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Old 03-06-2008, 10:59 AM   #1
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Is this door striker available?

1970 27' Overlander. Is this striker plate still available?
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Old 03-06-2008, 11:11 AM   #2
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Would this work?

Shari
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:54 PM   #3
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Thanks Shari,

It might work. It doesn't exactly look like what is there but who knows if that is original. Hopefully someone will know. Meanwhile I will keep that one in mind. It is the best that I have found.

Vernon
Crosby, TX
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord
1970 27' Overlander. Is this striker plate still available?
Attachment 55625
We have that exact part.

Andy
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by InsideOut
Would this work?

Shari
That's the one that I installed on our '66 TW. It works.
Neil
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreshAir
That's the one that I installed on our '66 TW. It works.
Neil
1964 to 1969 striker pockets were made with "nylon".

From 1970 on up, the striker pockets are metal.

1970 to 1972 used a striker pocket as shown in vhords photo.

1973 on up for a number of years used a cast stainless steel striker pocket, that also was used with a brass shim.

The 1970 to 1972 striker pockets, would wear very quick, as shown by vhords photo, if the running gear was not properly balanced. Similar wear would also be found on the striker bolt.

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Old 03-11-2008, 12:36 AM   #7
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Andy, just wanted to chime in here to ask if there are any rules for putting a deadbolt on an older AS. I would very much like something sturdier than the lock on my 76 Sovereign. I'd feel safer inside and safer towing if I knew the door would stay shut. My RV man just wouldn't attempt it and I'm afraid my husband will.
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:25 AM   #8
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Juel, John HD has a buddy that put a deadbolt in his AS and put together a step by step on how to do it in a thread here someplace. I've saved the link on my other computer, I'll try to remember to send it to you tonight.

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Old 03-11-2008, 06:42 AM   #9
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Locking Hasp

Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
Andy, just wanted to chime in here to ask if there are any rules for putting a deadbolt on an older AS. I would very much like something sturdier than the lock on my 76 Sovereign. I'd feel safer inside and safer towing if I knew the door would stay shut. My RV man just wouldn't attempt it and I'm afraid my husband will.
RE: Deadbolts; Andy convinced me early on there is a risk of weakening the door frame in cutting a hole into it to install a deadbolt. As an alternative I installed a locking hasp. It is mounted externally to the skin of the door and coach and does not look half bad. Some might also say doesn't look half good, but it does lock with a key and doesn't have to have a padlock. You do have to drill a few screw holes in the skin; the emotional agony of which was the hardest part of the job. Stanley makes one for about $10. Make sure you position it low enough that when the door is fully open it doesn't contact the coach skin
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:48 AM   #10
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dead bolt instructions

Jim,
How about posting the link here?
I too am interested in this. More for the added security while towing. I've heard the horror stories of the door opening while going down the road . Doesn't sound like a pretty sight.
Thanks ,
Loren
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
We have that exact part.

Andy
Thanks again Andy,

I did not see it on you web site. I will add that to my wish list to order from you. I am still waiting for a reply to an email that I sent 3/7/2008 (to inlandrv@aol.com) requesting prices on my front window parts. I want to order as much as possible on one order to possibly cut down on freight costs.

Vernon
Crosby, TX
1970 27' Overlander
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord
Thanks again Andy,

I did not see it on you web site. I will add that to my wish list to order from you. I am still waiting for a reply to an email that I sent 3/7/2008 (to inlandrv@aol.com) requesting prices on my front window parts. I want to order as much as possible on one order to possibly cut down on freight costs.

Vernon
Crosby, TX
1970 27' Overlander
Our web site parts list is a "sale list" only.

We carry over 3300 different Airstream parts in stock.

We are short handed with 2 people out for the next ball park, 3 weeks. I will get back to you asap.

CORRECTION. vhords photo of a striker pocket, shows the part that was used from 1970 to 1971, not 1972 as I previously quoted.

Mounting a dead bolt into the door, is an absolute "NO NO".

Mounting a dead bolt into the shell, with only a minimal hole in the door frame (not door jamb), still weakens the door. A cast door frame will more than likely break the first or second time the door is slammed.

The extruded aluminum door frames are weakened, even with a minimal additional hole cut into it, and will eventually warp out of shape, causing a water leak, which in turn, will cause a rotten floor at the entrance door area.

The safest way is to use the setup as designed by Airstream, BUT, check to make sure that the entrance door is positioned correctly so that about 1/2 inch or more of the striker bolt is engaged into the striker plate. The location of the hinge or hinges, determines the location of the door, within the door jamb.

Also make sure that the striker pocket is not broken or worn, such as "vhords" photo shows.

Additionally, stopping vibrations due to lack of proper running gear balance, assures striker bolt and striker pocket longevity.

And finally, stopping or reducing shell shape changes, due to worn out or "no" shocks, further assists in stopping the entrance door from flying open.

Thanks.

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Old 03-11-2008, 08:42 AM   #13
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Andy,

That's not a problem. I have lots of time before I will need most of my stuff.

I own a retail hardware store and I know about being short handed at times.
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:10 AM   #14
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Vhord, the striker pocket on my '71 carravanner is worn like yours, maybe not quite as much. I was going to have it "built up" with heliarc weld, and then file it to shape. However, now that I know that Andy's got them, I'll just get one from him. Thanx for your posting, or I would never have known that Andy had that part. Good luck with your AS.
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:54 AM   #15
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Andy never ceases to amaze me with his products and knowledge.
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:27 AM   #16
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Thanks Andy. I was beginning to think a dearbolt was not a great idea. I do worry about the door coming open; however, I camp alone a lot and really wanted something that would make me feel more secure. I'll have to keep looking or buy a much bigger dog.
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
Thanks Andy. I was beginning to think a dearbolt was not a great idea. I do worry about the door coming open; however, I camp alone a lot and really wanted something that would make me feel more secure. I'll have to keep looking or buy a much bigger dog.
As long as the striker bolt engages the striker pocket by at least 1/2 inch, it becomes impossible for the door to fly open.

The doors can be moved by the relocating the hinge or hinges.

Worn striker pockets can be replaced.

In all my years, I have never seen a door that opened in transit, unless the door fit wasn't correct, or that the lock striker bolt and/or the striker pocket were badly worn.

Installing a dead bolt is not the cure for a door that is not fitting correctly, or for worn out parts.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:37 PM   #18
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Andy, the door seems to fit well and all the things you questioned are good. I just would like to lock myself IN at night with something more secure than the original lock. I thought the deadbolt could serve two purposes, but having the door come open while traveling was kind of secondary. No worn out part evident, but that lock just doesn't look like it's that great. I have a deadbolt in my Argosy, but only on the inside wall. It's little and just locks from the inside and doesn't penetrate the trailer's outside skin. Makes me feel more secure when I'm out in the boonies alone, except for the two killer Poms.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:28 PM   #19
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Juel, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ion-14754.html is the thread I was thinking of this morning. Sorry it took so long to get it to you. I had it saved on my home computer. Skip down to the description starting around post number 14. This is the way I'm gonna do it on mine. Hope it helps a bit.

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Old 03-11-2008, 06:37 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info. It still looks like a chance for a disaster. Let me know how you do. I'm thinking just a little thumb-bolt slide may work for me on the inside. Sheet metal is not Bob's strong suite. He's a genius at some things, but that scares me.
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