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Old 10-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #1
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'66 '67 '68 windows blinds covering treatment

66 67 68 windows blinds covering treatment


1968 GT resto-mod


Spent nearly three years of stare-downs with my Philips Corning windows, wondering how to cover, yet maintain original window/wall contour, and follow a Minimalist theme.


During the complete dis-assembly, clean, tape, gasket, calk, rebuild cranks... All windows restoration, I had a long time to inspect and contemplate... How to make neat window covers? Mini-blinds? Fabric? Snaps? Clips? Fasteners? Retainers? Roll-up? Side channels? Bottom-up? Top-down? Magnetic tape? Bamboo roller? Side to side slide? Center partition? Employ original curtain rails or delete?


I immensely dislike blinds/curtains hanging down onto kitchen faucets to the point that I would rather leave the kitchen window uncovered.


Worked through a dozen marginally adequate ideas... No Joy!


Searched and searched, but I never found where anyone had stumbled onto a viable solution. Maybe some others already know. Took me years of staring, but my Eureka Moment came...


Micro Blinds will fit neatly inside window frames and perfectly maintain contour of shell/wall/window.


With screens in their ordinary placement, the bottom blind rail does not need to be secured, it rests atop the latches without interference to their function. Blind go up and down, slats open and close, louver angle adjustment functions, and the window fully operates. The screen supports the lowered blind nicely in a breeze and during travel. The micro-blind head rail fits deeply into the window head cavity so that when in fully raised position, the clustered slats do not block light transmission. All of the glass is in view.


An inconspicuous snip to back end of micro-blind head rail to clear the window bar actuator and three screws into the back of top screen frame rail. No need to drill into or alter original Airstream window frame. May try Velcro or foam tape instead of screws to preserve originality of screen frame.


Pictured with standard grey plastic screen. Thinking about "invisible" screen.

I suppose this kitchen appears a bit sparse for most cooks. Dinette, microwave and refrigerator on street side.


Kitchen was test window. Operated well on ten day 1500mi Upper Peninsula tour. Will continue study and apply findings to all windows.


Double Happy!!
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:58 PM   #2
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What a great idea...

Where were you in 2008-9 when we were rebuilding SteSpot? We do have mini blinds above the sink and the rear bath window but they are mounted on the outside......hmmm....am thinking that it might be worth replacing.....

We used curtains on the other windows and I am happy with the warmth they provide.....

Thanks for sharing your great idea. Paula
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:35 PM   #3
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I like the look. Was wondering about your sink. Is is a handle, faucet, handle, soap dispenser and the sprayer. Looks busy but very clean.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:46 PM   #4
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very neat idea!!!!!!!!!! May just give that a try as well.

where did you get them and who makes them?

Kevin
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:15 PM   #5
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Paula & Ed I do recognize a rhetorical question but will explain that in 2008/9, owning an Airstream was still just a twinkle in my eye. Late 2010 was my '68 GT purchase date.
Thanks for comments. '68s RULE!


Hittenstiehl
The array on the sink deck does include a sprayer, which is integral to the glacier bay faucet, and not easily deleted from the snap-in supply hoses design. With the tall faucet I can fill a 5gal pail. The top loading soap dispenser by kohler, is convenient and solves liquid soap storage. The 25 x 22 single basin kindred sink with corner drain provides useful wet-prep area for dressing road-kill. The corner drain places the trap close to the wall so sink cabinet base does not extend beyond wheelhouse below, allowing big foot room. I re-sawed all the original ash gauchos, closet partitions, and doors to fabricate a different interior configuration. Still working out design detail.


Kevin ...
blindschalet was the on-line supplier. I don't know if bali, levelor or any other wouldn't work as well. I only ordered one so I could prototype. It was $40 well spent. I ordered them 1/2 wider (16 1/8) than the inside of the window flange, but I think that it could be 1/8 less than that inside width because it turned out that the screen frame supports the blind, not the window frame. I removed some slats so that there are no stacked extras at bottom. Good Luck.


Peace, Wm
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:36 PM   #6
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Micro blinds look awesome. Clean and easy.

In case you were wondering.. Our 67 had a roller in bath and on kitchen window. Rest had Curtains. I like all in cabin to look the same though.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #7
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Lauren / Adam

Thanks, I never knew, but always wondered what the original kitchen window cover was... No remains from the PO.

I do still have a fully functioning original embossed vinyl bath roll-up shade with fringe and mint valence that I will retain for its preservation value, In fact, the entire bath is in near flawless condition and will be mostly preserved. I really like the '67 and '68 bath, although I'm baffled by the late sixties "hide the toilet' design of the padded toilet cover and backrest.

Thanks again, Wm
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:01 AM   #8
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How do you access blinds controls through screen?
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:04 PM   #9
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Hi There,

I did snip a few screen threads to put the controls through. The slits hold up just fine. I intended to put eyelets there eventually. I took a picture of the slit detail, but it's too invisible, cannot distinguish. I am going to experiment further on current grey fiberglass screen. I have a roll of invisible screen for the final install.

After a 1500mi bounce around the UP, they held up as installed, no problems... There may be improvements to this idea by finding a way to affix or locate the blind's bottom rail to the window winder covers or ?, as gravity can disrupt the function if trailer is not level. I think this a problem that all blinds have unless the bottom rail is attached to the sill. I see an easy solution, but haven't bothered as it has not been a nuisance.

Good luck if you proceed.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:25 PM   #10
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Thank you for your update

Frankly I had not considered the control of the blinds and now am happy that that is not going to be an issue.

I think the look is great. And in the rear bath window, it will be great. That one is not curved but having it behind the screen will be very nice.

Thank you for posting your idea.....paula
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:00 PM   #11
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That is a great idea! I do not have a problem with the traditional curtains on the front and big side windows, but my kitchen has a pull down blind, as does with the bathroom. This seems like an excellent solution for replacing those. And since mine are original and worn out, and I have been thinking about replacing them for some time, it seems like your post is perfect timing for me
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:03 PM   #12
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BTW, that is a super nice remodel you've done there!
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:52 PM   #13
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Our micro blinds were installed today

They look sooooooooooo good. Thank you so much for posting your great idea. We put them in the bathroom and the kitchen sink area. The difference is huge....we had mini blinds outside the screen before. This makes the bathroom look so much bigger and hopefully my tooth paste won't spatter the new blinds....I need to be more careful.


During the installation, we found the little pivot part that attaches to the window glass itself that cranks out the window is worn and needs to be replaced.....anyone have a source for that part?


Thanks again. I hope to post photos of our new blinds soon. paula
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:08 PM   #14
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Thanks

Seems we're lucky that microblinds exist. My installation is holding up well. I photographed some detail of the snips required to the headrail and screen. I found that the top slat was sometimes able to interfere with the window mechanism, so I snipped that back a bit. I planned to button-hole or eyelet where the controls pass through the screen, but other AS projects are taking precedence. Another thing I'm thinking to do is attach an alignment/locator type bracket to the bottom of the blinds where I drew some red lines in the photo. They might help the blinds rest perfectly centered in the window frame when the trailer is parked off level.


If you have any ideas on how to improve this installation, I'm all ears. It's in the early stage of development. I'm not sure what the optimum blind width would be, with respect to how deep it fits into the window frame sides, or to just let it equal the width of the screen.



I think those worn parts that you need are still available. Otherwise, drill them out a little and make some bushings.



Happy Trails, Wm
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