Need door hinge re-bushed

[goshawks00]

Our 66 Sarfari door hinge is shot!!! There is enough "slop" or play in the hinge & pin that the door skin is beginning to cut into the body skin. I have read here that several folks have taken their door hinge off and had it redrilled and bushed then a new hinge pin re-inserted. If possible can someone furnish a name of a company that could do this for us?
Thanks and Happy Holidays,
The Ollettes

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Our 66 Sarfari door hinge is shot!!! There is enough "slop" or play in the hinge & pin that the door skin is beginning to cut into the body skin. I have read here that several folks have taken their door hinge off and had it redrilled and bushed then a new hinge pin re-inserted. If possible can someone furnish a name of a company that could do this for us?
Thanks and Happy Holidays,
The Ollettes

If you change out the hinge pin, you should find that the issue is "fixed".

Andy

[goshawks00]

Interesting thing here Andy... I spent some time looking at the door. Now the hinge is two parts right. One half is riveted to the trailer , the other half is riveted to the door . A pin holds the two together so both are actually riding on the pin. The trailer part of the hinge with the pin going through it is very tight. The door part of the hinge is very sloppy. With that in mind do you think that replacing the will really "fix' the issue? If so I will order the pin immediately. Of course if it doesn't then the pin can be returned correct? How about a part no.?
BTW the door part of the hinge would be very easy to take apart as it is riveted with several very easily reachable rivets, so taking it off to be rebushed doesn't look to be much of a job.

Either way hope you have a great Holiday...
ps the axle fit perfectly, thank you

The Ollettes

[BIGED52]

The pin on my hinge was the worn item that was causing all the slop in my door. It is relatively easy to remove the old pin and check it for wear. At the same time since the door will be off the trailer you can check both parts of the hinge to see if there is any wear that would require a sleeve. I don't know if the hinge plates have enough material for drilling out large enough holes to accomodate a bushing. However I would guess if you needed to drill the holes larger to remove any wear a bigger diameter pin could be made to use in the hinge. Ed

[goshawks00]

Yes I see this as a solution however a larger pin would be a lot harder to do. Taking the door off and removing that half of the hinge for work to be done is one thing. Taking the other half (the body side ) of the hinge off appears to be really time/labor intense. With the door half of the hinge off the door ( something like 5-6 rivets) it should be or at least in my thinking, should relitively easy to drill oversized holes and add bushings to resize the hole to original dimension ( I believe .250). Again it is the door part of the hinge that is "wallowed" out and allowing for the sag.

I think !!

Thanks for response and more food for thought.
Barry

[perryg114]

Consider a hollow pin with a zerk (grease fitting in the end of it). Now you can grease the hinges internally and prevent future problems. Maybe you could fill a grease gun with the sliver antisieze so it all matches (sorta kidding here).

Perry

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Interesting thing here Andy... I spent some time looking at the door. Now the hinge is two parts right. One half is riveted to the trailer , the other half is riveted to the door . A pin holds the two together so both are actually riding on the pin. The trailer part of the hinge with the pin going through it is very tight. The door part of the hinge is very sloppy. With that in mind do you think that replacing the will really "fix' the issue? If so I will order the pin immediately. Of course if it doesn't then the pin can be returned correct? How about a part no.?
BTW the door part of the hinge would be very easy to take apart as it is riveted with several very easily reachable rivets, so taking it off to be rebushed doesn't look to be much of a job.

Either way hope you have a great Holiday...
ps the axle fit perfectly, thank you

The Ollettes

It's rather difficult to have an exact diagnosis of your hinge, when I cannot see it in operation.

People that have ordered the pin, have never asked to return it, since they say that fixed the "issue".

Take the old pin out and see if it's worn.

Andy

[goshawks00]

Andy of course I jest In case you haven't read my other post pertaining to the pin ...here goes. The pin won't come out... I've beat it and beat it no go!!! What i did do was grind little pieces off between each hinge flange to the point that I got all the pieces of pin out except and it a big except... the center 3" portion. That is the area where the spiral pin is also at. I did get the spiral pin out, but I haven't gotten the 3"piece of hinge pin out... I am at a loss on how to do that and am waiting/hoping some of our best brainiacs on this site,will have a solution.
Now then that said I miked all the short pieces of pin I was able to get out and every single one of them measured .250 except one that measured .249. SO... the pin was as I suspected OK and it is in fact the door portion of the hinge that is wallowed out. I checked it with a .250 rod I have here and am able to see up close that it's oblong and enlarged.
Can you please tell me are these hinges made out of stainless? I suspect so as a magnet doesn't stick, same with the pin I took out it is non magnetic also.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Andy of course I jest In case you haven't read my other post pertaining to the pin ...here goes. The pin won't come out... I've beat it and beat it no go!!! What i did do was grind little pieces off between each hinge flange to the point that I got all the pieces of pin out except and it a big except... the center 3" portion. That is the area where the spiral pin is also at. I did get the spiral pin out, but I haven't gotten the 3"piece of hinge pin out... I am at a loss on how to do that and am waiting/hoping some of our best brainiacs on this site,will have a solution.
Now then that said I miked all the short pieces of pin I was able to get out and every single one of them measured .250 except one that measured .249. SO... the pin was as I suspected OK and it is in fact the door portion of the hinge that is wallowed out. I checked it with a .250 rod I have here and am able to see up close that it's oblong and enlarged.
Can you please tell me are these hinges made out of stainless? I suspect so as a magnet doesn't stick, same with the pin I took out it is non magnetic also.

The hinge is cast metal. Non-magnetic.

The pin was originally stainless steel. Again, non-magnetic.

About the best you can do now, since you have cut that pin, is to finish cutting it, so that you can remove the door from the trailer.

Once that's removed then you will have to drill out the part of the hinge pin that is still in place.

You can do that with a long 1/4 drill bit.

After that, then perhaps you can replace the pin.

Please keep in mind that your hinge is a thing of the past. What ever has to be done, will have to be done with your hinge.

Or, remove the hinge and have a machine shop fix it for you.

Andy



It appears from your description that the pin has seized in the area of the split pin.

All of the old pin must be removed so that you can install a replacement.

Andy

[goshawks00]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The hinge is cast metal. Non-magnetic.


Once that's removed then you will have to drill out the part of the hinge pin that is still in place.

You can do that with a long 1/4 drill bit.

It appears from your description that the pin has seized in the area of the split pin.

All of the old pin must be removed so that you can install a replacement.

Andy

Thanks Andy for your reply...
I do have the door off , and am trying to track down a l-o-n-g 1/4" drill. Even if found I'm not sure how much success I will have with drilling out 3" of stainless pin I have thought about whether the bind is in the split pin area I may try enlarging that hole a little bit and see if it gives some relief. Other than that I'm stumped at how to remove the pin. Do you think heating up the cast hinge would possibly loosen up the pin to where I can drive it out?
Andy you mentioned the hinge was cast... Is that cast aluminum?

Thanks again,
Barry

[Jim Foster]

You might try a little heat. Be very careful. The hinge is made of a softer material than the pin, and will most likely expand a little faster. Heat a little, and use a pin punch and see of the pin will drive out.

[goshawks00]

After much heating penetrating oil and beating the pin is out. So now the next thing is to get the door side hinge drilled out and have bushings installed to bring it back to .250" . What material would be the best bushing? Bronze? Being that the pin is to be stainless maybe stainless? Suggestions?
Thanks
Happy Holidays,
The Ollettes

[barts]

I'd be inclined to make/buy a Delrin (acetal) or MDS-filled nylon bushing to match the stainless. These will be quiet, will not need lube, and will not seize.

I'm using Delrin bushings in the valve gear on my steam engine - works very well indeed.

- Bart

[goshawks00]

I may be wrong, but I believe the OD of a 1/4" ID bushing is to big for the surface area of the hinge... I tried to get some specs. on the Delrin bushings but all I could find were 1/2" or 5/8" od in order to use a 1/4" ID.
Suggestions?
Barry

[Smartstream]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

I may be wrong, but I believe the OD of a 1/4" ID bushing is to big for the surface area of the hinge... I tried to get some specs. on the Delrin bushings but all I could find were 1/2" or 5/8" od in order to use a 1/4" ID.
Suggestions?
Barry

Speaking as a machinist I would bore the hinge just enough to clean up the worn area and make the hole round again. While doing this it is important to make sure the center-line of the hole is in the same location as it was originally so that the door position remains true. Now you can fabricate a thin wall bronze bushing to fit. Delrin bushings are nice but may not be useful if the wall thickness is too thin. Any competent machine shop should be able to fix you up. I would have him make you a couple of extra bushings while he is at it. If you notice any wear in the future it will be easy to push in one of your spares.

Cheers, Dan

[barts]

Mcmaster.com has Delrin flanged sleeve bushings that are 1/4" id, 3/8" od. If there's not enough room for these, you'll indeed need to have some thin wall bronze bushings turned...

- Bart

[goshawks00]

Thanks guys... I see McM. has 1/4" ID -5/16" OD bronze bushings so will probably go that route. First task is finding a machine shop that can do the work then see what they recommend... Stay tuned!!
Merry Christmas all,
Barry