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Old 01-23-2019, 06:35 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
1959 18' Traveler
LYME , Connecticut
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 8
Installed new VTS lock cylinder H-20-2 and all features do work

I replaced the lock cylinder in my 1958 Airstream's Bargman lock. It took a while to figure it out and here how it does function:

- Inside handle and out side handle locked and dead bolt fixed and in the down position.

- Put in key and turn 1/2 turn clockwise, then back and pull key out. Outside and inside handle work. Dead bolt works which can lock the inside and outside handle, but unlocks when inside handle turns.

- Put key in and turn full turn clockwise and pull key out. Inside handle and out side handle work and dead bolt fixed in the up position.

- Repeat steps above the other way to mirror the function.

It has to do with the lock arm bent end being allowed to freely rotate 90 degrees each way in the lock installing the lock what I do is (with the lock cylinder installed in the door but the lock mechanism un-installed):

- Center the key in the lock cylinder so it goes in and out.
- Put the lock arm into the cylinder and rotate the arm, but not the key, 90 degrees clockwise while looking at the back of the door. The arm should stop rotation (if held erect...see below).
- Now take the uninstalled lock mechanism and turn the square socket in the mechanism all the way counterclockwise while looking in toward the interior of the airstream.
- Install the mechanism.

What happens is the first half tun of the key rotates the cylinder arm and the square drive in the mechanism, but then when turning the key back the arm rotates freely inside the lock cylinder and does not turn the square drive back, leaving the lock mechanism in the intermediate position that allows use of the dead bolt.

What I also found was that the bent arm was a little too long at its "hook", making it not rotate along the central axis of the lock cylinder but rather off center like a bent wheel rim. Also, I added a faucet valve rubber washer to the lock arm so that the arm is always standing erect out of the lock cylinder so the hooked end does not hang up in the cylinder. See my review photo on VTS.

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Old 01-23-2019, 07:31 PM   #2
Rivet Master

1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 730
Congratulations on getting the cylinder to allow all functions to operate as designed. I tried everything I could think of to make it work, but ended up sending it back to VTS. I kinda modified a typical cam cylinder to work and allow all the functions to operate. But I would much rather use the VTS one since it’s designed for the H-20. Originally the small 6” panel to access the lockset was installed with rivets. When I rebuilt the door, I used rivnuts instead of rivets in the event I needed to easily access the lockset. I can remove the mechanism in the future if need be. Thanks for the play by play on how you got it to work.

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Old 01-23-2019, 09:53 PM   #3
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1963 22' Safari
1955 26' Cruiser Overlander
Yakima Valley , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
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What Bubba said was our issue too. Fortunately an awesome forums member sold me a used lock cylinder and saved my bacon!!
Scott & Megan
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
wally:Restoring Wally Byam's 1955 26' European Caravan Trailer!
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:14 PM   #4
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SilverWind's Avatar
2017 25' International
1968 17' Caravel
Los Osos , California
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 127
Good info. Thanks
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:48 PM   #5
2 Rivet Member
Paradise , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 22
On the h20 I replaced the lock cylinder in, I took the guts out of the cylinder and ground a little off of the bottom end of the tumbler. So key could rotate a few more degrees before interacting with lock rod again.
Works great.

If the h20 was on the aft side of the door, or the key hole cover pin was opposite of it's current location, things would be great. But some modifications are necessary.
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