Need window install tips

[tinbender]

I removed the window next to the door on my 72 Safari to replace seals and for general maintenance. The window has been leaking pretty badly and was setting in the frame sort of sideways. There was evidence of a less than desirable repair so I drilled out the remaining rivets from the connector strip that attaches at the top of the window frame. Don't know the proper name for it but it is the piece that allows the window to pivot in and out. I also removed the "stops" that limit the side to side travel of the strip. Long story short, this connector strip came out of the channel that it sets in and I am fighting a real uphill battle trying to get it back in so I can rehang the window. Any tips for installation appreciated.

Thanks,

Tindbender

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by tinbender

I removed the window next to the door on my 72 Safari to replace seals and for general maintenance. The window has been leaking pretty badly and was setting in the frame sort of sideways. There was evidence of a less than desirable repair so I drilled out the remaining rivets from the connector strip that attaches at the top of the window frame. Don't know the proper name for it but it is the piece that allows the window to pivot in and out. I also removed the "stops" that limit the side to side travel of the strip. Long story short, this connector strip came out of the channel that it sets in and I am fighting a real uphill battle trying to get it back in so I can rehang the window. Any tips for installation appreciated.

Thanks,

Tindbender

Tinbender,
Got pictures? If I understand correctly you unriveted the hinge portion? If that is correct you will have to rivet that back in place prior to reinstalling the window. The windows are a bit of a pain to reinstall, you have to get them started in the rail then push down on the center of the top of the window to get them to "pop" into place.

Aaron

[tinbender]

Wahoo,

You read my mind correctly. We are thinking of the same part, the hinge.

See attached pics. Will try your method for install soon as the rain stops.

Thanks, TB

[wahoonc]

TB,
Is that the piece off the window or the piece off the body? Either way it will need to be reinstalled first Then you should be able to swing the window back into position.

Aaron

[nickcrowhurst]

Tinbender, I had a similar "interesting challenge" when I removed one of my trailer's windows. On my trailer, a window can only be removed or re-installed when the window is opened almost as far as it will go, after the handles have been disconnected. Only at that correct angle will the window pop in or out of the channel. Even then, a sharp blow with the hand is required to slot into or out of the channel. On one window, no amount of lifting and banging could re-install the window. I looked along the channel at the top of the window, and saw that it was slightly curved, although the mating section on the trailer was straight. I then took various pieces of wood and a large screwdriver, and, by very careful manipulation, slightly straightened the curved channel. The window then re-installed without a problem. You need to establish whether or not your window will slot into the channel at the correct angle. IIRC, the window is not far off vertical before it will engage. You might like to experiment with re-installing the hinge to the window while it is off the trailer, and then, with a helper, re-install the hinge and window as a unit.
Nick.

[tinbender]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

TB,
Is that the piece off the window or the piece off the body? Either way it will need to be reinstalled first Then you should be able to swing the window back into position.

wahoo,

The piece is from the top of the window. I took the pic of the piece inside because of the rain and I hated to rip off all that beautilful blue tape and plastic on the temp install that I did last night.

nickcrowhurst,

Thanks for the input as well. Great point about the near vertical positioning being required. I just knew that someone else had to have had this problem before. Now waiting on a little better working conditions, i.e. weather

TB

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by tinbender

I removed the window next to the door on my 72 Safari to replace seals and for general maintenance. The window has been leaking pretty badly and was setting in the frame sort of sideways. There was evidence of a less than desirable repair so I drilled out the remaining rivets from the connector strip that attaches at the top of the window frame. Don't know the proper name for it but it is the piece that allows the window to pivot in and out. I also removed the "stops" that limit the side to side travel of the strip. Long story short, this connector strip came out of the channel that it sets in and I am fighting a real uphill battle trying to get it back in so I can rehang the window. Any tips for installation appreciated.

Thanks,

Tindbender

Your windows are removed very easily.

Discconnect the two lift arms.

Raise the window over your head as vertical as possible.

The window will then drop out.

You must not remove the hinge, as you may not get it back on again in a straight line.

The hinge is never removed.

Andy

[CaddyGrn]

Well,

We have totally different kinds of windows for our 1963 Bambi, I can provide one bit of advice. I do not recommend the hammer technique my husband tried when installing a new glass on ours the first time.... well, maybe I won't elaborate....eventually it all worked out after buying a new window glass for the second time...

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by CaddyGrn

Well,

We have totally different kinds of windows for our 1963 Bambi, I can provide one bit of advice. I do not recommend the hammer technique my husband tried when installing a new glass on ours the first time.... well, maybe I won't elaborate....eventually it all worked out after buying a new window glass for the second time...

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)

You might suggest that he use "Lexan" for window replacements in the future.

Lexan does cost a lot more money.

"BUT" you can beat on it with a sledge hammer. He may dent it, but he can't break it.

Although UPS recently managed to break a replacement window made with Lexan. UPS suggests improper packaging, but has no answer when you can bend it into a circle and not break it.

The same material, thicker of course, is used for bullet proofing windows.

Hammers and glass, are notorious enemies.

Andy

[tinbender]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

You must not remove the hinge, as you may not get it back on again in a straight line. The hinge is never removed.
Andy

Andy,

I agree, I hope I never have to do it again especially since I am fighting the wind to get it back in, but didn't have much choice as the goal was to properly install the window. There were 3 rivets missing, 2 of which were the outer most one on each side of the hinge. The hinge had a slight curve near each end and those holes would not line up to simply install the missing rivets. The window didn't have adequate support to keep it properly aligned in the frame, and appears to be the source of a longterm leak.
Thanks, TB

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by tinbender

Andy,

I agree, I hope I never have to do it again especially since I am fighting the wind to get it back in, but didn't have much choice as the goal was to properly install the window. There were 3 rivets missing, 2 of which were the outer most one on each side of the hinge. The hinge had a slight curve near each end and those holes would not line up to simply install the missing rivets. The window didn't have adequate support to keep it properly aligned in the frame, and appears to be the source of a longterm leak.
Thanks, TB

In the interest of saving you from more misery, if you have a question then please post it in the site.

You will have to weigh opinions from the facts, but there are always some of us that will try and help you.

Andy

[Philmag1]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

In the interest of saving you from more misery, if you have a question then please post it in the site.

You will have to weigh opinions from the facts, but there are always some of us that will try and help you.

Andy

I have a question about my windows in my newly purchased 80 Excella II, I have double pane windows that have small amber colored crystals and loose screws sitting between the panes, How difficult is it to remove these windows and repair them. Any links to repair forums is helpful!

Phil

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Philmag1

I have a question about my windows in my newly purchased 80 Excella II, I have double pane windows that have small amber colored crystals and loose screws sitting between the panes, How difficult is it to remove these windows and repair them. Any links to repair forums is helpful!

Phil

DON'T. STOP. WHOA.

That's how the double pane windows are made.

The crystals are a desiccant which absorbs any moisture that might get in between the two panes of glass.

The screws, as you call them, are probably white. But they are spacers, not screws.

Unless there is visible moisture between the panes of glass, then leave it alone.

It appears that your trying to fix something, that's not broke.

Andy

[Philmag1]

Those spacers or screws have fallen out of the gasket between the glass and are sitting on the bottom! I can see other ones getting loose and they are about to join the ones already there! Thanks for the info on the desiccant crystals. So i gather if I have no leaks fix the other 100 things that are broke.

[rymndmr]

What color are the pellets to be. my windows have moisture between them and I would like to remidy this. my trailer is a 76 /31 ft
is this a job too big for a all around handy man.
whay seals do i need to purchase for replacements

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Philmag1

Those spacers or screws have fallen out of the gasket between the glass and are sitting on the bottom! I can see other ones getting loose and they are about to join the ones already there! Thanks for the info on the desiccant crystals. So i gather if I have no leaks fix the other 100 things that are broke.

Hey, don't mess with the ain't broke yet things.

Work on the other 100 things. When you get through with those, the little things won't ever bother you again.

You might however, check the window gaskets to see if they are the oroiginals. If they are, you will find them hard and cracked. They make good water leakers.

Keep the trailer "water leak free." Door gaskets and especially the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets are leakers too.

Andy

[gean235]

Hey Andy, You mentioned the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets. Is it ok to take them off, clean all gasket material off, buff the pipe and the installation hole and replace all with silicone sealant on the reverse install?

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by jean235

Hey Andy, You mentioned the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets. Is it ok to take them off, clean all gasket material off, buff the pipe and the installation hole and replace all with silicone sealant on the reverse install?

Hi jean,
I'm not Andy but I can tell you DO NOT USE SILICONE!!! it does not adhere properly to the aluminum and when (not if) the leaks start back up, you will have a major mess on your hands cleaning the crap off so the proper stuff will stick. Use the proper gasket, screening and Vulkem caulk and you won't go wrong.

Aaron

[nickcrowhurst]

The magic search button and inputting "vent pipe gasket" will reveal much information, including Pick's excellent photos and description at:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...kets-5141.html?
Nick.

[gean235]

Thanks Aaron. Will that be VULKEM 116 CAULK that I have read about? Where is the best and nost reasonable place to buy it online? I hope it comes in silver color. Thanks.. Morris