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ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-29-2006, 05:55 PM

Hi, no I haven't broken any Airstream windows. But I did test this out on cars going to the junk yard and used to keep these tools in all my cars for safety. Never know when you or someone else might get stuck in a vehicle and will need to break a window to get out. I did experience, once, a guy locked himself out of his car and was in a hurry to go somewhere; couldn't wait for a lock smith. We took turns hitting his vent window with my tire iron. Hitting tempered glass is very hard to break hitting it with a blunt object. We finally broke his window. Wheww

Bob

BigAl · 05-29-2006, 07:15 PM

I live in Canada where it gets cold a lot of the time. Would actually like to have thermopane windows. Go figure.
Al

Alumaholic · 05-29-2006, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigAl

I live in Canada where it gets cold a lot of the time. Would actually like to have thermopane windows. Go figure.
Al

Big All,
Scroll up to post #30. The inside surfaces of the dual panes (pains) of the '70s were tinted. Over the years, the tinted film bubbles. During the same period, condensation fogs the space between the panes. It ain't pretty but if you really want 'em, I'll trade.

Alumaholic · 06-17-2006, 08:49 PM

Check it out!

http://www.airforums.com/forum...fix-23398.html

cobra93 · 06-19-2006, 08:03 PM

Guys,
I read the entire thread and I think I have this figured out. I have a 1979 Sovereign and all of my windows are in good shape except the double pane, non-opening window in the living room (big one on bottom, not the sky-light). This one has bubbles and condensation in it and it actually has about an inch of water standing in it! FREAKY! If I read this right, I have to BREAK the inner pane? Can it be replaced? Please give me the benefit of some experience here! Thanks.
-Don

**azflycaster** · 06-19-2006, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobra93

Guys,
I read the entire thread and I think I have this figured out. I have a 1979 Sovereign and all of my windows are in good shape except the double pane, non-opening window in the living room (big one on bottom, not the sky-light). This one has bubbles and condensation in it and it actually has about an inch of water standing in it! FREAKY! If I read this right, I have to BREAK the inner pane? Can it be replaced? Please give me the benefit of some experience here! Thanks.
-Don

Don, You need to find out how that water is getting inside the glass. Is that the very big window on the curb side?

cobra93 · 06-20-2006, 08:41 AM

Nope, it's the big one next to the entry door. Is it possible to remove the window, scrape the film and replace the inner pane? I don't really want to go to single pane windows. Thanks.
-Don

Alumaholic · 06-23-2006, 06:09 PM

Just finished de-tinting my roadside stack windows today:

Before and After

AronS · 04-22-2007, 01:55 AM

I have a 1972 Trade Wind with the Vista View windows and heard that the inner panes are installed and removed differently. Anyone have experience or know about the 1972 models?

Thanks,

Aron

ROXYCAMPER · 04-22-2007, 08:48 AM

Stop!!! Don't Break The Inner Pane Of Glass! Read My Threads I Posted A Couple Of Weeks Ago .

wahoonc · 04-22-2007, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asmetana@kar

I have a 1972 Trade Wind with the Vista View windows and heard that the inner panes are installed and removed differently. Anyone have experience or know about the 1972 models?

Thanks,

Aron

Aron,
IIRC the 72 has a snap ring that holds the inner plexiglass window in place. Very easy to remove and clean.

Aaron

welld.geo · 04-22-2007, 11:06 AM

I'm looking at doing all the glass on our 31' Sovereign and was wondering if anyone's tried removing the windows & frame, unpeeling the frame off the glass, cleaning the residue from between the glass and reinstalling? I'm thinking about doing this but am still looking for the appropriate rivet tool. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Erik

wahoonc · 04-22-2007, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by welld.geo

I'm looking at doing all the glass on our 31' Sovereign and was wondering if anyone's tried removing the windows & frame, unpeeling the frame off the glass, cleaning the residue from between the glass and reinstalling? I'm thinking about doing this but am still looking for the appropriate rivet tool. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Erik

Here is a LINK to a thread where someone took the windows apart and redid them. I have suspected that it could be done, but had not taken the time to investigate. Apparently the hardest thing to find is the seal that goes between the glass and the frame. What type of rivet tool are you looking for?

Aaron

welld.geo · 04-23-2007, 05:42 PM

Thanks for the link on the window repair! It's nice to know someone's did this before I attempt.

Quote:

What type of rivet tool are you looking for?

I'm looking at purchasing the rivet tool for the window frames. I haven't done the research yet, but it seems the rivets are the same as the ones holding the skin onto the upright structural members. I realize I'll probably have to do some delaminating of the interior skins to reach some of these, but that will give me time to insulate as well .

wahoonc · 04-23-2007, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by welld.geo

I'm looking at purchasing the rivet tool for the window frames. I haven't done the research yet, but it seems the rivets are the same as the ones holding the skin onto the upright structural members. I realize I'll probably have to do some delaminating of the interior skins to reach some of these, but that will give me time to insulate as well .

The windows are held together with bucked rivets. Basically you put a rivet blank in the hole, hold a hand anvil against the backside and pound the crap out of the front side with a special air gun. They are available from several sources my favorite being Aircraft Spruce or ATS I can highly recommend both companies.

Aaron

welld.geo · 04-24-2007, 04:33 PM

Thanks for the links! I'm going to find out what size rivets I need and get the tools ordered in the next couple of weeks. As teachers we get the option of a "lump sum payment" at the end of May instead of having it put into every check throughout the year. Time to spend some of that moldy cash! Erik

wahoonc · 04-24-2007, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by welld.geo

Thanks for the links! I'm going to find out what size rivets I need and get the tools ordered in the next couple of weeks. As teachers we get the option of a "lump sum payment" at the end of May instead of having it put into every check throughout the year. Time to spend some of that moldy cash! Erik

Erik,
You are welcome for the links. If you need any others just holler.
I grew up around educators (whole fam damily except for me and one brother and that bridges 2 generations

) In NC they do the lump sum crap in some counties and not in others, really whacks you in the pocket book come tax time

Aaron

Zeppelinium · 04-25-2007, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoonc

The windows are held together with bucked rivets. Basically you put a rivet blank in the hole, hold a hand anvil against the backside and pound the crap out of the front side with a special air gun. They are available from several sources my favorite being Aircraft Spruce or ATS I can highly recommend both companies.

After bucking rivets last weekend with Aerowood, I can tell you he's da man when it comes to rivets. Here's what I learned. You can't use a common exhaust system air hammer, you need a special and more controllable tool. He recommends a "3X" air gun (that's a driving power, not a trade name). Then you have to get all the right rivet sets for it (flush, 5/8 round head, etc.).

The following applies to the shell. Maybe to the windows, too. It turns out that the original Airstream rivets, 1/8" round head, are no longer available. In order to get a head that has a similar diameter and crown shape, you need to get 5/32 rivets. Rivet type is MS20470A5-X, where

MS20470 -- airplane, aluminum, defines the right head shape
...........A -- soft, use for patches and low-load structure. Use
..................a harder rivet for skin to stringer or higher load
..................skin-to-skin connections, use "AD". These buggers are
..................harder to drive, let me tell you, but not that difficult.
...........5 -- 5/32 diameter
...........X -- length in 1/32", should be 1.5D protruding through all
..................layers, before bucking. more on computing X after I ask
..................for "further clarification" from the master.

Zep

rburt · 04-25-2007, 11:41 AM

Kleven

I have the same problem on the 76 Ambassador that I just bought. I was planning on "making the break" this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Randy

Radman · 04-25-2007, 01:43 PM

I have been looking at the two dual pane front curved windows in my rig for three months. I am not sure if these are called vista windows or not. I finally got up enough nerve to take a chance and initiate some kind of remedy. I recently removed the two inner front curved windows on my 72 overlander. I do however think they were some form of plexi or hard plastic and not glass. They would retain moisture and looked like hell. I went from dual panes to single panes.

They look so much better.
Here is what I did.

I took a dremel tool w/ a small cutting wheel attached. Made the initial plunge cut in the center of window and moved outward from there. I also set the tool on a little less that half speed. Just enough to let the tool do it's job. On the first one I taped it all up w/ masking tape. I did this tape job because I wasn't sure what the heck was going to happen. After a few six inch cuts I removed the tape since no shattering was evident. After cutting from center to near the edge, I would just pull out the window in very small pieces. I used the same method one would use for cutting a pie. (I hope that makes sense). The sweet thing about this method was that the diameter of the wheel is just less than the distance to the outer front pane. And almost impossible to hurt the outer window.

The little cutting wheels for the dremel are quite thin and make nice fine cuts. You will however break several wheels so have plenty on hand. They are quite nasty little projectiles. The whole job took about 1.5 hrs. including clean up. I am now minus two front curved inner windows but the outers are now shiny and a pleasure to clean and watch the grass grow. They almost look new. Just food for thought.