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Old 03-11-2008, 11:54 AM   #15
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Andy never ceases to amaze me with his products and knowledge.
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:27 PM   #16
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Thanks Andy. I was beginning to think a dearbolt was not a great idea. I do worry about the door coming open; however, I camp alone a lot and really wanted something that would make me feel more secure. I'll have to keep looking or buy a much bigger dog.
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:57 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by juel
Thanks Andy. I was beginning to think a dearbolt was not a great idea. I do worry about the door coming open; however, I camp alone a lot and really wanted something that would make me feel more secure. I'll have to keep looking or buy a much bigger dog.
As long as the striker bolt engages the striker pocket by at least 1/2 inch, it becomes impossible for the door to fly open.

The doors can be moved by the relocating the hinge or hinges.

Worn striker pockets can be replaced.

In all my years, I have never seen a door that opened in transit, unless the door fit wasn't correct, or that the lock striker bolt and/or the striker pocket were badly worn.

Installing a dead bolt is not the cure for a door that is not fitting correctly, or for worn out parts.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:37 PM   #18
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Andy, the door seems to fit well and all the things you questioned are good. I just would like to lock myself IN at night with something more secure than the original lock. I thought the deadbolt could serve two purposes, but having the door come open while traveling was kind of secondary. No worn out part evident, but that lock just doesn't look like it's that great. I have a deadbolt in my Argosy, but only on the inside wall. It's little and just locks from the inside and doesn't penetrate the trailer's outside skin. Makes me feel more secure when I'm out in the boonies alone, except for the two killer Poms.
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:28 PM   #19
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Juel, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ion-14754.html is the thread I was thinking of this morning. Sorry it took so long to get it to you. I had it saved on my home computer. Skip down to the description starting around post number 14. This is the way I'm gonna do it on mine. Hope it helps a bit.

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Old 03-11-2008, 07:37 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info. It still looks like a chance for a disaster. Let me know how you do. I'm thinking just a little thumb-bolt slide may work for me on the inside. Sheet metal is not Bob's strong suite. He's a genius at some things, but that scares me.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:17 PM   #21
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We have owned this Trade Wind for 2 years now. Hardly a week goes by that I discover something new about it. Our coach came with a dead bolt. It doesn't have a lock in it so it must have been placed there for additional security of the door flying open in transit. The dead bolt is a good tight fit. No rattle. However the door latch came with no striker and of course the door wasn't snug when closed. I bought the metal striker and it fits fantastic. The door closes with minimum effort and does not rattle. The dead bolt nylon striker is chipped away on the leading edge but doesn't affect the security of the door staying closed. I always believe 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. Andy, am I correct in understanding this thread that my dead bolt isn't original? Also from what you can tell from my photo that it is best to leave it alone since it works or am I looking to some problems down the road?
Thanks for being in this Forum.
Neil.
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreshAir
We have owned this Trade Wind for 2 years now. Hardly a week goes by that I discover something new about it. Our coach came with a dead bolt. It doesn't have a lock in it so it must have been placed there for additional security of the door flying open in transit. The dead bolt is a good tight fit. No rattle. However the door latch came with no striker and of course the door wasn't snug when closed. I bought the metal striker and it fits fantastic. The door closes with minimum effort and does not rattle. The dead bolt nylon striker is chipped away on the leading edge but doesn't affect the security of the door staying closed. I always believe 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. Andy, am I correct in understanding this thread that my dead bolt isn't original? Also from what you can tell from my photo that it is best to leave it alone since it works or am I looking to some problems down the road?
Thanks for being in this Forum.
Neil.
Your moreso describing a 1967 dead bolt that was installed on your door.

Please list the trailer serial number and/or a photo and I can better help you.

You should replace the "nylon striker pocket."

It's only available from us, since we own the original mold.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Your moreso describing a 1967 dead bolt that was installed on your door.

Please list the trailer serial number and/or a photo and I can better help you.

You should replace the "nylon striker pocket."

It's only available from us, since we own the original mold.

Andy
The serial # is SO246012. The photo shows the door knob and desd bolt. Pleas tell me your part number for the 'pocket' and I will order one post haste.
Thanks again.
Neil
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:06 AM   #24
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Hi Neil.........

I have the exact same dead bolt on my '66 Safari. The actual dead bolt is a round pin that goes into the door frame.

Where did you find the blue block thing that you use to keep the door closed (for extra insurance)?

Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreshAir
The serial # is SO246012. The photo shows the door knob and desd bolt. Pleas tell me your part number for the 'pocket' and I will order one post haste.
Thanks again.
Neil
You indeed have a 66 trailer.

Perhaps I am mistaken about what year Airstream first used that dead bolt.

When it works correctly, you can lock and unlock the deadbolt from the outside, but you can only "unlock" the deadbolt from the inside.

It was called a "travel lock".

That dead bolt has not been available for at least 25 years.

The entrance door locks, are available.

The nylon striker pocket is part # 91377.

Andy
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
You indeed have a 66 trailer.

Perhaps I am mistaken about what year Airstream first used that dead bolt.

When it works correctly, you can lock and unlock the deadbolt from the outside, but you can only "unlock" the deadbolt from the inside.

It was called a "travel lock".

That dead bolt has not been available for at least 25 years.

The entrance door locks, are available.

The nylon striker pocket is part # 91377.

Andy
I have placed my order for the 'pocket'. The trailer was advertised and the pink said that it was a '65 when we bought it. After joining this Forum these very knowledgeable members taught me that it was indeed a '66 built in October '65. Of course the Corning windows were a clue too. As for the travel lock mine can be locked and unlocked from both the outside and inside. Obviously it's only purpose is addtional insurance against the door opening in transit. My entry doorlock (knob) works smoothly. What maitainence must I do to keep it that way? I have read several horror stories in this Forum of people finding themselves locked in.
Thanks again,
Neil.
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:57 PM   #27
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Blue Door Block Lock/Shim

Quote:
Originally Posted by FreshAir
The serial # is SO246012. The photo shows the door knob and desd bolt. Pleas tell me your part number for the 'pocket' and I will order one post haste.
Thanks again.
Neil
Neil/Lynn,

Did you make the blue block lock/shim? If so, would you mind tracing the pattern and sending it to me? I've been reading over some of the door lock problems and what I'm experiencing falls some when in between (I guess). I have the round deadbolt pin below the lock/striker plate. Everything seems to work OK, however, due to age and maybe a bit of wear, the door has a good 1/4" gap when closed. I'm in the process of replacing the screen door seal and main door seal, but even this won't make up for the gap. The only reason the gap bothers me is that we've got alot of dust and high wind in NV and all of that just blows right into the trairler when we're hummin' along. Your simple solution has piqued my interest as I don't really feel like moving door hinges around, etc. Anyone care to give me their opinion on the state of the striker plate? Andy? I suppose it is a bit worn and has LOTS of rivets...Thanks, Steve
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:30 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrSt8Steve
Neil/Lynn,

Did you make the blue block lock/shim? If so, would you mind tracing the pattern and sending it to me? I've been reading over some of the door lock problems and what I'm experiencing falls some when in between (I guess). I have the round deadbolt pin below the lock/striker plate. Everything seems to work OK, however, due to age and maybe a bit of wear, the door has a good 1/4" gap when closed. I'm in the process of replacing the screen door seal and main door seal, but even this won't make up for the gap. The only reason the gap bothers me is that we've got alot of dust and high wind in NV and all of that just blows right into the trairler when we're hummin' along. Your simple solution has piqued my interest as I don't really feel like moving door hinges around, etc. Anyone care to give me their opinion on the state of the striker plate? Andy? I suppose it is a bit worn and has LOTS of rivets...Thanks, Steve
1967 trailers used the "nylon" striker pocket, as previously posted.

The nylon pocket was used in all the models from 1964 through 1969.

Using a metal striker pocket for those years, accelerates the wear on the striker bolt, as well as wearing rather fast itself, especially if the running gear is not balanced correctly.

Andy
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