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Old 07-04-2014, 07:52 PM   #15
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Nice work!

What's an electric miter box? I assume you mean a saw?

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Old 07-04-2014, 11:19 PM   #16
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Build your own rock guard...you can do it!

Mine is a makita compound miter box. It has a plug & a motor as opposed to a hand miter box that is run by your own power :-). That would take a while! Maybe it's a Midwest thing that we call them miter boxes.... But yes, Shelly, it's a saw!


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Old 07-04-2014, 11:31 PM   #17
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Nice fab work!! Great results!


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Old 07-05-2014, 09:58 AM   #18
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Nice work!

Miter box is a term, still commonly used, but left over from the olden days when carpenters actually did build a three sided wooden boxes used with a hand saw to cut mitered joints.
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:30 PM   #19
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Do you think the frame would be strong enough to work with canvas? I was thinking of awning material. Another thing that might work is FRP board. There are lots of different grades and qualities of Lexan out there. Some of it will crack badly and the stuff does get brittle over time. Let us know how it holds up long term. We make bullets out of the stuff at work and we have problems with Lexan cracking. DO NOT USE alcohol based window cleaner on it, including the stuff at the gas station.

I really like the Becky's frame design.

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Old 07-05-2014, 05:34 PM   #20
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Perry. Can you share how to grade and advise best type for guards. I did some reading and some of it can be bent in a break to 90 degrees with a half inch radius without heat. Some can be bought with anti scratch and UV coating. Please enlighten me.
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:51 PM   #21
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I made side windows out of1/4 lexan for case skid steer many yrs. ago still very good cond. So I would like to replace my front window rock guard w/smoked lexan as factory rock guard severely cracked. Any ideas also I will try to follow Beckys post and other postings. A new rock guard is expensive w/high ship chrges. PS I stopped drilled cracks still running. This procedure I used on my airplane windows [not windshield] w/no probs.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:04 PM   #22
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The information on the "Lexan" I used (actually, it's produced by Bayer and called Macrolon GP....the receipt said Lexan....it's polycarbonate, which is what Lexan is) is show on this link:
Sheffield Plastics - Product Information - Sheet Products - Makrolon® (Polycarbonate) - Makrolon® GP

When I say the guy WHALED on the polycarbonate, I mean he slammed his hammer into it! So, short of bullets, I'm pretty confident it'll hold up for a while. He told me they bend it all the time for windshields, etc.
Perry, I'm not sure how the frame would hold canvas. The poly is part of the structure of the frame & holds things stout. My plan is to throw a towel over it if I need shade. I can't stand dark rooms & want to be able to see out of my window, thus the clear. I was also told not to use any ammonia based cleaner, brushes, squeegees, or razors on the poly. Just a soft cloth & dish soap.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
I made side windows out of1/4 lexan for case skid steer many yrs. ago still very good cond. So I would like to replace my front window rock guard w/smoked lexan as factory rock guard severely cracked. Any ideas also I will try to follow Beckys post and other postings. A new rock guard is expensive w/high ship chrges. PS I stopped drilled cracks still running. This procedure I used on my airplane windows [not windshield] w/no probs.
Feather,

After doing just some very preliminary cursory reading last night after reading this thread, I found this on my google search.

McMaster-Carr

I'm familiar with Mcmaster Carr, so I really didn't go much further with my shopping.

More specifically, the semi clear gray, UV resistant and scratch resistant one here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-po...sheets/=spmm68

Hmm, the link doesn't work to the actual page....hit the column "scratch and uv resistant polycarbonite"
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:45 PM   #24
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I don't know of any way to grade Lexan or Polycarbonate as the generic stuff. I would say that quality wise using real Dupont Lexan will probably give you the best results. It is common for the stuff to crack when sawed or sanded. You don't want it to get it hot while cutting. Water is a good coolant but alcohol is not. Maybe Becky can share some secrets of what worked for her. The stuff with the scratch coating is a must for longevity. Otherwise it will degrade and probably fog pretty quickly. We have a lot of problems keeping the stuff from cracking here at NASA. A place that sells a lot of it for window replacements can probably tell you what works and what does not work. It is really good stuff when it does not crack. My motorcycle windshields crack around the bolt holes. Fastening it so there is no stress around screws or rivets is a good idea. If the screw causes an indent, it will eventually crack there. Everything is an experiment.

http://www.plasticsintl.com/document...0Annealing.pdf

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Old 07-05-2014, 10:50 PM   #25
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OK, Perry, so if I wanted to replace the panes in the 3 panels in my newer AS rock guards, which have no fasteners, but just screen spline holding them in place, would the stuff In my prior post flex and insert easily into the curved side guards? Get smoke gray, with uv and scratch coatings?
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:18 PM   #26
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Build your own rock guard...you can do it!

Here's my secret....I used a bandsaw with no special anything to make the curved cuts. I used a regular drill with no special anything to drill. I didn't have a single crack or star in ANY of the drill holes or along the curved cuts. You're making this much more complicated than it needs to be.


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Old 07-06-2014, 06:27 AM   #27
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Love it! Very ingenious! I like that the entire assembly lifts up (mine is only the middle aection). Thanks so much for sharing this.

You mentioned not needing the lower panels - is that because you use rock tamers or something? Just curious.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:02 AM   #28
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Use the same thickness as what is in there now and it should flex just like what is in there. I am still worried about cutting the stuff. A band saw should work. I used a jig saw and it cracked but sometimes the cracks don't show up right away. The longer the stuff has sat around before cutting the more likely it is to crack. I was thinking of something that was not clear and would be less crack prone. Maybe like FRP board used for shower stalls and bathroom walls etc. If you go with Lexan the stuff that Becky sent a link to you know won't crack when you cut it.

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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
OK, Perry, so if I wanted to replace the panes in the 3 panels in my newer AS rock guards, which have no fasteners, but just screen spline holding them in place, would the stuff In my prior post flex and insert easily into the curved side guards? Get smoke gray, with uv and scratch coatings?
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