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Old 05-12-2016, 07:48 PM   #29
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BTW, all my other windows have radiused corners and are a single piece gasket with the ends in the lower center. None accumulate water in their channel.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:52 PM   #30
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Thanks. Are you able to get water on it from the top and see if it makes its way out of the drain holes?
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:58 PM   #31
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Not really, because that area between the lower seal and the outer frame holds water anyway. Also silt came out the slits, indicating water and dirt intrusion over a long time.
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:13 AM   #32
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Just an update, but not a declaration of victory yet. I decided to perform more major surgery, as the "patching" sealing wasn't going to cut it. Some facts found thus far:

I decided to replace the seal. As this is a square window frame, AS just cut four pieces of medium D seal and mitered the corners.

1) As I suspected, AS installed the four pieces with the self adhesive into the frame and then just smeared some weatherstrip adhesive on the outside of the seal. There is ZERO sealer in the seal joints on the flat (rear) side of the "D". This allows water to both pass directly through the corners as well as pass into the interior of the "d" seal and run to the bottom corners of the seal, which is also not sealed on the backside. This obviously allows water a passage....and big ones....to the interior side of the glass to seal interface.
2) when I replaced the seal material procured from VTS I did two things; a) used weatherstrip adhesive all along the outside perimeter of the seal b) used a contiguous strip all around the window with the seam at the center bottom of the window. I left the seam butted but UNSEALED for a drain. The corners were given an extra amount of adhesive in order to accommodate the "bunching " of the seal making a sharp 90* turn.

I will post more definitive info with pictures, if/when I see improvement/elimination of water intrusion, but I feel I'm getting somewhere.

Other noted AS mistakes in design/assembly: The top of the glass does not make adequate pressure contact to the seal, as the hinge assembly holds the glass too far away from the seal contact surface, IMO. I have an idea for a fairly simple fix, but it will involve removal of the glass from its hinge half (not done yet, so I'll hold off judgement). The glass also sits a bit too low in the window frame (no fix for that) leaving the top contact patch somewhat smaller than the sides and bottom.

BTW, you can adjust the lower latches all day long in the hopes if stopping water, but with the seals open and the top contact patch inadequacies, you're accomplishing nothing.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:58 AM   #33
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Update. In addition to post #32, I came back and filled the "baby butt crack" in the top corners of the outside face of the seal (created by bending, not cutting, the seal for the 90* turn) with Permatex Ultra Black RTV. I chose this sealer because it stays more flexible than the weatherstrip adhesive. I worked it into the bunched corner void and covered with waxed paper and closed the window, in order to get a good uniform surface to the sealer/seal to glass interface. This worked....except the waxed paper adhered permanently to the RTV. I thought of using some sort of release agent due to the suspected fear of adherence to the waxed paper, but couldn't think of one which I was comfrotable that it wouldn't affect the sealer in a negative way. So not there is a bit of waxed paper between the glass and the RTV in the top corners....BUT....it has rained over 2" in the last 24 hours and the window channel is bone dry!
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:38 AM   #34
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Well, some 6 weeks later, a 3000 mile trip, and a lot of rain later....and....not a drop of water in the channel since the gasket mod/replacement. I now declare victory.
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:46 AM   #35
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Gonna have to check this out. Thanks!
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