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Old 07-06-2014, 05:45 PM   #1
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Corning glass contour and the rubber seal

So I'm re-sealing all of the windows on the '67 and can't get the curved gaps to seal. I have one old piece of curved glass, and one new piece, and I have the same problem on both. It actually seems a bit worse on the original one. With the window closed and no seal, the glass actually touches the window frame on the upper third of the window, and has a gap on the lower third, although it is still slightly recessed in the frame. When the weatherstripping is added, the top third pushes the window out enough that the lower third now sticks out past the frame and doesn't make contact at all with the new seal. I have tried the rubber seal supplied by VTS as well as the one from Inland, and I have the same problem. It looks like I'll have to either trim the thickness down for the top third, or get another thinner seal altogether, using the thicker one for down below. The pictures show the uneven contour, as well as the gap that exists with the VTS seal installed. The hollow one from Inland compresses to about the same thickness as the solid one from VTS. Ideas are appreciated!
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:22 PM   #2
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The little winders on the sill reach out and grab the clips on the bottom of the glass and pull the glass in to seal.
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:26 PM   #3
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Did you change/replace the sill draw/catch/latch clips on the window?
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:38 PM   #4
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The little winders on the sill reach out and grab the clips on the bottom of the glass and pull the glass in to seal. I cannot tell for sure from your images, but is it possible that you are putting the gasket on the sides of the window frame and not the out-facing frame surface??
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:52 PM   #5
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Yes, even with the latches fully pulled in, no dice. I even tried it with no seal on the bottom, just the sides, and pushed the glass on the bottom until it made contact with the frame, and no dice. It's the top third that's causing the problem, i.e. uneven contour. Gotta work around it, because I'm not ordering more glass, and what I have is already installed in the glass bar, which was a PAIN to remove all the old stuff!
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:59 AM   #6
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I just replaced two curved windows on my 67 Caravel and the weather stripping on all the windows. My thinking was to use readily available good quality house weather seal from a box store. I went with the thickest softest real rubber seal I could find. I figured the softer the seal material the easier it will be to compress at the top were the gap is the smallest at least on my trailer. I went with rubber because that was the original material used by Airstream. I went with the box store stuff because of price and availability. The thickest rubber seal material I found at Home Depot was 3/8 inch. For the curved windows I used MD All Climate Rubber Weatherseal #43846 (white) and from the front and back windows I used Frost King EPDM Rubber Weatherseal #V27G (Grey). I mitered the corners and didn't attempt to curve the weather strip around the lower corners I also left a quarter inch gap in the weather stripping along the bottom for drainage. The seal looks pretty good. It has rained several times since the installation and no leaks. I haven't had an opportunity to tow the trailer in downpour. I figure the even if the seal leaks a bit the water will only seep in and then drain out through the gap in the seal. If it leaks more than that it will likely mean the the seal needs to be compressed more which means they need to be thicker. In which case I plan to remove the seal make shims from rubber strips and install a new seal.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:05 AM   #7
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Thanks for sharing, I'll check my local store!



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Old 07-07-2014, 04:46 AM   #8
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have you tried flipping the glass? I had to do this on two windows recently and they fit much better. One did require a thicker seal to make the center seal up however.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:18 AM   #9
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I thought about flipping, but with the glass bar already siliconed in, well, I'd like to avoid that if I can.


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Old 07-07-2014, 09:39 AM   #10
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I had to replace all the curved windows in my 68. The other day I was doing a good clean up of all the glass in preparation for a trip next week. Both of the windows on the curb side do not seal as well in the middle of the curve radius as they do on top and bottom. I used the D-style gasket material. That said, I've never had any real problems with them leaking. The gaskets do touch but barely. I agree, reversing the window is way too much trouble. What I would try is maybe get a piece of old inner tube or flat rubber material and built up the area where the gap is and then use weather stip glue to glue the new gasket down. You don't need to raise the gasket much for it to touch the glass. Might even have to have a couple of layers and step it down to get the fit just right. Over time the D style will flatten out some.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:13 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by KennewickMan View Post
So I'm re-sealing all of the windows on the '67 and can't get the curved gaps to seal. I have one old piece of curved glass, and one new piece, and I have the same problem on both. It actually seems a bit worse on the original one. With the window closed and no seal, the glass actually touches the window frame on the upper third of the window, and has a gap on the lower third, although it is still slightly recessed in the frame. When the weatherstripping is added, the top third pushes the window out enough that the lower third now sticks out past the frame and doesn't make contact at all with the new seal. I have tried the rubber seal supplied by VTS as well as the one from Inland, and I have the same problem. It looks like I'll have to either trim the thickness down for the top third, or get another thinner seal altogether, using the thicker one for down below. The pictures show the uneven contour, as well as the gap that exists with the VTS seal installed. The hollow one from Inland compresses to about the same thickness as the solid one from VTS. Ideas are appreciated!
The "D" shaped gasket is OK.

The rectangular gasket as shown in your post is "NOT GOOD" for your Airstream.

Andy
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:51 PM   #12
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Reversing the glass is a simple one hour job. Two if someone made the mistake of using silicon to seal or install it previously. Double sided carpet tape works best for putting them back in.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by KennewickMan View Post
So I'm re-sealing all of the windows on the '67 and can't get the curved gaps to seal. I have one old piece of curved glass, and one new piece, and I have the same problem on both. It actually seems a bit worse on the original one. With the window closed and no seal, the glass actually touches the window frame on the upper third of the window, and has a gap on the lower third, although it is still slightly recessed in the frame. When the weatherstripping is added, the top third pushes the window out enough that the lower third now sticks out past the frame and doesn't make contact at all with the new seal. I have tried the rubber seal supplied by VTS as well as the one from Inland, and I have the same problem. It looks like I'll have to either trim the thickness down for the top third, or get another thinner seal altogether, using the thicker one for down below. The pictures show the uneven contour, as well as the gap that exists with the VTS seal installed. The hollow one from Inland compresses to about the same thickness as the solid one from VTS. Ideas are appreciated!
This "D" shaped gasket with the triangular hollow in the center is not the gasket to use for your window seals. The "D" shaped gasket from Airstream is all hollow in a "D" shape in the inside and seals just fine on my trailers' glass. I bought it at a local Airstream dealer and it can be found @ all their dealerships as it is the most current door seal material on Airstream trailers. Ed
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:55 PM   #14
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Reversing the glass is a simple one hour job. Two if someone made the mistake of using silicon to seal or install it previously. Double sided carpet tape works best for putting them back in.
1966 glass is held in place with silicone sealer.

1967 and 1968 windows are held in place with double sided tape.

The proper orientation of the window is to have th "BUG" at the bottom.

The "BUG" is a built in identification of the window.

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