Plastic Moulding/Trim on Outside of Windows

[Skycop]

In our 65' Globetrotter I have decided to replace the plastic trim/moulding on the outside of the windows. I don't know the official name for this trim, but I do know that itis gray. I also managed to get replacement moulding from a local glass shop.

My question is about the functionality of the moulding (what does it do beside asthetics) and how to cut the corners (i.e. 45 degree or leave them square/blunt which doesn't look as good in my opinion).

Finally, if I am replacing this moulding/trim, is there anything else I need to do in conjunction with this process? All of my glass is in good shape for what its worth. From what I can tell, the moulding is very brittle due to the many years in the sun, but the caulking/weatherstrip underneath is in pretty good shape. I have Vulkeim and Parbond in case I find any problems though once the trim comes off!

Thanks in advance!

[overlander64]

Greetings Skycop!

The exterior glazing strips have been mitered in most of the applications that I have seen. In the 1990s, the usual direction was to use a "dab" of Vulcem on the mitered joints to improve the seal. To insure that the windows are fully sealed, you may want to consider removing the glass and replacing glazing bedding strips as well. This would also pose a good opportunity to replace the window gaskets as well to eliminate that as a possible source of leaks.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Skycop

In our 65' Globetrotter I have decided to replace the plastic trim/moulding on the outside of the windows. I don't know the official name for this trim, but I do know that itis gray. I also managed to get replacement moulding from a local glass shop.

My question is about the functionality of the moulding (what does it do beside asthetics) and how to cut the corners (i.e. 45 degree or leave them square/blunt which doesn't look as good in my opinion).

Finally, if I am replacing this moulding/trim, is there anything else I need to do in conjunction with this process? All of my glass is in good shape for what its worth. From what I can tell, the moulding is very brittle due to the many years in the sun, but the caulking/weatherstrip underneath is in pretty good shape. I have Vulkeim and Parbond in case I find any problems though once the trim comes off!

Thanks in advance!

The original window gasket was very thin and hollow.

The problem with it from day one, is when the window is closed for a few weeks, that hollow gasket collapses and becomes useless.

A much improved "D" shape gasket has now been in use for several years, that has proven to be the "fix".

Thoiusands of owners have switched to it.

Andy

[Skycop]

Thanks guys...and midor....that was the word I was looking for!

[VintageRV]

Kevin is referring to 3 different parts, each with an important role to play in keeping your 1961 to 1965 Hehr Hall-Mark 12 windows dry. The Glazing Strip is a rubber or plastic strip that is cut at a 45 degree miter in the corners. It goes on the outside of the glass and deflects water so it does not go around the edges of the glass where it meets the frame. On Hall-Mark 12 windows, this was originally vinyl plastic and was later available as a vinyl rubber. For years, we have sold it as silicone rubber. Now, we are going back to vinyl plastic for originality sake. It prevents the frame from acting as a gutter on the lower edge.

The second item mentioned is glazing tape. This is what you bed your glass in when you put in new glass. No need to change it out if you are not removing the glass from the frame. It is the single most important seal against water and should be applied very carefully with tight corners.

The third item is called the Bulb Seal. This goes in a track around the perimeter of the screen. It is the gasket against which the moving sash (called the front frame) closes. It provides a water and air seal. The original vinyl rubber bulb is often found missing or deformed completely (as Andy mentioned). We decided to reproduce it in silicone rubber to avoid the deformation issue.

If you have a 1958 to 1960 Airstream, it is unlikely you have a Hall-Mark 12. It is more likely you have Hehr Clear-View windows and possible a combination of Clear-View (or Clearview) windows and Hehr Standard windows. If you have Hehr Standard windows none of the above applies. If you have Clear-View windows, almost everything is the same except as for the Hall-Mark 12 windows except that the glazing strip was originally vinyl rubber and the replacement is silicone rubber.

If you have any additional questions or issues about early 1960s windows, let me know.

Thanks,
Steve