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Old 12-01-2009, 08:12 AM   #15
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Congratulations on the new trailer! What is the condition of the inside?
The bathroom is in great shape. Except for water damage to the furniture under the 2 missing windows everything looks very good. The floor seems solid although I have not peeked under the shag rug. The condition of the appliances are unknown. Upholstery will need to be redone. Has front dinette and rear gaucho.

Not sure what I'm going to do with this baby. Other than replacing the missing windows to seal her up to the weather she probably will be a lawn ornament for a while. Pretty straightforward to restore to original. Or, I've always wanted to paint the inside of an AS with a copy of the Sistine Chapel. Could also be for sale if anyone knows anyone looking for one.
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:37 AM   #16
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Sounds like you got a good one! There is a post on the forums about taking the window hardware apart, cleaning it and re-installing it. If the hardware is rusted or doesn't work well, you may want to look at the post.

I would go with replacement glass instead of lexan. Just to keep it more authentic and to be extra sure there are no leaks. The windows on that vintage tend to leak if they are not sealed well.

Please post some interior pics when you get a chance
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:58 AM   #17
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The flexibility of the Lexan may cause the windows to leak, whereas the rigid tempered glass will provided a tighter seal.
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:01 AM   #18
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Interior

I could use some cranks for the window operators
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:06 AM   #19
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I had to replace all the windows in my 68 Trade Wind. The plexi that a PO had installed was cracked and leaked. I got my glass from Inland. Expensive, yes, but the quality is good and with new gaskets (included with the windows) the leaks are fixed. For the flat glass I went to a local glass shop and ordered tempered the same size as the old. IIRC they were around $20/each.
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:11 AM   #20
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Another thought, when you remove the old plexi, be very careful and don't pry on any of the frame parts. They are easy to bend. If the PO has used silicone or worst to attach the plexi to the top frame, it can be very difficult to remove. I found that very carefully heating the glue with a propane torch would make it soft enough to separate the parts. I then used a Dremel with scotch brite bobs to clean the tracks where the glass is clamped. I used double side tape to hold the new glass in and new stainless steel screws.
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:14 AM   #21
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Lift mechanism parts are still available for the 66,67,68 windows, (no hinges though) but the device that grabs the window clip and holds the glass to the frame are only available used, waiting to see if someone can come up with a substitute..anyone?
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:24 AM   #22
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Yep! You can still get them. Philips Windows Rack Operator.
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:48 AM   #23
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Corning glass shattered -- redux

Wow, Silverleeper -- I'm impressed that you found that old thread from years ago when I was trying to find a suitable Lexan replacement for my curved Corning glass windows.

Quite a coincidence too. This morning I am in my 1968 Caravel for the first time in five years (long renovation!), in Albuquerque, having just heard the sound of the front window shattering as I slept. For the record, it's quite a loud bang. Woke me up rather abruptly at 4:24 a.m. (Temperature: 30 degrees)

Well, that was the last original window in the trailer, I hope. I believe we replaced all three of the curved side windows during the renovation. The rear window may be original, but I won't know until daybreak when I can see the glass stamp.

My experiment way back in 2004 (?) when was promising but incomplete. After I did my home experiment with an oven, some Lexan, and a crude mold, I took larger pieces over to a friend's industrial oven and tried for a full size window. We weren't able to get the proper temperature and our tests wrinkled up during cooling. I ended the experiment because I had heard that VTS was coming out with real glass replacements soon, which they later did. Since then, Inland RV has also been supplying excellent replacements.

For this front window I will try local glass shops. I'm on the road, it's cold, and I need glass immediately. I'll post more on this on my blog later Monday or Tuesday. With all new glass in my Caravel, maybe I won't have to worry about this particular problem ever again ...
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:46 AM   #24
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Replacement glass-my experience

The original Corning glass was 3/32" thick and all I was able to obtain from a local glass shop (I checked with many) was 1/8" thick tempered. I ordered a piece for my rear window replacement and ran across a problem with the install. The hinge that the glass fits into to has a slot that is more of a 'V" shape than a "u" shape so the extra 1/32" of thickness prevented the glass from seating as far in the groove. Of course I did not discover this until I had installed and glued the glass in the groove! The glass not seating in the groove caused it to hang down too far causing the closing clamps to interfere with the window closing all the way. So, I had to take everything back apart (no easy task) clean the adhesive out the groove and ran a 1/8" drill up and down the groove kind of like an end mill. This allowed the window to seat ever so slightly farther into the groove alleviating the fitment problem. If I need to do this ever again, I would order the glass about 1/8 to 3/16" less from top to bottom to prevent having to do the 'mill' work.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:47 PM   #25
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The original Corning glass was 3/32" thick and all I was able to obtain from a local glass shop (I checked with many) was 1/8" thick tempered. I ordered a piece for my rear window replacement and ran across a problem with the install. The hinge that the glass fits into to has a slot that is more of a 'V" shape than a "u" shape so the extra 1/32" of thickness prevented the glass from seating as far in the groove. Of course I did not discover this until I had installed and glued the glass in the groove! The glass not seating in the groove caused it to hang down too far causing the closing clamps to interfere with the window closing all the way. So, I had to take everything back apart (no easy task) clean the adhesive out the groove and ran a 1/8" drill up and down the groove kind of like an end mill. This allowed the window to seat ever so slightly farther into the groove alleviating the fitment problem. If I need to do this ever again, I would order the glass about 1/8 to 3/16" less from top to bottom to prevent having to do the 'mill' work.
The 67 and 68 window hinges, come apart.

The new window is installed, in those years, using thin double sided tape, therefore using the 1/8 inch thick glass, offers no installation problems.

The 1966 hinge however, since it does not come apart, must be cleaned out with a 1/8 inch drill bit, so that the glass can slip into the hinge, and held in place with silicone sealer.

Installing replacement glass in a 67 or 68 opening window, is a hands down deal.

Andy
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:09 PM   #26
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The 67 and 68 window hinges, come apart.

The new window is installed, in those years, using thin double sided tape, therefore using the 1/8 inch thick glass, offers no installation problems.

The 1966 hinge however, since it does not come apart, must be cleaned out with a 1/8 inch drill bit, so that the glass can slip into the hinge, and held in place with silicone sealer.

Installing replacement glass in a 67 or 68 opening window, is a hands down deal.

Andy
Interesting, as mine is a 67 and it did not come apart. Maybe it's an early 67 model and used the 66 style window.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:24 PM   #27
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Interesting, as mine is a 67 and it did not come apart. Maybe it's an early 67 model and used the 66 style window.
Very possible, and a could be too.

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Old 12-07-2009, 11:32 PM   #28
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When I prepped the 66 overlander to take to Rob, one of the conditions of the trade was replacing the broken glass. Ordered the window from Inland (it was the large one). Came well packaged, with the weatherstrip, and the short drill bit. This was helpful too because the plexi the guy had installed (which yes did flex and leak) was installed with silicone. Had the non-serviceable hinge, which cleaned out in just a couple minutes with a drill and the provided bit. A little sealer and it was in place and worked great.
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