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Old 03-03-2012, 06:23 PM   #1
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Sodbust's Avatar
1972 27' Overlander
Penokee , Kansas
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 339
Unhappy '72 Overlander window sealing...????

Hello all my new friends..

A full week into my new project,( 72 27' Overlander ), and have the wheels painted/ new bearings and seals / new tires/and belly pan fixed / wheel wells all sealed and fixed up and ready for the road.

Now we are looking at the massive body and the 100's of hours of labor ahead of me to polish and seal... ( No known leaks,, or signs of any)

I have spent days reading old posts here about sealing the windows,, and just when I feel I have it all figured out,, the next post I read tells a different story.. I'm so messed in the head right now and I just felt it better to start all over again with a new post..

What product is best to reseal the glass to the metal frame? My first pick before reading here of all the options would to grab the silicone.. WRONG-O..

Some say Parr Parbond,, others say to use Aluminum gutterseal,,, and others say to use Vulkem or Sikoflex.....

Most folks just say to take your time and lay out a nice bead,, others say to use masking tape and trim the area first to have a nice square edge.. Others tell that the tape does not work as it tares the "dope" when it comes off..

HELP,, my head is about to explode!

Sodbust NW Kansas..

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Old 03-03-2012, 07:19 PM   #2
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,169
Images: 25
You don't mention which windows you are worried about, but perhaps you can get a few ideas from this episode of a great series on refurbing an AS of the vintage you have.

If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:27 AM   #3
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1975 27' Overlander
Elkton , Maryland
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 147
I am doing a 75 overlander and feeling the same way. I am sure there are a lot of good ways to do the job but like you I want to do it right the first time. I was also wondering how many ft of new rubber seal will be needed to replace on all the window's and doors. there also seems to be a controversy over weather to use the original type of gasket seals or the D type gasket seals.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:15 PM   #4
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1979 31' Sovereign
Wabash , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 86
Images: 1
I have a 1979 31' land yacht. I just ordered 80' of window seal (old type), a door seal and a screen door seal. I count 7 windows on mine. Out of doors mart sells it per foot or per window, I would rather cut it myself n have a little extra than be short. If you look at the per window pages there was a pic with measurements also to help get a better idea. I ordered it yesterday 5.14 and it should be here 5.17 according to the tracking info. Only help I can offer on dealing with them is when I tried to order last week and again yesterday my cart kept getting emptied, once when I went to measure the windows, and again when I was browsing their site. Be sure to write down your items, quantities, price, and part #'s in case you need to just call it in.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:57 AM   #5
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1971 27' Overlander
Central , Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
Images: 13
On the outer edge of the window to body we used parbond on the bottom and up the sides until it met the original vulkem/sikaflex that ran across the top and down each side. Once the parbond set up I ran new vulkem across the top and down each side 3 or 4 inches - whatever matched where the original vulkem sealer was. Both done using the original tubes with no tape. Any sealant that got out on the metal window frame was cleaned off using the tip of a finger and a smooth cloth (t shirt) soaked in mineral spirits. That came out fine.

Your may have to go back over the parbond once it sets - depending on the gap and how much it wicked into place - to get an even bead.

For the glass to frame. I have 3 windows that need done this year. Trying to tape those off seems like way to much effort to me. Also, if you've worked with vulkem you know how sticky the stuff it so I don't plan to get tape anywhere near that product. Working with a full size tube would seem too difficult in those tight curves and applying such a small bead. My thought is to use vulkem but apply it with syringes you can purchase from Vintage Trailer Supply. Apply it straight on to the seam (don't pull or push the sealant into the joint).

Hope that doesn't add to your confusion.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:12 AM   #6
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1979 31' Sovereign
Wabash , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 86
Images: 1
My thought is to use vulkem but apply it with syringes you can purchase from Vintage Trailer Supply. Apply it straight on to the seam (don't pull or push the sealant into the joint).
We have been using the syringes that came with my daughters infant medicine drops. Around here farm stores like TSC, Rural King, & Big R sell syringes every day in the live stock meds sections(usually near a fridge, as well as if I go to Walmart there are medicine dosage kits with those, spoons & stoppers for $2 or less. Usually over by the pharmacy, pill cutters, pill cases. If you don't need to place an actual order it might save on S&H & be cheaper.

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