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Old 08-11-2006, 01:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codybear
Hi John,

Thnnx for the Zip-Dee idea. Do you think replacing the pins in the 2 door hinges (they look a little bent), might be a start in 'straightiening out the door?
I really can't say without actually seeing the parts. A pro, such as lewster, migt be a better person to ask.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:49 PM   #16
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hey codybear,

post some pics so we can give you some more constructive feedback. was the door frame cracked and/or bent? replacing aluminum skins is a piece of cake, but the actual door frames are a little tougher.

when my door blew open the second time, it (FORTUNATELY) never left the trailer. the hinge edge was unbent, the handle edge, however snapped and twisted. i thought about how to get the curve back in it, and i've come up with the idea of buying a 2X6, tracing the curve on it from the back of the door, and clamping the front down until it's close, if not even a little MORE curved (to hold the top and bottom closer to the body). THEN get my friend to weld the cracks for me.

also, all the aluminum rivets sheared on the inner panel when the door bent. by bending the door back slightly by hand, and re-riveting them in place, the door was enormously more stable feeling. it's amazing how flimsy a door will feel with just the outter skin attached.

look forward to some pics!

jordan
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:54 PM   #17
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Those hasps were purchased at the WalMart in Gallup, NM while on the second day of our two week journey. All repairs needed to be made on the road. They have held up fine.

Brad
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:29 PM   #18
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warped out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
I really can't say without actually seeing the parts. A pro, such as lewster, migt be a better person to ask.
Ok, here's a couple of pix of the warped door, notice that the door doesn't have the same gap top to bottom ithe gap is wider at the top..it's about a 1/4-1/2 inch difference in gap
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:31 PM   #19
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bent pins

here's the view from the inside of the pins that appear to be bent
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:39 PM   #20
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your door looks just like mine did... same year, even! ha! i think your hinge pins are fine. the leading edge is probably bent and,or cracked. take a close look at where the door catch is on the frame, and see if it has a crack going towards the trailer. then get close to teh edge, and look down the edge (like you're "sighting" a board to make sure it's straight), and see if the curve is consistent. mine hit the trailer so hard it actually curves back out above and below the door handle, and thus, my door has the same gaps yours has.

lastly, check the interior panel and see if the rivets have sheared off. if they have, replacing these rivets in their original hols will restore some of the curve, and make the door considerably stronger.

jp
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:46 PM   #21
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Looks to me like the wrap around curve part of the hinge may have lost some of its curvature. Seems like there's alot of play in there. Also, I've been told that popping the hinge pin is a piece of cake. The knob on the bottom is supposedly a dome headed screw and once you remove it, the pin can be lifted out. I have not checked mine to see if this is true or not. I have the same lost door curvature and know I'll need to reshape my door. I can see a little bit of sky while sitting at the dinette.

Brad
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:57 PM   #22
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Well it's good to hear all of your suggestions..Steve says one thing that's good so far is that it isn't leaking around the door..he did put insulating vinyl/rubber trim on the inside, so maybe that saves us!..thnx
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Old 08-11-2006, 08:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
I've been told that popping the hinge pin is a piece of cake...
indeed they are... too easily, in fact. once you take your door off the first time, you'll realize how unsecure the trailer really is! ha! some "friends" of mine broke into my trailer to leave a dog in it once... but that's another story....


jp
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Old 08-11-2006, 09:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
We have an '05 Safari 25' FB. Ours has a sucicide door and since it is at the rear, it also hits the awning suuport. We understand there were only a few FB's hinged this way before the factory decided that this was not such a great idea.
Mine is the '06, and it has a hinge forward door. I heard only 7 were made with the suicide door. The factory did replace one within the 2 year warranty period at little or no charge.

Yours may be out of warranty, but you might want to call the factory and see what they'd do for you.

Paula Ford
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Old 08-11-2006, 10:13 PM   #25
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Hello everyone, Our 60 trdwnd had previousely had the door slamming back routine ,never happened to us ... because of the hardware store padlock
latch the po had on it .Since then The door has been refiited and reshaped
off the trailer with some 2x4 supports I setup to begin fixing the door .That got done .I removed the door handle ,and inside stircker bolt and had it welded up as 1/2 " needed to be added to it for better extension into the stiker plate .I also added extruded aluminum curved plates behind the skin
and they are rivited in place and the hinges rivited back in there original
locations .The door is held much stonger and is not wiggely because of the
added strength of the plates .The plates measure about 5x7 " square.
That upgrade made the whole door fit better and the door weight does not
pull the door down abit when open ,nor does it flex the skin .I recommend
to all that some upgrade such as mine be done if possible as it greatly
resolves these issues .I always lock the door when traveling and there is no
way possible it can fly open .The looseness of the original door hinges rivited
to the skin ,along with the door sagging and the striker bolt barely
penetrating the striker pocket all cause the door to open in transit .In the 3
years I have we have owned the trdwnd ,never has the door come open.

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:29 AM   #26
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hey scott, can you post some pics? i'd love to see it, as strengthening my dor is on this month's list.

thanks!
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:10 AM   #27
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I wiil post some pics of the aluminum extrusions I used and get them on .I don't have pics of the work ,as that was a few years ago ,but I will help
with any info .Ill check to see if I have more aluminum .A 1/8 inch aluminum
plate will also be strong and can be shaped to the curve of the trailer
pretty easily and slipped between the skin and the inside of the wall .
You will be happy with that first major improvement ,and the door hinges will
not move around on the skin as in flexing when opening the door etc.
pics to follow.

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 08-15-2006, 08:54 AM   #28
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did you not have a steel backing plate in the wall behind the door hinges? my '59 did. see this pic from my post:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...7&d=1129733934

it's incredibly stiff. i can see how a door just rivetted to the skin would rip out. .032 isn't that strong when you think about a door hinge application.

i look forward to your pics!

jp
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