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Old 10-02-2006, 01:38 AM   #1
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'60s Window questions

I'm trying to get my trailer sealed up before the rains come.

These windows look a little questionable to me. The first photo is an overview. The second one is a close up of the corner. All my windows look this way. There is a hard plastic peice that doesn't quite make it all the way around. And what appears to be some kind of dried up material in the corner.

What is the proper way to fix this? Also, what is window glazing?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:18 AM   #2
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Tim,
My 65 has the strips butting up to make a mitered corners all around.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:54 AM   #3
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Tim, maybe I can help a little. IIRC, window glazing refers to the window glass. Glazing compound refers to the putty-like material that holds the glass in the frame. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

That plastic stuff on the outside, is it decorative or does it appear to actually hold the glass snug against the frame? I seem to remember years ago that you could buy it at the hardware store. Maybe try a window/glass repair shop?

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Old 10-02-2006, 07:49 AM   #4
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I've got the same issue

AKA Ambassador Tim, my Ohio '60 Tradewind has the same problem. I don't believe the windows have ever been touched, removed, reglazed, or regasketed. However, I've never had any leaks and there is no evidence of past leaks. But it looks shoddy. Was this a way for the factory to cut corners? If anyone knows why our windows are like this, or has appropriate solution, I would also be interested.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:09 AM   #5
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Think you need this.

Your windows look like the ones on my '63 Globetrotter which had the same glazing strip. You can get what you need to replace this from Vintage Trailer Supply. I believe you need the Hehr Hall-Mark 12 glazing strip. The glass is set into the frame in a bedding tape that they also sell.

It is a fairly easy job to replace this glazing strip. Just pull out the old stuff, clean the channel it was in and install the new using a thin flexible putty knife to get the new strip in. I mitered the corners and sealed the joint with silicone(Red Devil has a grey silicone caulk the matches the color).

Don't mess with the glass unless you have to.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:11 AM   #6
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Hi Tim,
Just recently discovered The VAP. Finished #20 this morning and I've listen too the 3 most recent ones too. Great Podcast!

I have a '59 Tradewind with the same problem. There are original gaskets that have shrunk over the past 40+ years. They do need to be replaced because they are hard and dried out, can leakespecially if it happens along the top edge, and just plain look bad. On mine, my father in law (the PO) put chaulking on the bare spots to keep them from leaking. I'm hoping to replace them once spring comes.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:12 AM   #7
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The windows on our '60 Caravel look the same. I would imagine that when new, the glazing strip fit but shrunk over time. A PO kindly filled the gaps on our windows with lots and lots of silicone caulk. I have all the supplies to fix the windows, courtesy of Vintage Trailer Supply. Just haven't been motivated to get to work on it yet!
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:50 AM   #8
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Great info guys.

I kind of thought it should go all the way to a mitered corner.

So the glazing tape, holds the window in and the glazining bead, which is the part I pictured, helps shed water and gives it a finished look.

After looking at Vintage Trailer Supply, I see they have a bead for '58 - '60 and a different one for '61 on. So they say its best to check yours first.

While I have your attention, I going to replace the weather gasket on the window frame at the same time. It looks like the best way is to remove the window. To do that, do you simply remove the 4 screws on the opening operators and lift the window up until it drops out of the hinge?

Thanks for the info everyone!
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Old 10-02-2006, 01:46 PM   #9
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there's usually (on mine anyway) a very small "set screw" at the middle/top of the hinge, keeps the window from sliding side to side. When I replaced my gaskets I removed the screw and slid the window out sideways . . . I didn't even try to raise the window high enough so that it would "drop out" of the hinge. Hope it works that way, otherwise you'll have to remove the screw.
Good Luck, MarkR
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Old 10-02-2006, 01:51 PM   #10
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Mark,

Can it slide out with the rain gutter in place?
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:28 PM   #11
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Hi Tim,

I had a couple of my windows out a few days ago. (My windows just missed the dip rail as I as sliding them around. I was replacing the screws that hold the window crank in. I am slowly replacing all the old rusting screws which stainless steel. The ones I used on the window cranks are allen heads and they sure look good, a more finished look then a phillips head.

P.S. If ayone has a lead on a 1959 window crank I have a broken one that would be nice to fixed before the snow flies.
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rschulz
. . . I'm hoping to replace them once spring comes.
Right. I bought the glazing bead and the bedding tape two years ago, and still have it coiled up in the garage.

The corners on my '59 have shrunk at least an inch in each corner. And the original bead is as stiff as a popsickle stick. The new stuff is very flexible, feels like silicone rubber.

I get around to it someday. None of my windows leak around the glass, so it's probably one of those things that can wait till I hit the road.

Installed my air conditioner today!
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Installed my air conditioner today!
Don,

Tell me about your air install? What unit did you go with? If a roof mount, did you have to re-enforce ther roof, or did you already have an original A/C and just replaced it?
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Old 10-02-2006, 05:44 PM   #14
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Tim,

I have a Penguin 13,500, with the CCC and heat strip. There was no A/C previously.

I framed the opening while I had all the interior skins out last year, and put in the drain tube and 120Vac/12Vdc/thermostat wiring. I placed the opening about 6" behind the front 14x14 vent opening.

The framing I used was 1 1/2" aluminum channel, and 1/8" aluminum shim to match the curvature of the roof.

I needed to modify the gasket on the bottom of the AC to clear the condensate drainage channels.

If you plan to go the Penguin with drain tube route, let me know, there are some other mods you shoudl know about that aren't worth talking about here.

Here are some pictures of the opening and finished install.
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