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Old 03-24-2014, 11:04 AM   #1
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1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
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Corning window replacement.

I recently purchased a 68 Safari that had been sitting for the last 20 years. It needs front and back windows as well as the cool Corning windows,one of each size. My question is first about the flat front and rear windows. What is the recommended thickness and type of glass for these flat windows. Should I get the tempered 1/8 glass?

My next question is about the Corning windows, what windows are the preferred models? I know VTS and Inland have the glass,any preferences,pros or cons?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:11 AM   #2
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You can get the correct glass from several Airstream dealers, as well as VTS. The price at those places is not that bad, and that way you can get what is supposed to go on your trailer.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:32 AM   #3
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Glass

I bought 1/8" Heat Tempered glass with pencil sanded edges that have the 2 bottom corners rounded from my local glass shop for the front and rear flat glass windows. This was in '05 and they only charged me $100.00 total for both pieces of glass. Even now with price increases I think this is still the less expensive route than buy these two pieces from Inland or VTS. Heat Tempered is 3 to 5 times stronger than the original Corning Chemically Tempered glass. It is still Safety glass vs. regular plate so it would break into pebbles (like auto side windows) rather than shards if it were to break. The windows that Inland carries are made to Airstream original specs. I think that both Inland and VTS are the same thickness of 1/8". Last time I looked Inland was at a lower price per piece than VTS. That being said I bought all new glass for my Safari from VTS as they were the only vendor for new curved glass at the time I bought mine. I am very satisfied with my glass purchases. Also it is up to you as to if you install the metal edge trim or not on the glass. The '66 & '67 had no trim and in '68 Airstream added the trim basically to help folks see an opened window rather than bump into the glass edges when walking around a trailer. I think the glass seals better IMO without the trim but it's your choice. Hope this helps. Ed
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:27 AM   #4
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Thanks for the advice,
I just ordered the front and rear glass from my local glass shop,I went with the 1/8 tempered glass. I also ordered one of each of the curved windows. Should be a fun experience.
mike
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:59 PM   #5
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Glass

Mike, What did you think of the difference in price from a local shop for the flat glass versus other vendors? I was really impressed that I could save so much by using a local outlet. The curved glass is a different story but it was still way cheaper than buying used Corning glass from a donor trailer. When I was looking the price of a piece of large glass was $600.00+ and add shipping, then worry if it would arrive intact. Let us know how you make out with the new glass. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
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1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 944
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Hey Ed
I'm looking at both windows for $95 but I'm very lucky,my wife's cousin runs a local shop and is hooking me up. He would have given it to me if it were regular glass. I did order the curved glass from vendor,hopefully it'll arrive in good shape. How hard was it to install the thicker glass in the original channel?
Thanks Ed
Mike
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:17 AM   #7
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Installing glass

Mike, No problem at all installing new glass in the hinge. But to do it the easiest you need two people. One to hold the glass in the clamp while the other person tightens the screws. Oh yeah.... the screws! Make sure you get them loose and remove the clamp from the hinge. Place reinforced double sided tape on the top edge of the glass allowing an equal amount on both sides (this will keep the glass in the clamp/hinge for 40+ years again)! When I did mine I replaced all the screws with stainless steel ones I bought at Fastenal. That way they won't seize up in the aluminum of the hinge anymore. By the way don't try to remove the screws until you have used something to help break the grip of the old steel screws on the aluminum or you will strip or break the heads off the screws. I used a few drops of Muratic Acid. Used an eye dropper to apply a few drops on each screw head and threads if I was able to get to them. Let it set on the screws for 10 minutes then WD-40 or other breaking type oil before trying to loosen the screw. Also I used a posi-drive tipped hand screw driver to break the screws free. Don't use a power screwdriver or drill to break them loose or you might twist the tops off the screws (don't ask me how I know)! You got a deal on the glass as that was about what I paid for mine in '05. Ed
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