mine.
Got any Ideas on the subject?
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:45 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLLong View Post
Hey, Guys, has anyone tried repairing the vista view window with a new gasket of some sort and making it leak proof?...Got any Ideas on the subject?
It depends on the year. Sometime mid-70s when Airstream went to the double pane windows, the vista view window frame changed and is very difficult to dissassemble (it can be done, see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ilm-37422.html ) and you have to remove it from the frame in order to do so.

Prior to that, the vista view was designed so that the inside pane (which was plexiglass) could be removed without removing the frame from the shell. You simply removed the "C-clip" retainer ("simply" is a figure of speech here).

The problem with the old design was that you still needed to repair the inner seal between the two panes. The old seal appeared to be similar to plumber's putty, so I did a repair using gray putty-like tape that RV places sell for installing vents, etc. This material didn't make a seal that was as attractive as I wanted and it only lasted about 5 years. If your AS has this style vista view, you might try using the newer butyl tape to fashion a seal.

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Old 11-29-2008, 03:41 PM   #27
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Pity they are such a PITA, they are the first thing I look for when I'm checking out an AS.

I think the idea of natural light coming from above is a great idea! Many of the older TTs I see are just too dark inside.

But who needs leaks!? Yuck.

Thanks, great article!
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:09 PM   #28
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Thanks, just bought a 70 AS and just siliconed an upper window that was leaking, this is temp. now I know what to do.
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