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Old 06-18-2014, 02:48 PM   #1
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1971 31' Sovereign
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'71 Sovereign street side wing window install

I'm having a tough time with this one, here's the situation. I ordered a replacement window. I have 5/32 olympic rivets and grey vulkem for the seal (or should i use 3m Tape). When i place the window into the frame I first tried putting the lock bar on and hammering it into place, but when i do that the window moves too far down in the frame and the existing holes are not even close. Does anyone have any pointers on this? i'm going to guess that riveting the window in place and then trying to put the locking bar on would be a very bad idea. Also whats the best way to get that lock bar to slide down without beating it to death?
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:53 PM   #2
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Also it seems that if the locking bar is on all the way, the corners of the window have a great distance in between the window and the skin, again what would be the best method to close the gap without beating it to death?
existing holes that are large and in rough shape, can i place washers on the back side for the rivets to take better hold?
Last question, the wholes on the new window seem like they are smaller than the 5/32 olympic rivets is that the norm, i take it i'm suppose to drill them out when i'm drilling new rivet holes?
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:14 PM   #3
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Never mind trying to match up the existing rivet holes. I would use the new window frame as a guide and drill new holes. The locking bar is a bugger. Worse comes to worse don't install it. It will be OK.

I did this repair once. Hope never again. Maybe someone else who knows what they are talking about will disagree.

PS Ambient outside temperature may have just enough expansion contraction affect to get the job done, Maybe.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:55 PM   #4
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Cleco the window in place and then put some lubricant on the slide mating surfaces and it will ease the installation. Aluminum washers on the shanks of the Olympic rivets is a good idea.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Cleco the window in place and then put some lubricant on the slide mating surfaces and it will ease the installation. Aluminum washers on the shanks of the Olympic rivets is a good idea.
So after taking your advise I lubed up the locking bar with WD40 and hammered it into place, the took some rubber strips and hammered the edges down so they were someone flush with the skin, except the bottom lip gap that was kinda large. Drilled my new holes for my rivets, then masking taped around the edges where i didnt want vulkem, pumped vulkem all around the edges. Then I rivetted the four corners of the window. I was very suprised that the gap underneath went away very quick with just the first 4 rivets, and I stopped freaking out. All said and done, what a pain in the butt, but everything looks real nice and my seal seems to be good.

Can anyone tell me why olympic shavers are so crazy expensive!?! I will using a dremel instead of the $235 shaver I cant justify buying right now. Also will i have any repercussions of using WD 40 on aluminum?
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Old 06-19-2014, 06:27 PM   #6
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I wouldn't worry to much about the WD-40, It may collect dirt as you go down the road so just clean it up with a liberal amount of a degreasing solvent of your choice. You also may want to seal the very top of the slide as water can enter at that point.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:45 AM   #7
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After further review the olympic shaver is $230, the buck rivet set is like $240 so it makes more sense to buy the buck rivet kit. so I may end up replacing these olympic rivets, not sure yet but here is the before and after, I think i used the wrong Vulkem, is there a difference in the Vulkem and the Tempro Vulkem?

Before


After
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:13 PM   #8
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I apolgize if this is an obvious question but are the replacement wing windows single pain? Glass or Lexan?
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:18 PM   #9
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Single, pretty sure it's tempered glass

http://www.airstreamsupply.com/Wing-...1983-P120.aspx


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