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10-02-2006, 12:38 AM
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#1
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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'60s Window questions
I'm trying to get my trailer sealed up before the rains come.
These windows look a little questionable to me. The first photo is an overview. The second one is a close up of the corner. All my windows look this way. There is a hard plastic peice that doesn't quite make it all the way around. And what appears to be some kind of dried up material in the corner.
What is the proper way to fix this? Also, what is window glazing?
Thanks in advance!
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10-02-2006, 05:18 AM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
NewCastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 55
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Tim,
My 65 has the strips butting up to make a mitered corners all around.
Tbrom
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10-02-2006, 05:54 AM
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#3
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Tim, maybe I can help a little. IIRC, window glazing refers to the window glass. Glazing compound refers to the putty-like material that holds the glass in the frame. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.
That plastic stuff on the outside, is it decorative or does it appear to actually hold the glass snug against the frame? I seem to remember years ago that you could buy it at the hardware store. Maybe try a window/glass repair shop?
Jim
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10-02-2006, 06:49 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,116
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I've got the same issue
AKA Ambassador Tim, my Ohio '60 Tradewind has the same problem. I don't believe the windows have ever been touched, removed, reglazed, or regasketed. However, I've never had any leaks and there is no evidence of past leaks. But it looks shoddy. Was this a way for the factory to cut corners? If anyone knows why our windows are like this, or has appropriate solution, I would also be interested.
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10-02-2006, 08:09 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1963 19' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Orion
, Illinois
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 714
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Think you need this.
Your windows look like the ones on my '63 Globetrotter which had the same glazing strip. You can get what you need to replace this from Vintage Trailer Supply. I believe you need the Hehr Hall-Mark 12 glazing strip. The glass is set into the frame in a bedding tape that they also sell.
It is a fairly easy job to replace this glazing strip. Just pull out the old stuff, clean the channel it was in and install the new using a thin flexible putty knife to get the new strip in. I mitered the corners and sealed the joint with silicone(Red Devil has a grey silicone caulk the matches the color).
Don't mess with the glass unless you have to.
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10-02-2006, 08:11 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
, Utah
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 90
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Hi Tim,
Just recently discovered The VAP. Finished #20 this morning and I've listen too the 3 most recent ones too. Great Podcast!
I have a '59 Tradewind with the same problem. There are original gaskets that have shrunk over the past 40+ years. They do need to be replaced because they are hard and dried out, can leakespecially if it happens along the top edge, and just plain look bad. On mine, my father in law (the PO) put chaulking on the bare spots to keep them from leaking. I'm hoping to replace them once spring comes.
__________________
Rod
'59 Tradewind 24'
(looking for a tow vehicle to replace the bicycle )
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10-02-2006, 08:12 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,445
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The windows on our '60 Caravel look the same. I would imagine that when new, the glazing strip fit but shrunk over time. A PO kindly filled the gaps on our windows with lots and lots of silicone caulk. I have all the supplies to fix the windows, courtesy of Vintage Trailer Supply. Just haven't been motivated to get to work on it yet!
__________________
Mel
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10-02-2006, 09:50 AM
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#8
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Great info guys.
I kind of thought it should go all the way to a mitered corner.
So the glazing tape, holds the window in and the glazining bead, which is the part I pictured, helps shed water and gives it a finished look.
After looking at Vintage Trailer Supply, I see they have a bead for '58 - '60 and a different one for '61 on. So they say its best to check yours first.
While I have your attention, I going to replace the weather gasket on the window frame at the same time. It looks like the best way is to remove the window. To do that, do you simply remove the 4 screws on the opening operators and lift the window up until it drops out of the hinge?
Thanks for the info everyone!
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10-02-2006, 12:46 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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there's usually (on mine anyway) a very small "set screw" at the middle/top of the hinge, keeps the window from sliding side to side. When I replaced my gaskets I removed the screw and slid the window out sideways . . . I didn't even try to raise the window high enough so that it would "drop out" of the hinge. Hope it works that way, otherwise you'll have to remove the screw.
Good Luck, MarkR
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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10-02-2006, 12:51 PM
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#10
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Mark,
Can it slide out with the rain gutter in place?
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10-02-2006, 02:28 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
, Utah
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 90
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Hi Tim,
I had a couple of my windows out a few days ago. (My windows just missed the dip rail as I as sliding them around. I was replacing the screws that hold the window crank in. I am slowly replacing all the old rusting screws which stainless steel. The ones I used on the window cranks are allen heads and they sure look good, a more finished look then a phillips head.
P.S. If ayone has a lead on a 1959 window crank I have a broken one that would be nice to fixed before the snow flies.
__________________
Rod
'59 Tradewind 24'
(looking for a tow vehicle to replace the bicycle )
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10-02-2006, 02:39 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rschulz
. . . I'm hoping to replace them once spring comes.
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Right. I bought the glazing bead and the bedding tape two years ago, and still have it coiled up in the garage.
The corners on my '59 have shrunk at least an inch in each corner. And the original bead is as stiff as a popsickle stick. The new stuff is very flexible, feels like silicone rubber.
I get around to it someday. None of my windows leak around the glass, so it's probably one of those things that can wait till I hit the road.
Installed my air conditioner today!
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10-02-2006, 02:48 PM
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#13
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Installed my air conditioner today!
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Don,
Tell me about your air install? What unit did you go with? If a roof mount, did you have to re-enforce ther roof, or did you already have an original A/C and just replaced it?
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10-02-2006, 04:44 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Tim,
I have a Penguin 13,500, with the CCC and heat strip. There was no A/C previously.
I framed the opening while I had all the interior skins out last year, and put in the drain tube and 120Vac/12Vdc/thermostat wiring. I placed the opening about 6" behind the front 14x14 vent opening.
The framing I used was 1 1/2" aluminum channel, and 1/8" aluminum shim to match the curvature of the roof.
I needed to modify the gasket on the bottom of the AC to clear the condensate drainage channels.
If you plan to go the Penguin with drain tube route, let me know, there are some other mods you shoudl know about that aren't worth talking about here.
Here are some pictures of the opening and finished install.
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10-02-2006, 04:54 PM
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#15
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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As usual, very nice work Don!
I'll PM you with additiional questions.
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10-02-2006, 06:30 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
MILAN
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,013
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Removing 66', 67', And 68' Windows
Tim, If you look on the VintageTrailerSupply Website under windows, then under replacement windows for these three years, Steve H. has kindly made available the instructions on how to remove the old glass and reinstall new glass for all three type windows hinge configurations. You can just print them out! Yours will most likely be the type #3 window clamps and hinges which are the most owner friendly type of the three. Those are the same ones on my trailer and on Ingrids' tailer (Pinkflamingoes). There are two or three threads under the Windows, Skylights, and Vents section here on the forums that she and I have been sharing our experiences on replacing these windows. I hope this is the information you need and good luck! Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab SLE
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
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10-02-2006, 07:57 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1960 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
1998 25' Safari
Avonton
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Mark,
Can it slide out with the rain gutter in place?
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Tim, there is a screw at the ends of the rain gutter. Remove one and the end of the gutter will bend up slightly and allow the window to slide out. They don't lift up and come off the track.
The glass is held in with the glazing tape which seals against water, the grey bead is more for looks.
I found the tape at a window repair shop. I had 3 broken windows to figure this out.
__________________
Doug & Terry
VAC - TAC ON-1
60 Ambassador Int.
1950 Spartan
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10-02-2006, 08:42 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,116
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I appreciate all the info here, thanks everyone. Interesting, never realized it could be a shrinkage problem. Now I have one more thing on my list to order from VTS. Oh man, will my list never end?
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10-02-2006, 09:03 PM
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#19
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Interesting Doug,
I wondered why the ends had screws instead of rivets!
Good info everyone, thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shacksman
Tim, there is a screw at the ends of the rain gutter. Remove one and the end of the gutter will bend up slightly and allow the window to slide out. They don't lift up and come off the track.
The glass is held in with the glazing tape which seals against water, the grey bead is more for looks.
I found the tape at a window repair shop. I had 3 broken windows to figure this out.
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10-02-2006, 10:42 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1960 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
1998 25' Safari
Avonton
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Interesting Doug,
I wondered why the ends had screws instead of rivets!
Good info everyone, thanks!
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Tim I replaced the rusty screws with olympic rivets, shaved them and they looked great. Then when I went to remove the windows I had to drill out the rivets . You can save that step!
__________________
Doug & Terry
VAC - TAC ON-1
60 Ambassador Int.
1950 Spartan
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