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Old 09-25-2004, 12:04 AM   #1
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Exclamation Can't get the window back on!

Argh!

I took the side window off my '71 safari to replace the weather seal. I got it all done nice and neat.

But I cannot get the lip to line up in the groove to get the window set back in place at the top. In fact, I popped the 4 outside rivets off the window lip that goes into the top by binding it wrong.

I had to replace the rivets with standard pop rivets and then trim the inside part so it will close right.

But I still cannot get the groove to line up for some reason.

Any tips?
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Old 09-25-2004, 03:41 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
but I still cannot get the groove to line up for some reason.
Any tips?
Tim, I did the same last year, just as the wind and rain was going to start. It's a bad feeling when that window won't go in, even after 20 tries. I eventually worked out what the problem was. When I sighted along the lip/groove at the top of the window (the one in my hand, not on the body of the coach), I could see that the lip/groove had a slight curve. The groove in the body trim appeared straight, so the two would not fit together. I didn't want to risk buckling the frame or breaking the glass, by pulling on the ends of the window with my knee in the middle of the groove. The solution was to open up the lip of the groove on the window, so that the lip became straight, even though the rest of the extrusion retained its slight curve. I used a large screwdriver blade, gently tapped ALONG the middle section of the groove, sighting along the groove after every few taps. I seem to remember also using pliers or ratchet wrenches to pull the lip gently into a straight line. I kept trying to install the window. I was careful to avoid any kinks in the lip. After about ten minutes careful work, the window slipped back on. I will not be removing any more windows! Good luck. Nick
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Old 09-25-2004, 01:03 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info Nick.

That is exactly the problem. The window track is curved trying to go into a straigt window frame.

I actuall busted off the 2 outside rivets on each side because of this. Even though I was super careful.

I'll give your idea a try. But I have 5 more windows to go!!
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Old 09-25-2004, 03:38 PM   #4
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Tim, you might find it useful to have a yard long rigid steel rule or bar to lay along the lip to check your work. Combining this with occasional eyeing along the lip should lead to a successful conclusion. Good luck! Nick.
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Old 09-25-2004, 05:04 PM   #5
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Reinstalling windows.

Reinstalling windows need not be difficult.

The secret is to engage the two ends of the hinge, and very slightly lower the window about 1/4 inch or so.

Then with your fist, hit the hinge on the window in the middle.

That will engage the center section of the winow, into the eyebrow track.

Now you can complete the lowering of the window, without shearing any rivets.

Try it, you'll like it.

Andy
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Old 09-25-2004, 08:53 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tips. Perhaps if I dare to remove the next window I'll try it.

I ended up removing the hindge entirely and set in place w/o the window.

Next I locked the window in place with the bottom locks. Then I lowered the hindge down and all the holes lined up. I then riveted it back on. Then reglued the upper gasket.

Backwards way to do it but its done. And has made me shy of doing the others.
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Old 09-26-2004, 07:41 AM   #7
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Tim,

Follow Andy's directions. I've had all mine out twice now. First to put on new seals and the just lately, to install window mirror film. now my whole trailer is silver including the windows. I also had a difficult time getting them back on the first time. Required another set of hands and the discovery of the bump trick. Then they just pop in.

Good luck
Loren
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:40 AM   #8
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I'll "third" Andy's advice. I sort of just "discovered" it by accident. I had particular trouble with the big window in front. takes 2 people to support it. but all you have to do is push up in the center, and it'll catch.

also: give the track a good shot of WD. it makes opening the windows easy. I was having trouble opening mine when I first got it, and I just figured that there wasn't enough leverage from the operating arms. I had to put so much force on them to move them, I was afraid I was going to break them, so I usually just opened them by un-doing the latches, and then going outside to lift them. I didn't think the problem could be so simple to solve, but it was.

I also was under the impression that I needed to re-adjust the latches, especially once I got the new gasket on. some of them were always a bit stiff...couldn't close them all the way. turns out, it was the same problem. a little WD-40 on the levers themselves, as well as the shafts that connect them (there's a spring in there), and they work "like butter". (buddah?) even with the new gaskets.

still have 3 windows to go, myself
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:17 AM   #9
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Chuck.

Suggest you use "Stupid spray" (silicone spray) instead of the WD-40.

Works better and lasts much longer. Also doesn't attack the plasticote.

Andy
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Old 09-26-2004, 11:48 AM   #10
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Another Window Question

I haven't gotten to my windows...yet. Gasket is on order. I have a drip cap over the tops of the curved windows that covers the hinge; does that have to be removed? Before sliding the windows out of the track?

Thanks

Aaron

Never mind...I went and looked at Safari Tim's pictures...he has the same drip caps, so I assume that mine will come out and go back in the same way...if I am lucky and the stars are all aligned.

A
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Old 09-26-2004, 06:27 PM   #11
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Well, I guess you all have given me the courage to try again. After all I have 5 more to do and I cannot see doing it with the window on. Since I have to lay it out and use the dremal to get the old gasket off.

I am out of gasket so I have to wait until it shows up to try another one.

Aaron, you figured it out. The window rain gutter does not need to come off. Just remove the window arms and raise the window up 180 degress and it falls out.

Problem is putting it back!

Another tip. The clips that hold the window arms on are very brittle and just break off. I found speed nuts at the local hardware store with a 1/4" ID that work just great for putting it back together. They were 50 cents each. Two per window needed.



Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I haven't gotten to my windows...yet. Gasket is on order. I have a drip cap over the tops of the curved windows that covers the hinge; does that have to be removed? Before sliding the windows out of the track?

Thanks

Aaron

Never mind...I went and looked at Safari Tim's pictures...he has the same drip caps, so I assume that mine will come out and go back in the same way...if I am lucky and the stars are all aligned.

A
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