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Old 09-16-2006, 12:33 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1965 26' Overlander
Fort Bragg , California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 32
Missing keys on access panels

PO couldn't find keys for the access panels. I was just going to drill them out, but realized they are probably a common cabinet key. Any ideas?


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Old 09-16-2006, 12:56 PM   #2
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1988 25' Excella
Sunnyvale , California
Join Date: Jul 2003
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Your profile says "still looking" so I can't tell how old trailer is for lock types...

Most are Corbin or Bauer cabinet locks, held in place with retaining nut on rear and tab that rotates up to lock... You might be able to turn entire lock unit 90 degrees to open with screwdriver, and then remove nut and replace lock with equivalent from hardware store or airstream or other RV suppler... If lock had digits stamped on it you could try locksmith, but ours don't..


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Old 09-16-2006, 01:05 PM   #3
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1964 28' Ambassador
Oklahoma City , Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 143
Had the same problem, and called a locksmith who had my keys back in one day. You'd be surprised at how interested they are in unlocking a vintage Airstream.
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Old 09-16-2006, 02:50 PM   #4
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1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
Hello kaulike ,don't drill the locks ,bad idea .A lock smith can bring a big ring of master keys and work your locks to open them and then cut keys .My 60
trdwnd uses different locks and keys on each door inside or out .Granger,
which is an industrial outfit has a catalog with tons of locks and handles
and such ,may have similar lock mechanisms if it comes to that .check online
for Granger industial products .

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 09-16-2006, 03:21 PM   #5
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1960 24' Tradewind
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area , Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,115
Yes, don't drill out your locks. A site call from a locksmith costs about $60 in my area and would be worth it. Or your can save the housecall charge if there is a way to remove the cylinders by going through the interior. Most any locksmith can cut the correct key. My 1960 Tradewind is similar to Scott's. The rear trunk uses either a Chicago key (blank AP3) or a Trimark key (blank TM3). The refrigerator compartment uses a Yale key blank and is a simple cam lock. I think you where hauling home a 1969 Overlander. It may have a different lock configuration.
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:10 PM   #6
2 Rivet Member
1965 26' Overlander
Fort Bragg , California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 32
As always, thanks to all for replies. My wife and I spent all day cleaning out and gutting our new-to-us '69 overlander, trying to eradicate a horrid smell that we now think is a combination of the ancient holding tank and the smoker's residue sticking to everything. We have about 2/3 of the cabinetry out of the trailer, not bad for the first day!

One thing we did manage to find (behind the fridge) was the missing key! It works for the back panel but not for the front one, as sugarfoot mentions with his. However, I can get to the front one from the other side now, so all is well, at least with that problem.

The next issue to do with locks is the door. It is structurally compromised---the bottom half, below the hinge, swings fairly loosely and looks like it is only attached to the top by the skins. The break is at the striker plate, perhaps it was broken into at some point. Obviously doesn't seal against the weatherstripping. I plan to drill out the rivets for the interior skin and see what I can do to stiffen it in the correct position---perhaps bolting (or welding) in some tubular or angular aluminum or steel. Security won't be a problem where we plan to keep it, but I would like it to be weatherproof.

Thanks again, and I'll update my profile now

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