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Old 03-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
Yes, just leave it out. Don't even put the frame for the plexiglass back in. The main frame around the glass has all the "active" parts--bottom locks, opening rods, top hinge, and the edge gasket to the shell-side frame.



I doubt it. I don't have the rock guard, but you have to swing the window up very high to get the hinge to release. Think the rock guard will definitely prevent that. But you should be able to remove the rock guard pretty easily, just undo the support arms and swing it up. Its hinge releases in the same way.

Zep

Thanks, Zep. I took a close look at my front window this morning and sure enough, there were the screws, three on each side.

Looking forward to getting this done this weekend. My wife hates the unsightly "mold," she says it looks like fly crap.
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:45 PM   #16
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Got to the front window today to clean it up and apply new gaskets. Like Zep said, if you have the rock guard you have to remove it first. The front window simply lifts out like the other windows.

Removing the inner, plexiglass pane should have been a quick 10 minute job, but when you work with vintage Airstreams, things are rarely ever easy. One of the 14 screws had seized, BIG TIME, and I couldn't budge it so I had to drill it out. Once that was done, it was a simple task to remove and clean up the the old, deteriorated seals. My plexiglass pane has some scratches and other bubble-like imperfections so I elected to not reinstall it at this time (I'll get some new plexiglass and reinstall this later). Reinstalling the window is definately a two-person job, don't try it alone.

With the rock guard off I elected to do a little maintenance on it as well. The splines had pulled away from the corners (this seems to be a common problem with all window rock guards) and took some silicone spray to the rubber gasket/cushion to clean and freshen it up. While cleaning the tinted plexiglass with Windex I noticed that the rock guard had done its job well on at least four occasions--I counted two small cracks and two star-like dings in it. If you have one, I'd inspect it, too, for similar results.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:38 PM   #17
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1974 27' Overlander
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Water in window

Hi Zep,
Your window description was very helpful. I was really lucky when I bought my '74 Overlander in that it came with the Original Owners Manual and, in addition, the Original Service Manual. My problem (one of many) is that the interior film in all my windows has deteriorated and looks nasty.
Even worse, the left front window next to the large picture window is half full of water! There are no apparent breaks in the skin and I am wondering how the water got inside the window where it now sloshes around. Looking at water marks inside the window the water level has been higher in the past. I am wondering where it goes when it leaks out? And what kind of damage it may do as it leaks out inside the wall.
The Service Manual says to remove all rivets on both the inside and outside of the window to remove the window. This looks like quite a job for someone who has little knowledge of taking out and replacing rivets. I would like to find someone in the Modesto, CA area who has some knowledge of old Airstreams that I could hire to give me a hand.
I appreciated the detail you gave in your posting.
Papapete
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:31 PM   #18
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Reno , Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmklawt
My 1975 Tradewind front window has dual panes and both are glass.

Why is the front window, wing windows and upper Vista View the only double pane windows in the whole trailer?

My Vista View window have Plexiglas inside
I had to remove the inner plexiglass from my vista windows on my 75 Tradewind. There was a bunch of dirt and crap in there that had to go...

Also, all of my windows are double-pane. Found out when some kids shot out two of my windows with bbs. I removed the damaged outer pane and had single pane windows before I found replacements (luckily)...
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papapete View Post
Hi Zep,
...My problem (one of many) is that the interior film in all my windows has deteriorated and looks nasty.
Even worse, the left front window next to the large picture window is half full of water!
1. There are no apparent breaks in the skin and I am wondering how the water got inside the window where it now sloshes around.
2. Looking at water marks inside the window the water level has been higher in the past.
3. I am wondering where it goes when it leaks out? And what kind of damage it may do as it leaks out inside the wall.


I had exactly the same problem. I never figured out how the water got in or out--it goes out very slowly...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Papapete View Post
The Service Manual says to remove all rivets on both the inside and outside of the window to remove the window. This looks like quite a job for someone who has little knowledge of taking out and replacing rivets....
It's surprising how straightforward taking out the rivets is. It does require a little bit of training, like 30 minutes with someone who knows, but a drill motor and a #30 bit is just about all you need.

Putting the rivets back in requires a lot more--air, a rivet gun, bucking bar, and a pack of the right rivets (actually, probably 3-4 packs of different lengths). A little bit more training and you'd be able to drive 90% of your rivets correctly (drill the bad ones out and do it again).

I'm sure there's are rivet master near you.

Zep
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:26 PM   #20
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The '75 Sovereign front window was always full of condensation and I couldn't wait to tackle it, you know, one of those quick 2-hr tasks when the weather got warm.

WARNING! The front windows on models that have dual pane windows are not simply screwed together with a foam seal--they are put together just like the side dual pane windows, with the sticky glazing tape and a riveted frame. So you need to set aside two+ days if you're going to add solar film to the inside of the outer pane.

As I was separating the panes, it became obvious why the window was full of condensation--the glazing tape had dried out along a 20" section at the bottom edge. The one good thing was that I used the technique I learned by accident at the last restoration rally--if the glass (and glazing tape) is warm, the panes separate relatively easily. I didn't have the hot NM sun, so I used a heat gun and it worked. I also did some very light polishing of the outside surface to remove/lessen the small etched blimishes from tree sap/bug guts that were left on the window for extended periods (does anyone know what causes these little acid etches?).

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Old 04-03-2012, 05:45 AM   #21
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1974 31' Sovereign
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hey zep we have a 74 sov land yaught the left side small window in front is half full of water how do i get it out need help
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:09 AM   #22
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hey zep we have a 74 sov land yaught the left side small window in front is half full of water how do i get it out need help
You have to remove all the rivets. Then, as I recall, there are a couple screws that retain the straight edge to the curved part of the frame. Or maybe rivets. In any event, once you get it out and get the frame apart, you have to [very carefully] pry the panes apart, clean both thoroughly, apply a bead of butyl glazing tape, and reseal the panes.

There are two major problems with this, besides the riveting. The proper thickness glazing tape is hard to find and the vinyl gasket (from CRL, their 5/8" version, which actually fits 1/2" thick glass sandwiches) is about $55 a roll. These windows are so difficult to repair that I remove them and skin over the opening. See my Safari thread (posts 55-70; I also did the Ovelander, but can't seem to find the post right now. The join line on the Overlander skins is slightly different, not going quite to the corner.). They are also hard to drape, so good ridance.

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Old 04-04-2012, 05:14 AM   #23
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Zep do u mean the rivets on the out side of the AS or the ones on the inside around the window cover .Do i have to take the window completly out .I was hopen there was a easyer way to do this I sure hope so there is. Thanks for the info
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #24
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You have to take the frame completely out, which means all the rivets on the outside. To put it back in, you have to take out the inside plastic window surround, so all the inside rivets come out, too. There is not getting around it, this is a b...h of a task.

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Old 04-07-2012, 05:13 PM   #25
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I put solar film on the inside of the outer pane. The edges of the film can be cut back from the edge of the glass a bit, since the butyl seat and frame will cover the edges about 3/8"+. I got a fair amount of dust under the film, but it's still a big improvement over how the window looked before.

The window went back together pretty easy, compared to the side windows. Don't forget to put HVAC tape around the edges (so the gasket can slide into place and not get stuck on the butyl). The tape can also provide a nice secondary seal (use the aluminum waterproof version). You also need to put about a teaspoon of desicant in between the panes. The best method is to clean the panes, put the outer pane down on the workbench, face down, apply the butyl, put in the desicant, then place the inner pane on top. Then I tape around the edges, put a gasket on one edge, and slip the frame onto that edge. Repeat 3 more times.

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I like the look of the solar film. It provides a bit of privacy and I'm looking forward to how much solar heat it keeps out.

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Old 04-16-2013, 06:22 PM   #26
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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thank you Zeppelinium

Pam wanted the ugly mold and condensation out of the front window. We took the window to the local RV specialist for glass, he was stumped not sure he wanted to tackle the job told us if he did it would probably be $650 to fix.
We came home did our research found this thread. I am now the last pearson to find out about how easy this is with the front window with plexiglass. Thanks Zeppelinium.
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