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Old 04-24-2007, 06:39 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by welld.geo
Thanks for the links! I'm going to find out what size rivets I need and get the tools ordered in the next couple of weeks. As teachers we get the option of a "lump sum payment" at the end of May instead of having it put into every check throughout the year. Time to spend some of that moldy cash! Erik
Erik,
You are welcome for the links. If you need any others just holler.
I grew up around educators (whole fam damily except for me and one brother and that bridges 2 generations) In NC they do the lump sum crap in some counties and not in others, really whacks you in the pocket book come tax time

Aaron
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Old 04-25-2007, 12:25 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
The windows are held together with bucked rivets. Basically you put a rivet blank in the hole, hold a hand anvil against the backside and pound the crap out of the front side with a special air gun. They are available from several sources my favorite being Aircraft Spruce or ATS I can highly recommend both companies.
After bucking rivets last weekend with Aerowood, I can tell you he's da man when it comes to rivets. Here's what I learned. You can't use a common exhaust system air hammer, you need a special and more controllable tool. He recommends a "3X" air gun (that's a driving power, not a trade name). Then you have to get all the right rivet sets for it (flush, 5/8 round head, etc.).

The following applies to the shell. Maybe to the windows, too. It turns out that the original Airstream rivets, 1/8" round head, are no longer available. In order to get a head that has a similar diameter and crown shape, you need to get 5/32 rivets. Rivet type is MS20470A5-X, where

MS20470 -- airplane, aluminum, defines the right head shape
...........A -- soft, use for patches and low-load structure. Use
..................a harder rivet for skin to stringer or higher load
..................skin-to-skin connections, use "AD". These buggers are
..................harder to drive, let me tell you, but not that difficult.
...........5 -- 5/32 diameter
...........X -- length in 1/32", should be 1.5D protruding through all
..................layers, before bucking. more on computing X after I ask
..................for "further clarification" from the master.

Zep
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Old 04-25-2007, 12:41 PM   #59
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Kleven

I have the same problem on the 76 Ambassador that I just bought. I was planning on "making the break" this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Randy
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Old 04-25-2007, 02:43 PM   #60
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I have been looking at the two dual pane front curved windows in my rig for three months. I am not sure if these are called vista windows or not. I finally got up enough nerve to take a chance and initiate some kind of remedy. I recently removed the two inner front curved windows on my 72 overlander. I do however think they were some form of plexi or hard plastic and not glass. They would retain moisture and looked like hell. I went from dual panes to single panes. They look so much better.
Here is what I did.

I took a dremel tool w/ a small cutting wheel attached. Made the initial plunge cut in the center of window and moved outward from there. I also set the tool on a little less that half speed. Just enough to let the tool do it's job. On the first one I taped it all up w/ masking tape. I did this tape job because I wasn't sure what the heck was going to happen. After a few six inch cuts I removed the tape since no shattering was evident. After cutting from center to near the edge, I would just pull out the window in very small pieces. I used the same method one would use for cutting a pie. (I hope that makes sense). The sweet thing about this method was that the diameter of the wheel is just less than the distance to the outer front pane. And almost impossible to hurt the outer window.
The little cutting wheels for the dremel are quite thin and make nice fine cuts. You will however break several wheels so have plenty on hand. They are quite nasty little projectiles. The whole job took about 1.5 hrs. including clean up. I am now minus two front curved inner windows but the outers are now shiny and a pleasure to clean and watch the grass grow. They almost look new. Just food for thought.
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:17 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
... It turns out that the original Airstream rivets, 1/8" round head, are no longer available. In order to get a head that has a similar diameter and crown shape, you need to get 5/32 rivets. Rivet type is MS20470A5-X, where

MS20470 -- airplane, aluminum, defines the right head shape
...........A -- soft, use for patches and low-load structure. Use
..................a harder rivet for skin to stringer or higher load
..................skin-to-skin connections, use "AD". These buggers are
..................harder to drive, let me tell you, but not that difficult.
...........5 -- 5/32 diameter
...........X -- length in 1/32", should be 1.5D protruding through all
..................layers, before bucking. more on computing X after I ask
..................for "further clarification" from the master.
Oops, the info for the last digit (the X above) is wrong. Here's how X is determined:

The rivet shaft length (X in the above quote) is measured in 1/16ths of an inch, not 1/32nds. You need 1-1/2 diameters to stick through your material (1.5D, in the vernacular of rivets, which for a 5/32 rivet is 1.5x.156=.234). So if you're putting two sheets of .032 together, you need 0.064+0.234=0.288, which in 1/16ths (0.0625) is 4.6, rounded up is a -5 rivet.

For heavy stuff like a window frame (which my eyeball says is 3/16ths thick) riveted to the shell (which is .032), it would be .234+.032+.188=.454, or 7.3 sixteenths, a -7 rivet.

Aerowood recommendgs getting rivets on both sides of the computed length, particularly on the long side, since a little thickness in the Vulkem or a shim here or there can be accommodated. I think I'll be getting -4s through -9s.

Zep
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:35 PM   #62
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Radman, are you talking about the windows pictured below? The shop manual calls them “wing windows”. Forum member Chuck and I have been trying to figure out how to take those things apart for over a year now. The manual seems to say that you have to drill out the outside rivets and remove the entire assembly from the outside (the shop manual isn’t always exact on how to do things). We just want to clean ours, but man, that is a lot of work.

One guy posted here, once upon a time, that he had removed his, cleaned them, and replaced them, but didn’t say how he did it—even after we begged him! On the ’73 models, both panes are glass (no Plexiglas). If anybody knows how to do this, you would be the person of the week in my book.

So, does anybody know how to do it?

Jim
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:24 AM   #63
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Anyone?

I am also looking for a way to deal with these dual pane wing windows. The moisture between the panes is ugly as is the seal that seperates the panes. I am seriously considering breaking the inner pane with a spring-loaded center punch, removing it and just using the remaining outer pane.


I'm wondering if anyone here has actually removed a dual-pane glass window assembly from the trailer. Can the panes be seperated at that point? If so, I think this would be the better way to go because then the inner panes could be saved for future use. I assume that both panes are identical which means you would then have an extra set of windows in case of breakage down the road...

-T
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Old 05-13-2008, 12:54 PM   #64
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It's a big job, but doable. See

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ilm-37422.html

The panes are not identical--the inner pane is smaller.

Zep
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:58 PM   #65
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After breaking the inner pane of glass, you still have an old brittle "U" gasket that really needs to be replaced anyway. Why not rebuild the window as a single pane? I'll tell you exactly how. Rebuilt all mine and they look brand new.... better that spending $450.00 for new sashes from Airstream.. Oh..I don't break any glass either..:-)

Mike
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