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Old 04-01-2007, 07:02 PM   #1
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Buffing "Smoked" Acrylite?

We are the proud owners of a "new" 2005 19' Bambi International CCD. One of the cosmetic "fixes" that we want to make is to repair an area on the front "smoked" window cover (rock guard?). It looks as though someone tried to clean the material or remove residue in a roughly 4" x 4" area.

After searching and reading many of the posts on this site (I feel like I know many of you now), I have found some information that comes close to answering my question, but what I'm wondering is if that material (Acrylite?) can be buffed/polished, and would that remove some or all of that "scratching". Is this the material that AS claims can be rubbed with steel wool? If so, that is what looks like was tried for fun and failed. Would Walburnize be an effective remedy?

Thanks for all of your great insight.


Doug Phillips
Eugene, OR
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:06 PM   #2
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Buffing "Smoked" Acrylite?

Greetings Doug!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Airstream ownership!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper
We are the proud owners of a "new" 2005 19' Bambi International CCD. One of the cosmetic "fixes" that we want to make is to repair an area on the front "smoked" window cover (rock guard?). It looks as though someone tried to clean the material or remove residue in a roughly 4" x 4" area.

After searching and reading many of the posts on this site (I feel like I know many of you now), I have found some information that comes close to answering my question, but what I'm wondering is if that material (Acrylite?) can be buffed/polished, and would that remove some or all of that "scratching". Is this the material that AS claims can be rubbed with steel wool? If so, that is what looks like was tried for fun and failed. Would Walburnize be an effective remedy?

Thanks for all of your great insight.


Doug Phillips
Eugene, OR
All of the side windows on my Minuet are Acrylic, and I have found products offered by Aircraft Spruce Company to be among the best care products available. The links below are to some of the products that I have used and found produce good results in cleaning/polishing:
At best, none of these will remove deep scratches, but the last is particularly good with removing surface scratches from too aggressive cleaning. It is important to first try each of these products in an inconspicuous place as they react differently with different plastic forumlations.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:44 PM   #3
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Thanks Kevin. Appreciate the VERY quick reply. One thing I forgot to ask is about application. Would you use an orbital buffer (or similar) to apply the Flight Jacket Plexi-Coat or the Scratch Off Windshield Repair material?

That Aircraft Space resource is dandy. Thanks for the links.

Doug
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:53 PM   #4
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Buffing "Smoked" Acrylite?

Greetings Doug!

I have always done all of my acrylic window cleaning/polishing by hand as I wanted to avoid any possibility of overheating the surface of the plastic -- it probably takes more time, but thus far it has worked well for my needs on the Minuet.

Kevin
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:29 PM   #5
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hi doug...

i cleaned a section of one panel with an abrasive squeegie...

a real dumb move.

i've had good results with the plastic care products from meguiars...

Car Care Products: Car Waxes to Leather Cleaners, Meguiar's the Leader in Car and Surface Care since 1901

specifically these 3 items...

meguiars.com: E-Store /Professional (Mirror Glaze Brand)>Clear Plastic Care

they also make an 'all in one' product called plastix...

these products are very very mildly abrasive...

so it is hard to make the problem worse (that's a good thing)

and they have light fillers that improve the look,

but require repeat application every few months...

not unlike car wax.

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:30 AM   #6
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you might try regular toothpaste and a soft cloth on a small test area.

i have used it on motorcycle wind screens with some success.

john
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:05 AM   #7
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Use the tooth paste. It is the finest rubbing compound you can get. I use to have an airplane that has all plastic windows. The best thing I found to keep them clean is Pledge. If you use it on a regular basis, it makes a protective coating that makes removing the bugs much earier. On the plane I cleaned the windows before each flight and after each flight. Also you should rinse with water before each cleaning. Never use Windex type cleaners on plastic. When you rinse with water use a very soft cloth and touch the window ever so lightly. This is to remove any loose dust. The dust works like fine sand paper if you don't remove it first. This seems like a lot of work. I was able to keep the windows on my plane good for the 18 years I owned it. Also when cleaning plastic always use light pressure. It takes time, but remember time is money.
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Old 04-02-2007, 10:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper
We are the proud owners of a "new" 2005 19' Bambi International CCD. One of the cosmetic "fixes" that we want to make is to repair an area on the front "smoked" window cover (rock guard?). It looks as though someone tried to clean the material or remove residue in a roughly 4" x 4" area.

After searching and reading many of the posts on this site (I feel like I know many of you now), I have found some information that comes close to answering my question, but what I'm wondering is if that material (Acrylite?) can be buffed/polished, and would that remove some or all of that "scratching". Is this the material that AS claims can be rubbed with steel wool? If so, that is what looks like was tried for fun and failed. Would Walburnize be an effective remedy?

Thanks for all of your great insight.


Doug Phillips
Eugene, OR
Good posts above.
It's my understanding that Lexan is the material you were refering to that you can use steel wool on. I would assume that would be a fine steel wool.
Dave
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:57 PM   #9
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I worked on subway cars and we went through alot of lexan from graffiti and the car wash schedule the fleet maintained - meaning I fished more than a few pieces out of the dumpster. Once you get the polycarbonate with pits and swirls it gets hard to see through when there is any glare from light sources. Rainex cures it admirably, fills the pores and such. Remember its for ugly plexiglass only - the stuff is persistent and I'd never recommend it for new plastics, but for a final glaze on that 4"x4" segment it may help it become invisible...
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:26 PM   #10
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Novus Plastic Polish......

......comes in 3 grades and does a really nice job on most acrylics. There is also a product developed for the aircraft industry called MicroMesh that includes a couple of polishing agents and about 8 grades of abrasive papers going as fine as 4000grit. It's so smooth it feels like regular paper, but it does a great job when you follow the complete instructions.
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