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Old 10-02-2006, 05:54 PM   #15
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As usual, very nice work Don!

I'll PM you with additiional questions.
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:30 PM   #16
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Removing 66', 67', And 68' Windows

Tim, If you look on the VintageTrailerSupply Website under windows, then under replacement windows for these three years, Steve H. has kindly made available the instructions on how to remove the old glass and reinstall new glass for all three type windows hinge configurations. You can just print them out! Yours will most likely be the type #3 window clamps and hinges which are the most owner friendly type of the three. Those are the same ones on my trailer and on Ingrids' tailer (Pinkflamingoes). There are two or three threads under the Windows, Skylights, and Vents section here on the forums that she and I have been sharing our experiences on replacing these windows. I hope this is the information you need and good luck! Ed
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Mark,

Can it slide out with the rain gutter in place?
Tim, there is a screw at the ends of the rain gutter. Remove one and the end of the gutter will bend up slightly and allow the window to slide out. They don't lift up and come off the track.
The glass is held in with the glazing tape which seals against water, the grey bead is more for looks.
I found the tape at a window repair shop. I had 3 broken windows to figure this out.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:42 PM   #18
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I appreciate all the info here, thanks everyone. Interesting, never realized it could be a shrinkage problem. Now I have one more thing on my list to order from VTS. Oh man, will my list never end?
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:03 PM   #19
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Interesting Doug,

I wondered why the ends had screws instead of rivets!

Good info everyone, thanks!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Shacksman
Tim, there is a screw at the ends of the rain gutter. Remove one and the end of the gutter will bend up slightly and allow the window to slide out. They don't lift up and come off the track.
The glass is held in with the glazing tape which seals against water, the grey bead is more for looks.
I found the tape at a window repair shop. I had 3 broken windows to figure this out.
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Old 10-02-2006, 11:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Interesting Doug,

I wondered why the ends had screws instead of rivets!

Good info everyone, thanks!
Tim I replaced the rusty screws with olympic rivets, shaved them and they looked great. Then when I went to remove the windows I had to drill out the rivets . You can save that step!
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:15 AM   #21
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Mine also needs the same treatment on my 60 trdwnd ,shrunk ,some silcone
was added ,but im sure it helped keep the water out .I also need to replace the weatherseal on the forward vent ,luckily the white dome is in great
conditon .My door seals have been done and no leaks ,I bought the seal in
bulk from CLEAN SEAL online company ,so Ive done the trunk with it also .
It is not the double edge type ,just a smooth square base for the glue and
a round seal contact area ,conforms very well to the rivits also .Ill get to
the windows at some point I hope!

Scott
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Old 10-03-2006, 06:12 AM   #22
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It seems many of us were engaged in similar activities this past month! We discovered a leak in the front window of our Bambi II and found the seal in the bottom of the window was compromised. This is what we did to remove the window:

1) Remove two screws from each of the two interior window crank hardware.
2) Extended window to the open position parallel to the ground.
3) Pulled the crank hardware from the inside so that the end of the sliding mechanism in the window lined up with the opening already cut in the channel about an inch down from the top of the window.
4) The window hardware was then removed. This freed up the window and now we only had to slide the window out of the hinged top section.
5) We had one screw in the top of the center of the window under the rain gutter which was holding the window in place (so it wouldn't slide side-to-side).
6) We gently pried up the gutter just enough to fit needle nose pliers in to turn the screw and remove it.
7) Window now slid out.
8) Gently pried the four gaskets loose. This part was easy because they were already loose.
9) We used a plastic tool from Home Depot to scrape out the rubbery glazing bead used to hold the plastic mitered covers in place on top of the window. Our front window is plexiglass so we had to be real careful we didn't scratch it.
10) After removing the plastic mitered covers we found the leak at the bottom of the window. Also, we discovered there were small gaps in the glazing bedding material all around the window.
11) With one person holding the glass from the outside and a second person gently pushing from the inside, we were able to free to the glass from the remaining bedding material.
12) We then removed the bedding material from the aluminum frame and the beading material from the plastic covers.
13) Now have to find bedding and beading material (Vintage Trailer is out of stock). Does anyone know of another source?
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:00 AM   #23
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yukionna,

Nice work. Thanks for the detailed description.

I don't know where to find the beading material you need. Perhaps someone will chime in soon.

Thanks again for the instructions!
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Old 10-03-2006, 06:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukionna
12) We then removed the bedding material from the aluminum frame and the beading material from the plastic covers.
13) Now have to find bedding and beading material (Vintage Trailer is out of stock). Does anyone know of another source?
I found the Glazing tape at a local window repair place. They have it in 2 thicknesses 1/16 and 1/8. I used 1/8 and if you strech it, you can make it whatever thickness you need. 25' for $5.
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:51 AM   #25
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Help on the window frame?

Hi - thought this thread might be a good one to jump in as it referes to the early 60's windows - glazing and sealing.

How about the actual frame they used. 1299 01030 {38 3/16" x 18 3/16"} Bedroom window on a 61 Overlander. It looks like the only way to find one is a salvage??

But what if we never find a salvage. Right now the PO had secured a piece of plexi into the opening with screw and OMG silicon (it is everywhere).

Has anyone either found a close match to re-build the window frame - or a total replacement frame with a piano hinge replacement instead of the drip/lip hinge system?

We have three parts of the window - but are missing the top part that slides into the drip/lip mounted to the body. Have asked the PO's to keep an eye out for it - and have put out some want ads - but thought I would try our luck in a thread too.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:53 AM   #26
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Pictures

Here is a picture of the window we need to replace and a detailed pic of the frame piece for the shape.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:28 PM   #27
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window parts

Peter or Sharon, You may want to try Cherokee Rv Salvage in Colorado. They told me last spring that they have a warehouse full of many different windows for vintage Airstreams. Since you have the frame assembly part number the may be able to get you an entire window assembly for your '61 trailer. I'll see if I can find the phone number and edit this post to include it for you. Ed

On Edit.....The phone number for Cherokee is Toll Free 1-877-291-3433. Hope this helps you.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52
Peter or Sharon, You may want to try Cherokee Rv Salvage in Colorado. They told me last spring that they have a warehouse full of many different windows for vintage Airstreams. Since you have the frame assembly part number the may be able to get you an entire window assembly for your '61 trailer. I'll see if I can find the phone number and edit this post to include it for you. Ed

On Edit.....The phone number for Cherokee is Toll Free 1-877-291-3433. Hope this helps you.

Thanks biged52 for the lead - will try them out..
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