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Old 02-08-2010, 04:38 AM   #15
Restorations done right
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Rich, be glad it is just rain. You could have almost three feet of snow and another foot on the way in two days.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:52 AM   #16
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I just found this thread and I'm mentioned! ha! I replaced all the openers in my windows last year. I have to say... i HATE the windows in my '64. Since you can't lock them, even with the new operators, the street side windows have a tendency to crack open at the bottom during a tow.

The way those operators work is they raise 2 bars to hold up the glass from one crank. The arm on the opposite side from the crank is angled so it hits the trailer first, so it's nice and snug, BUT you can't always get the side with the operator as snug, even when you really torque it down (no pun intended). On the streetside, those are at the front of the window, not the back, so they catch the wind. Of course, on my trade wind, that side has the majority of the windows!!! On the worst 2, I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the frame, and sill and put in a little pull pin I got from McMaster. Works great. Pop it out when I get to camp.

I would replace them all, while you're in there. They're all the same age. I also took the time to sand and polish (as best i could) the sills while the windows were out. They're a pain to remove, and I didn't want to get back in there. Replace all those screws with stainless while you're in there. No one likes rust on their Airstream! If you break the glass, you'll need to unscrew the frame to remove the glass. I broke my front glass when I was changing out the crank.

Having said all that, they do look really slick from the outside. Always good to see another '64 with those windows! I know they weren't used for the whole run. A friend of mine has a '64 with the same windows as my '62. It must have been built at the beginning of '64

JP
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:54 AM   #17
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Hi Tim

If you keep making forward progress I will never catch up to you! I look forward to seeing your window rebuild in person. I have so many questions, will it ever end!
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:07 AM   #18
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Tim
glad to see that worked out for you. I need to get some nylon guides also, a couple of mine kind of bounce their way open!
Kevin
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:23 AM   #19
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And by the way, the factory Clutch Head screws were a b%^&* to get to, and thus get out. I finally ordered a flexible 1/2" extension, and was barely able, and I mean just barely, to get on the head that was most difficult to reach, and then back it out. I replaced with the appropriate Phillips head.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:13 AM   #20
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When I did my windows, I removed the outer window frame before taking anything of the operators off. Open your window until the end of the arm is at the point in the frame where there's a screw and a small access piece. Remove that, slide the arm ends out and lift the window frame up. Then remove the philips head screw that's in the middle of the window's top hinge, and slide it out. It will be REALLY close to the skin of your trailer, so take extra caution NOT to scratch the side. Once you do that, everything is a piece of cake to get at. (kinda like taking the hood off the car before you do major engine work... do it once, then it becomes standard!)

Definitely replace the plastic bushings in the arms, and clean out the window slides if you can. I used a scotchbrite pad and some WD40. They glide open now!

JP
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:26 AM   #21
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JP:
I tried to remove the window and outer frame, but I could not get it to slide off. I had removed the guides, and the set screw in the middle of the frame. The window was like it was locked in. So I struggled to replace everything with the window frame and glass still in place. I'll try again to remove it with the next window.
-Tim
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:04 AM   #22
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Tim
if you got to the point where the arm is disconnected from the window and the set screw is out (on top exterior center of the window frame) then manually open the window about 3/4 of the way and slide window and frame out, it wont slide at any other point (goes back in same way).
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:08 PM   #23
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Diagram of window

Kevin:

Please see the attached PDF. I am not a great drawer, but see if I have this right. When you say the window is 3/4 open in order to slide the outer frame out, do I have it right?

-Tim
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1964 Window Side View Diagram.pdf (47.0 KB, 57 views)
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:13 PM   #24
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Looks close to me. I had to spray some lube into the hinge to help it slide, then I moved the window up and down while pushing it to the side. At the right angle it will start to slide unless the retaining screw is still engaged or the track is bent. I removed the screw and shot lube into the hole.

Good luck Tim,
Rich the Viking
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:03 PM   #25
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Tim
Lower the frame in the pdf so it is at more of a rt angle to the coach. (lube may also help like Rich and JP said). Then try to slide glass and frame(probably from right to left) if it wont go change the angle just a little, should come out. When replacing will need to put frame at same angle as you took it out and make sure it is perfectly centered in the fixed coach frame before you lower it closed if it isnt it will bend the little channel.... not good. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:13 AM   #26
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JB, Rich & Kevin:
All the advise helped, both the front and back windows are now out. I had to grind off the front window set screw, as there was no getting it out. I will now focus on getting some form of new plastic window panes (Lexon?). I also have the gaskets etc. from Vintage Trailer to install, along with new window operators. I look forward to having all the windows operate correctly!
-Tim
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:31 AM   #27
Restorations done right
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I would use real glass. However that is me.I have a personal aversion to plastic in general. In a very short time it no longer flat and begins to concave inward.
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:00 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
I would use real glass. However that is me.I have a personal aversion to plastic in general. In a very short time it no longer flat and begins to concave inward.
Frank:

I am open to glass, but how concerned do I need to be with breakage? I have no window guards to protect the front (and rear) panes while towing. I agree with you on glass being the better material, but I don't want to be replacing a broken pane when I am 500 miles from home.

-Tim
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