Need Window Help ASAP

[IronGiant]

Ladies/Fellas

The GOOD
I am in the process of replacing the front window on the left hand side of mu 1970 Safari. Rivet drill out and window pry out went great. Vintage trailer supply drill bit worked great with stanley center punch. Paint thner cleaned all debris off the exterior

THE BAD

Problem is that oncethe widow frame came out(3 sides= top,curved and bottom); the U Channel center part, that is still attached to one long straight side of the original window did not. I tried WD 40, Hammer and chisel, but it refused to budge. Do I pry this thing off? Need to get this squared away

THE UGLY

Window is taped shut, with super mega ultra rain on the way. Any help on getting that center U Channel off would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and after today's events a ciagar is in order. Pat

[68 TWind]

I just replace a couple of my window in my 68 TW. On one, the PO had used some type of adhesive/sealant around the glass bar. I tried everything but could not separate the two parts. Finally in desperation I got out my heat gun. Heated up the old stuff, it is a heat gun I use to shrink the covering on R/C airplane models. When heated the glass bar came apart with no problem at all. Just a suggestion, may not fit your situation.

Good luck.

[Aerowood]

The wing window inside window frame is held on by the vertical strip that you are referring to. It is dovetailed and will not pry off. The dovetails on that vertical piece also mates with a dovetail on the center window outboard side, so you could damage the center window frame if pried on. The only way to remove it, is to drive it either up or down. I used a thick piece of aluminum as a driving tool and drove mine down. It took a bit to get it moving but it will slide. I also had a couple of sheet metal screws in the center of mine that held on a rock guard bracket that also needed to be removed

KIp

[Inland RV Center, In]

Once in a while the "joiner" strip that holds the wing window to the front window, is severely corroded internally, and cannot be driven up or down.

In that case, using a Dremel tool, cut that joiner strip in half, vertically.

When reinstalling the new wing window, use an adequate amount of Vulkem between it and the front window.

Trying to reinstall even a new joiner strip, is useless, as it really serves no useful purpose.

Andy

[IronGiant]

Fellas- Bigger Problems

Thanks for the info. I picked up a dremel rotary metal bit and attached it to the coordless dril. Drill bit cut through Aluminum Spline but it was a real PITA to remove. This lead me to a much more complicated scenario.

Are you ready, Well here goes. The New Airstream Window(Shipped March 20, 2009 & included by Previous Owner) supplied and shipped from Airstream HQ is way the hell off.

Specifically,the New Window's pre-drilled holes don't line up with existing holes, which I took real pains to slowly and accurately drill out. Next, the predrilled holes on the New Window will not accomodate a 5/32 Olympic Rivet purchased from VTS. In addition, the new window does nut even cover existing rivet holes on the curved turn at top and bottom of wing window. I left her all taped up vowed to return soon

I saved all original hardware and cleaned up real nice with Paint Thinner. Thinking about finding someone in my vicinity to fix with new glass or use the New Glass and install on Old Frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Pat

[PizzaChop]

Maybe I can use this thread to convince Mrs. PizzaChop of the need for a $345 rockguard from InlandRV before one of our wing windows "needs replacing".

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by IronGiant

Fellas- Bigger Problems

Thanks for the info. I picked up a dremel rotary metal bit and attached it to the coordless dril. Drill bit cut through Aluminum Spline but it was a real PITA to remove. This lead me to a much more complicated scenario.

Are you ready, Well here goes. The New Airstream Window(Shipped March 20, 2009 & included by Previous Owner) supplied and shipped from Airstream HQ is way the hell off.

Specifically,the New Window's pre-drilled holes don't line up with existing holes, which I took real pains to slowly and accurately drill out. Next, the predrilled holes on the New Window will not accomodate a 5/32 Olympic Rivet purchased from VTS. In addition, the new window does nut even cover existing rivet holes on the curved turn at top and bottom of wing window. I left her all taped up vowed to return soon

I saved all original hardware and cleaned up real nice with Paint Thinner. Thinking about finding someone in my vicinity to fix with new glass or use the New Glass and install on Old Frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Pat

The holes in the new windows were never designed to match. You make new holes.

The windows are designed to be installed with buck rivets.

If you want to use Olympic rivets, that's fine, but you have to drill new holes anyway, so you simply enlarge the holes that are there.

If you try to remove the glass from the new window and install it in the old window, you will take on some more problems.

The new window can be properly installed, if you use the Vulkem sealer. Don't place the new wing window exactly against the front window, but leave a gap. That gap can be permanently filled, with Vulkem.

Or, you can call Airstream at 937-5966111 and vent your anger.

Andy