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Old 06-19-2011, 09:37 AM   #1
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Installing a deadbolt

My first problem was that I have a door with a KT lock assembly. Even with a new lock cylinder; the ability to lock and unlock the door was a gamble. If I did get it to lock; at times it would be a real struggle to get it to unlock. The hole that the lock cylinder is located is sooo worn that the cylinder is really lose and moves around.
My second problem was; Where can I install a deadbolt lock assembly in order to have access to the inside handle? With the screen door limiting access to any dead bolt location (without modifying the screen door) and the KT Lock assembly taking up the hand hole space in the screen door there was no place to install the deadbolt in the door itself.
With the inability to locate the dead bolt in the door, the only other option was to locate it in the trailer body. This brought up another road block. That being, the edge of the door being too thin to cut a hole for the bolt to slide into.
I installed the dead bolt assembly in the body of the trailer, then carefully marked where the bolt made contact with the edge of the door. The installation would require cutting thru the edge of the door frame and skin on the inside edge. Leaving no material on the inside of the door for the bolt to hold the door closed and locked. Now what? Answer: Fabricate a plate for the inside edge of the door and install the striker plate on the edge of the door.
Here are a few pics. Taken with my iPod Touch.
NOTE: All the pics came out sideways, so I will post them again!
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:28 AM   #2
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Pics

Pics
Top left = Door Jamb
Top right = Outside view
Center left = Inside view
Center right = Edge of door
Bottom = Inside door and striker plate
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Name:	Inside Edge of Door.JPG
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:02 PM   #3
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A dead bolt assembly that is about 2" longer than standard is available at some lock shops. I have such a dead bold on our '65 Caravel, and I had to replace it a couple of uears ago due to wear. First place I went to had it $20.

Now I tell you. Where was I when this was being planned?

Oh well, perhaps this info will help the next guy.
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:54 PM   #4
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Oh! It wasn't the length of the bolt that was the problem. It's the diameter of the bolt and it's position relative to the thickness of the door. In the photo of the jamb the bolt is pretty much centered. But the jamb is wider than the door is thick. The photo with the striker plate shows how in effect I made the door thicker. When the bolt is extended (in the locked position) it is more than an inch past the edge of the door, so the door is securely locked.
By the way, I used a standard single dead bolt available at any hardware store. I used the 2 3/4" setback and a deadbolt designed for an 1 3/4" door thickness. One for a 2" thick door would have been slightly easier to assemble in the trailer wall because of the longer screws.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #5
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I understand what you did.

On our Caravel, there is a standard door knob rather than some fancy, expensive to replace, other type, and a dead bold just above it, mounted on the door, both using the same key. They are set about four inches from the edge of the door and the works extends into the edge of the door jamb, rather than being mounted on the stationary side of the opening and extending into the door to catch.

Ours is the only one I have ever seen that is that way. Others may be that way, but I just have not come across them.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:26 PM   #6
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i used a standard deadbolt also. What i did was rather than trying to thicken the door or body (depending on where you put the lock) I reduced the thickness of the bolt using a grinding wheel. Worked quite well. Ed
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:02 PM   #7
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Thanks, good info, most dead bolts require a 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 door, most rv door locks use a 1-1/4" door / looks like a problem - still working on this problem - seek more info. Thanks again, best regards. George
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:51 PM   #8
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There used to be a guy that lived at Travelers Rest who came to the Internationals and would cut the bolt of the dead bolt in half and install it for you while you waited. It looked like it worked quite well. I can not remember if he used a spacer on the lock portion to make up for the thin walls on the trailer.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:26 PM   #9
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TG,

I did modify the screen door as shown in post #545 here:


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...-18448-39.html

It was only after we finished the job, and again later when the screen modification started to fail, that I realized that you don't really need a thumb turn on the inside. You already have that little knurled pin on the KJ lock when you are inside the trailer.

We also sliced the bolt, like Ed in Wyoming did.

I replaced the screen, with no fancy modification, and the dead bolt still works very well. It also gives a sense of security when you are rolling down the road, something the KJ doesn't do.

Sergei
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:43 PM   #10
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I'm looking at putting in a deadbolt - or similar setup but am thinking about going into the door from below. The frame around the door wouldn't stand really hard prying.

However, if I go through the frame/floor and into the door frame it would be more secure.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:46 PM   #11
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I noticed this version on Vintage Trailer Supply. Anyone try it yet ?

Custom Airstream Deadbolt
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