Make a Window

[Zeppelinium]

I had to remove a side window due to other interior modifications, but I still wanted a small porthole above the slide-out desk. I thought this would be difficult, but once I hit on the idea of the frame, it was a 3-hr job.

1. Using a shrinker (cheap at Harbor Freight), bend an "L" extrusion into a frame in the shape of the window.


2. Cut a piece of skin to cover the frame. The skin should be 1" wide to mimic the exterior appearance of the other window frames.


3. Rivet the two pieces together using a rivet squeezer, using #40 flush rivets and counterbore the back side so that the rivets are double-flush.


4. Sand most of the scratches out, since you are cheap and used a scrap piece of skin. The frame will be buck riveted onto the shell using #30 dome head rivets to mimic the existing rivet pattern on the rest of the shell.


5. A piece of Lexan will be cut to fit inside the frame and will be secured with short sections of "L" extrusion, tight against a ribbon of butyl rubber.

6. The inside bezel will be a matching frame, 1-1/2" thick, printed on a 3D printer.

7. Eventually it would be nice to have a second, thicker (0.050?) piece of skin (cut in exactly the same doughnut shape) to give the whole thing a more substantial look and to hide the flush rivets.

I'll post photos of the installed window in a couple weeks.

[vswingfield]

Can't wait to see the final result.

[Aerowood]

Nice job, why did you take the microstop apart?

[Zeppelinium]

I used it to counter-bore the back side, which is so near the flange that even my micro-stop couldn't get in there. The only other tool I have for that is just a larger drill bit, which isn't as smooth.

Uwe is going to use the original window--installing the smaller porthole made my storage shelves and pull-out desk to fit without limiting the arrangement to fit the window.



I've got to finish some of the edges and do the stain and varnish, but the hard part of the shelves is done. This was a twin--I'm putting a double on the other side.

Zep

[Zeppelinium]

Almost ready to do the install. The new storage shelves are visible in the first photo. The porthole is at eye level if you're sitting on the bed and working at the desk.

[Zeppelinium]

Transferred the cutout to the interior skin. The only thing missing is the printed bezel.

Thanks to Aerowood for his scrap interior skin.

[Zeppelinium]

The original window provides a stiff reinforcement for the curve of the shell. Without the window frame, the skin alone can have a tendency to oil can. These two ribs conform exactly (meaning about 1/32", thanks to the shrinker) to the main shell ribs and will be riveted inside the outer skin using the rivet lines at the forward and aft vertical edges of the new skin, like a doubler.

[Aerowood]

Good to see that you are back at it.

[Zeppelinium]

Can you believe it, it's been 3 years of working on the new house, so no time for Airstreams. It's great to look in the toolbox and find the micro-countersinks, riveting tools, and polishing gear. (It's like riding a bicycle ...)

Anyway, the skin is permanently installed. Just working on a good method for retaining the Lexan in the frame. I'm thinking of using a cut down "L" extrusion and some nutplates.

[Zeppelinium]

I've always wanted a porthole in the door. I think I'd use 3/4" extrusion rather than 1/2". A bigger flange would allow for an easier method of retaining the Lexan in the frame.

Zep

[Zeppelinium]

I used a strip of butyl rubber (plumber's putty) to provide the seal for the window. The Lexan is held against the seal with lengths of "L" extrusion and nutplates.



Installing replacement skin for windows is always problematic because the openings in the shell are usually cut by the least skilled sheet metal worker. In almost all cases, the margins for the rivet lines are unacceptable in several places. I generally sister in additional strips of 0.032 to provide the support I need.




Don't forget the insulation.



Now I really need to print that inside bezel.

[TG Twinkie]

Butyl rubber is not the same as plumbers putty.

[Zeppelinium]

Yep, but I've seen it used the same way(s).

So, here's the driving functions for why the new window is sized and placed where it is. (1) fits the new shelves and (2) is right a eye level when working at the desk.



Every Airstream should have a desk.

[rmkrum]

Yup. That's why we have a 2007 International CCD 23' rig. The lovely desk aft of the dinette.

Nicely done!

[Chuck]

Love the original gaucho upholstery!

[Zeppelinium]

Upholstery soon to be gone, as quickly as I can glue the foam from the two original twin beds together to make one mattress. Eventually I will expend the bucks for new foam, but I don't have time before Burning Man.

Zep

[Zeppelinium]

Not as elegant, but I really disliked the hard-to-operate and unnecessarily-big bath window. Getting the original out is a long story, but the short story is, I used the "dirt-view" window from next to the door to provide a small view port and bath lite.

The Burning Man Airstream is ready to roll, and much happier with the added insulation in this area. Need to polish the Trempro film off the panel and I think I'll be happy with the modification.

Zep

[Zeppelinium]

In a departure from my usual dedication to aluminum interior skins, I used FRP to enclose this window. I had pieces of FRP from a project two years ago and noticed that it had aged to almost exactly the same color as the aged paint and plastic in the Safari. The new FRP is much lighter, but I expect it will weather to a darker and more yellow tone.

Note the short 16" rib visible in the middle of the pink insulation. Because of the low stiffness of the FRP, I added this rib to provide dimension control between the FRP and outer skin. I should have made it longer.

The next step will be printing the bezels for both this new window and for the one that started this thread.





Zep

[Lumatic]

Zep, Your miscellaneous aluminum artistry shall never cease to amaze me.

[Zeppelinium]

Once the inside skin is installed, it becomes apparent that trim is an issue, simply because to form a shape with a flange on the outside of the bend usually results in a tear in the material. 3D printer to the rescue.

If you don't have a 3D printer, check out your local "maker space." These clubs can have all sorts of exotic tools, like laser cutters, CNC wood cutting machines, welding gear, etc. You can also find 3D printers at the library--who would have thought?

If the printer isn't big enough, the trim can be printed in sections and designed so that each section clicks into the next piece.







Zep