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Old 10-04-2014, 05:32 PM   #15
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Andy - I tried what you suggested - pushing and pulling above and below the lock - and what seems to happen is a buckling in the door just under the top hinge.

And as everyone pointed out after a week of having the wood putting the pressure on it had little to no effect on pushing it back to shape.


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I still feel that your door is cracked at the door lock area.

Andy
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:48 PM   #16
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I still feel that your door is cracked at the door lock area.

Andy
I'm with you Andy. With a cast frame, when there is a break, it is most likely to clear through the frame, but with an extrusion, the cracks could be on the sides of the extrusion covered by the inner and outer skins.

A few minutes with a screwdriver and a drill, and the inner skin comes off revealing any frame damage for all the world to see. This door has no window, making the job very easy.
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:24 PM   #17
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I'm with you Andy. With a cast frame, when there is a break, it is most likely to clear through the frame, but with an extrusion, the cracks could be on the sides of the extrusion covered by the inner and outer skins.

A few minutes with a screwdriver and a drill, and the inner skin comes off revealing any frame damage for all the world to see. This door has no window, making the job very easy.
Jim.

The weakest part of the doors that used an extrusion for the door frame, is at the door lock area.

I stand by my guess.

Andy
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:15 PM   #18
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I think removing the inner skins is the thing to do cracks or not. Leaving it on the trailer may not be a bad thing because you have the opening to provide a reference to get the correct contour.

Perry
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:03 AM   #19
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I think removing the inner skins is the thing to do cracks or not. Leaving it on the trailer may not be a bad thing because you have the opening to provide a reference to get the correct contour.

Perry
Perry.

For simplicity, we always removed the interior metal, and closed the door.

Then we made the door fit properly.

Next, we tack welded the crack.

Then we finished the welding after we opened the door.

Of course, double checking to make sure nothing went wrong.

Part of fixing the cracks in a cast frame was to taper the cracks, which allowed a full weld.

You can do somewhat the same thing, but to a lesser extent to the extrusion
frames.

When reinstalling the old metal, DO NOT use the same holes, since they have wallowed out. Install new rivets in new holes, which locks the door into a proper angle, Then, and only then, after double checking the fit, install rivets into the old holes, which now serve nothing more than a decent appearance.

Restoring the original interior door strength is most important, and using just the old holes, will not in any sense allow that to happen.

Andy
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