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Old 05-12-2015, 03:48 PM   #1
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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New Door Seal Break-in Time

BLUF: How long should it take for the new gasket to settle/wear in to be able to close the door comfortably from the interior.

Last summer I replaced the old worn out door seal with the recommended D (though a little more triangular shaped) door seal (Main Door Rubber Seal 365045 [365045] - $31.40 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!).
After replacing the seal I had to shove it very hard from the outside to get the door to latch. I couldn't get it to close while pulling the door closed from the inside. Pulled pretty hard, and slammed a bit, but didn't want to break the interior handle. A bit worried, I took it off and used some window weather strip from big box to get through the summer while working on the trailer. Now I'm ready to get the proper gasket on the door.
I've got nice even clearance and the door surface rests flush around it's perimeter.
I thought about it a little last night and think I may be able to shim the lock toward the interior a little so the latch is further back and can get into the catch on the outer frame.
How long should it take for the new gasket to settle/wear in to be able to close the door comfortably from the interior.

Thoughts
Thanks
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:35 PM   #2
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2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
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When I had my Bambi II I bought a "recommended" door seal from another online company. After install I had the same issue. I contacted the company, turns out they had sent me the incorrect seal. Returned the old and received the new. It worked fine.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:36 PM   #3
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1974 31' Sovereign
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AWCHIEF, do you remember what the new one was like, similar to the one shown, or different shape?
AWCHIEF, AW(Air Warfare) CHIEF (E-7)?
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:56 PM   #4
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1991 34' Excella
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My 63 has been tough since I replaced it 2-3 years ago. It's finally getting to the point I can swing the door and it closes. A good, firm swing but a swing nevertheless
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:44 PM   #5
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Replaced mine 2 years ago. Works great. But, yes, I have to push in from outside about 3/4". When I close from inside, I have learned just how hard to accelerate to get good close. When I pull from inside, I also grab the screen door handle...to spread the pressure. I also keep the aluminum frame light coated with silicone spray.. It works fine. Great seal!!!
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:47 PM   #6
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Joe, they had different shapes and size. The first one was too fat. The second one was just right.
Too answer your other question, all of the above, Chief Petty Officer, Antisubmarine Equipment Operator ( acoustic), Combat Aircrew, Naval Air crewman, Air Warfare.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:21 PM   #7
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1969 27' Overlander
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I need to replace seals both windows and doors on the one 1969 Overlander that I am renovating. I called Airstream and they told me to get the same as was originally on it - sort of a claw shape. Out-of-doors- mart 682520 Has anyone used this and how did it close? Hints are welcomed - I'm very new to this.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:40 PM   #8
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1974 31' Sovereign
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I looked, picture certainly looks like it would be too shallow for sealing around my 74 and 79 doors. Wish they posted some dimensions on the gasket. Looks like it'd be good for windows. I used the D seals on all my windows with success. I think I'm going to try the D seal around the door.
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:03 PM   #9
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I installed the medium "D" seal on my 68 Safari, just sat through a storm in Austin, my door leaked at the top of the frame. Looking for a new solution.


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Old 05-25-2015, 06:28 PM   #10
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I just purchased one from Vintage it has holes in it to let the air escape when closing , I also bought one earlier from Airstream it has no air holes I was told without the holes it would be hard to close from the inside . I still have not installed either one yet waiting for a day with no rain in site . They both are self adhesive and my old one is glued on so it will require some glue removal. I think I will go with the one from Vintage .
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