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Old 05-27-2009, 08:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
Rothrock,
Nice looking tint job.
Do you have any good write up on the process that a novice could follow and get decent results?
I don't know about a good write up, but here's how I did it.

Items needed: Large roll of tint (You can get 6ft. rolls at most auto parts stores or Walmart, but one large roll will work best.), a soapy water spray bottle, a squeege (included with some tint), a hairdryer, and a razor blade.
  1. Remove window from Airstream. On my Overlander, I just unhooked the crank and was able to flip the window all the way up and wiggle it out of the hinge. The hinge that is on the window will stay on it.
  2. Take the window to a clean area and lay it with the interior side facing up. I just did it on my dining table inside the airstream. (put in the leaf, and there was plenty of room.)
  3. Clean the glass with soapy water. I just put a little bit of dish detergent in a spray bottle with water and cleaned it with a lint free towel. Be sure to get all dirt and dust off the glass or you'll be able to see it after the tint is on.
  4. Take your roll of tint and cut off a piece long enough to cover the entire piece of glass. A little overhang is OK for now. Once the tint is sticking on, you'll be able to cut off the excess. I let about 1/2" overhang on the length, and whatever is extra on a 24" high roll for the height. (usually a couple of inches)
  5. Now that you have a piece that's close to the size that you need, pull the clear film off the tint. An easy way to do this is to get 2 pieces of tape and stick partially together over the corner of the tint and then pull the tape apart, this will start separating the tint from the clear film. While you're pulling this apart, have someone spray the sticky side of the tint with soapy water. This will keep it from sticking to itself. Also, spray the glass with soapy water. This will allow you to position the tint correctly. You might need 2 or 3 people to do this part of the job.
  6. Since we're dealing with 90 degree angles, you can position the tint about 1/8" from 2 edges (left and bottom for example). It's good to have that 1/8" so that you can squeege the the soap and water out.
  7. Start in the middle, and start squeege'ing the soapy water out towards the edges. Once you get most of it out, you can trim the excess tint from the other 2 sides. I just took a straight edge piece of aluminum and a razor blade and cut it off. Make sure the blade is sharp or else the tint might move and/or wrinkle up.
  8. Now that everything is cut to size, and you have about 1/8" all the way around, keep using the squeege to work all the bubbles out. A small hairdryer comes in handy here to help dry the tint faster. As you pull the squeege over the tint, use the hairdryer to follow the squeege to dry it.
  9. After you're done with that window, spray some soapy water on it and clean it with a lint free towel. I don't think you're supposed to use windex on the tinted side of a window.
  10. Reinstall the window and repeat all the steps above for the rest of the windows. For the windows that don't come out, just measure and cut.
Have fun and good luck! It took me probably 4 hours to do all my windows.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:02 PM   #16
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We have a 78 As with the dual pane windows that have flakes of the deteriorated UV film that AS put inside the cavity when new...over the years this film flakes off, inside, and it looks bad....

We haven't tried to tackle this 'problem' yet, due to the task of taking all of the windows apart, etc....so...

I've applied the 'static cling' type dark film on the OUTSIDE of the windows ...you clean the glass, spray some soapy liquid on the them, peel off the backing from the film and 'float' it place....then using a shape knife I trimmed the film...worked great, and the AS looks better, from the outside, anyway...

This type of film can be easily removed by just wetting and peeling it off in one piece...

The regular, inside type film, has UV protectors in the 'glue' that sticks it to the glass, and can't be used on the outside...and is much more difficult to remove when it drys...
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:19 PM   #17
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Have any of you tinted or had tinted the curved windows?
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:22 AM   #18
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The side windows on my '66 are curved. It was a little harder than the flat windows for the front and rear, but it wasn't too bad.
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:54 AM   #19
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We took our windows two at a time to a place where they tint cars. It was $40. a pop, but the results are stunning. It make the trailer look sssssoooo good. They cut the oval that fit under the windows and I installed. Lets just say I am glad the professionals did all the other windows.
It is true that at night people can see you real good from the outside. But that is what curtains are fore. It was well worth the money to us to have the windows tinted. Did I mention how it makes the trailer feel cooler not having the sun glaring in on us? Our A/S had a factory film on the inside and the the people who put on the new tint said it was a B---- to get off. But I guess it has to come off before you can add the new for a good seal.
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:59 AM   #20
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Thanks for the write-up Rothrock.
I think this is a job I can handle myself. My trailer has tinting on one window that has bubbled and the others are somewhat purplish in color. They were done by the original owner.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:34 PM   #21
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Get the Titanium Tint, thats what I am fixing to have done next week at the place we have all our cars done. They have a tint called Black Chrome (looks a little Chrome to Dark), Titanium is between chrome and aluminum and looks good. Go to a auto tint dealer and look at the tints they should have a little display if they are any good.
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:40 AM   #22
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Here's a couple of shots of our baby outside with the 'chrome' tint. We travelled last winter and the tint really kept the trailer cool while we were in Arizona, and California. As for night time privacy, we still have to keep the curtains closed.
Sorry, second picture is before the tint was applied.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:08 AM   #23
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I like the dark that Rothrock did.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:20 AM   #24
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I put on a 99% reflective tint I got from Lowe's with good results which has held up for almost a decade. BUT I ended up taking it off the front glass as it was hellish when the sun hit it just right when towing. Also I missed the see-thru-the-trailer feature. I have the front window now just smoke dark. The best thing about Highly Reflective window tint is that its private (as long as you're not back lit at night) and it preserves the upholstery from UV fading.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:27 AM   #25
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I have a Basecamp and the windows are pre-tinted fairly dark already. You can see by the attached pictures what it looks like in strong sunlight from the outside and inside. You should talk to a professional tinter and ask them to show you pictures of the work that they have done, they should have some examples of the tints against various silver painted cars and trucks that could give you some feel for it... try taking a picture of your rig and find someone who has Photoshop by Adobe and drop your picture in and starting running variations of tints on the windows. This is very easy now and you should be able to download a 30 day trial that will allow you to get the job done.
Good luck it really makes a difference...when you clean the windows use a microfiber cloth and distilled water only if you want to have your window tints last.

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Old 03-04-2010, 08:15 AM   #26
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Are there tints that are more effective contolling UV than others? Is UV a major factor in heat gain in the trailer? I recently bought a couple of roof vents and originally wanted clear. MaxxFan told me smoke better filters UV and therefore less heat gain in the trailer.
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:41 AM   #27
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Most all the tints films will eliminate over 90% of the UV. UV is on the opposite end of the visible light spectrum as Infra red which is the heat part of the spectrum. If you want to hold out the heat the chrome type tints are best. If you really want to do a good job for keeping out the heat, awnings are the right thing. The big awning on the curbside is really nice to set under and have a cool one. That really beats the heat. Painting your roof white will help your interior temperature by lowering it 10 degrees in the blazing sun. our 77 has a white roof.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:18 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheProfessor View Post
I put on a 99% reflective tint I got from Lowe's with good results which has held up for almost a decade. BUT I ended up taking it off the front glass as it was hellish when the sun hit it just right when towing. Also I missed the see-thru-the-trailer feature. I have the front window now just smoke dark. The best thing about Highly Reflective window tint is that its private (as long as you're not back lit at night) and it preserves the upholstery from UV fading.
I've got a newer trailer, and it's got a satin exterior finish - certainly not mirror shiny like the newly polished units.

During a recent trip to Lake Placid we had friends following us in a moho - they said that when the light hit our A/S just "so", it would flash and blind him. He said it happened frequently enough to be somewhat bothersome yet somewhat amusing.

Adding chrome tinted windows to the mix would certainly make it worse I'd imagine.
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