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Old 09-22-2007, 02:51 AM   #1
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1968 24' Tradewind
Marquette , Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 136
Leaking '68 windows

Hi all,
I have a couple questions about my windows.
1) How do I get them to stop leaking? Water is coming in near the tops of the windows. I can't tell if its coming through the hinge or just below where the top of the silver edge on the glass is. I have four side windows doing this. They are the original corning curved glass. I have ordered new window clips and new window gaskets.
2) Does anyone know where to find the hardware that goes on the bottom of the window frame? The parts that grab the window clips and pull them in? Do they have a name? Did I say two questions?
The bathroom window has plexiglass in it. It still has the crank arm but the other parts are missing. I already have the glass that goes in there. Can I just say...I love this forum!
Thanks, Jess
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Old 09-22-2007, 04:54 AM   #2
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1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by U.PenAir
... 1) How do I get them to stop leaking? Water is coming in near the tops of the windows. I can't tell if its coming through the hinge or ...

2) Does anyone know where to find the hardware that goes on the bottom of the window frame? ... Do they have a name? ...

[2a]. Can I just say...I love this forum!
1) Probably through the hinge. Believe it or not, silicone rubber is the approved sealer for your situation. Open the window wide and squirt a bead of the stuff into the hinge. Close & open the window a few times to distribute the silicone rubber before it cures.

2) The hardware on your model is called a thingamuhbob. Later models used thingamuhjigs. InlandRV.com sells both.

2a) Yes, but don't get drippy.

Tom
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Old 09-22-2007, 09:37 AM   #3
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2016 20' Flying Cloud
Centennial , Colorado
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Leaking '68 windows

I have a '66 Safari with the same windows. Be sure to seal all the way around the windows. I used silkaflex and it worked well. New rubber gaskets will also make a difference for you. Be sure to replace the one around the door opening and the screen door also.

When You get the new window clips, You will need to take a needle nosed pliers and bend them a bit so they will grasp the glass. Be careful slipping them onto the glass. I used a small piece of rubber inside of each clip to help grasp and not scratch the glass (not an original item but I tend to overkill these things)

I have all of the hardware and lubed each piece several times and they work well, however, if You do find where You can get more of these items, would You please let me know? I would like to have a few spares. I was told they are no longer available.

Also, there is a posting today from someone in Missouri parting out a '68 Safari....check with him regarding the hardware You need.

Steve
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by U.PenAir
Hi all,
I have a couple questions about my windows.
1) How do I get them to stop leaking? Water is coming in near the tops of the windows. I can't tell if its coming through the hinge or just below where the top of the silver edge on the glass is. I have four side windows doing this. They are the original corning curved glass. I have ordered new window clips and new window gaskets.
2) Does anyone know where to find the hardware that goes on the bottom of the window frame? The parts that grab the window clips and pull them in? Do they have a name? Did I say two questions?
The bathroom window has plexiglass in it. It still has the crank arm but the other parts are missing. I already have the glass that goes in there. Can I just say...I love this forum!
Thanks, Jess
66, 67 and 68 window hinges are famous leakers.

The fix it easy.

Get a couple of tubes of clear silicone sealer. This is one time it's ok to use that material.

With the hinged window closed, take a small wire brush and clean the hinge where the two halfs meet. Clean it well.

Next, inject as much silicone as you can into the complete hinge when the window is closed.

IMPORTANT. Every 5 minutes or so, depending on how fast the sealer is setting up, completely open the window. After another 5 minutes, completely close the window. Keep repeating that procedure until the sealer has set. That could take perhaps 30 minutes or more, depending on the ambient temperature.

What your doing, is filling the voids within the hinge, and, coating both sides of the hinge.

A couple of words of caution though. You must not
let the sealer set up so that it seals the window shut. If you do, then you will have to remove as much of the sealer as you can, and then start all over.

If the gaskets are old, replace them. The original black gasket had a double flare. We researched and found that a "D" shaped gasket that is hollow, works far superior, and lasts much longer than the original gasket.

It's just as easy to install as the original type gasket, as long as you use "super weatherstrip adhesive."

That same gasket can be used on the entrance door and on the three sides of the access doors that were used from 1964 to 1968.

Also be sure to check the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets. They have a life of about 5 years or so. When that gasket is replaced, change the cover to the polished cast metal type that Airstream has used for over 37 years.

Also check the reefer vent cover and the stove vent covers. The original were made with plastic, that for most of the time, has failed years ago, which allows more water leaks. Metal and fiberglass replacements are available,

Next, check the ceiling vent cover gaskets. Those too, must be replaced when they are old, since the original gasket material becomes firm and therefore does not seal as it should.

Lastly, check all the clearance light for leaks. Most owners choose to replace the old clearance lights with the same type or LED's, and then seal them on the backside, and around the top and both sides. Do not seal the bottom of any clearance lights.

After the "I don't want any rain on the inside of my Airstream" project is over, then you can turn your attention to many others things on your Airstream that require PM.

Check out the axles, the tires, the running gear balance, LPG pressure, water heater pilot light burner and oriface, same for the furnace, water pump valves, exterior seams, coupler lock, entrance door lock and striker pocket, rear end separation, the exterior paint, trim, sealing the stack and vista view windows, checking the holding tank and valves for leaks,etc.

Owning an older Airstream is very nice, and a lot of fun, but it does require sometimes a lot of work, and it helps to keep us older folks, off the streets.

Andy
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:22 AM   #5
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1968 24' Tradewind
Marquette , Michigan
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Today is the day

Thank you everyone for your quick reply. I am so glad everyone agrees on the fix. I am going gangbusters today with my caulk gun in hand. I'll let you know how it works as it is supposed to rain here on Monday & Tuesday.

Thanks,
Jess
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:21 AM   #6
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1968 24' Tradewind
Marquette , Michigan
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It worked!

It rained last night and when I went to check the AS, all was dry! Thank you so much for all of the help!
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:11 AM   #7
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It rained last night and when I went to check the AS, all was dry! Thank you so much for all of the help!
Rain?

What's rain?

In southern California, we have to see a movie, to remind ourselves what "rain" is really like.

We very seldom have any water leaks with Airstream's here.

No rain.

But we have brown grass and brown forests too.

Word has it that the fire fighter aircraft will soon start dropping green paint on our forests.

Wow, what they won't think of next.

Only problem seems to be that they haven't figured out a way to remove the paint off of a human.

So, they tell us, don't be surprised if you see "green" people walking around.

And here we thought green people only lived on Mars.

Welcome to Kaliphornia.

Andy
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