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Old 05-23-2006, 11:21 AM   #1
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Holding door half-open??

I wonder if anyone knows of a way to hold the entry door half-open. Perhaps there is some bracket that can be affixed to the door and exterior that will do the trick.

The reason I ask is because on our 25FB the entry door in the open position against the body blocks the kitchen window. We can't open the window with the door open, but would like to. A good door bracket would have to be rigid, I presume, so that it could hold the door in place regardless of which way the wind blows.
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:11 PM   #2
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A good question.... We have a 2002 22' CCD and the door blocks one of the dinette windows when in the open positon. So, we're also interested in a plan to hold the door half open for the same reason you've posted. Hopefully someone has a creative (and easy) solution!
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:27 PM   #3
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Good Question

I would say third on this motion. We have the same problem on our 30' Safari. I looked at the door latch mounted to the side of the AS to see if you could create a metal arm that would hook into handle and run to the sliding latch on the side of the AS. Have not figured out a good method for securing yet. Without a real solution leaving the window open is an accident waiting to happen.. either a broken window or a dented door or both. Which one of the AS community engineers have a solution?
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:42 PM   #4
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I built a device that works real well for holding my door half closed. But I don't think it'll work the other way.
Grin
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:08 PM   #5
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I may have what your looking for . I had a similar problem , my door opens toward the front and can only open 90 deg. because it would hit the awning arms . I used 2 ss eye straps that I found at the local boat yard and a piece of 3/8 aluminum rod from the hardware store . I'll try to get some pictures up , never did it before .
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:48 PM   #6
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Here are some night shots of the latch. I think they explain it. Here is how it was made: The rod was bent at both ends in the vice to the length desired. I got the holder for when the door is closed at an auto store in the electrical department. It's a little plastic self-stick device that seems to work well.
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:28 PM   #7
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Ticki2,

Yes, the photos help. You are fortunate to have the awning strut right next to the door so that the door bracket has a place to attach. On the 25FB the awning strut is opposite the door hinges so there is no convenient place to attach the door opening bracket.

I suppose it would be possible to anchor the bracket on the outside skin of the trailer, but I suspect it would be preferable to put the anchor on one of the ribs. The vertical rivet line must be the location of the rib, but I'd sure like to know what the structure looks like before I drill for a mounting plate. I don't have xray vision, but perhaps someone who has done an extensive interior renovation could offer guidance.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:08 AM   #8
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the horizontal rivet line seems to be strong enough for the eye strap on the outer skin , it's only a few inches from the frame of the door , just enough so the rod forms a triangle so it stays rigid. I made this set up 4 years ago and have not had a problem . Perhaps your 2006 , has different construction , I've not seen one up close .
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:20 AM   #9
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Ticki2,

You're right. I just looked at some of my photos and see that the horizontal rivet line is a few inches beneath the galley window. With that many rivets in the skin, the backing must be a main structural member.

I'll do some thumping to see if there are other ribs inside. By the way, do you affix the eye strap with pop rivets or tapped screws. I should think that some glue or sticky stuff between the strap and the skin would make sense too.
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Old 05-25-2006, 06:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myoung
Ticki2,


I'll do some thumping to see if there are other ribs inside. By the way, do you affix the eye strap with pop rivets or tapped screws. I should think that some glue or sticky stuff between the strap and the skin would make sense too.
I used ss sheetmetal screws with a little dap of caulking on the screw before installing . Also , if you notice in the pics , the bent end of the rod is longer where it attaches to the door than where it attaches to the coach . The reason for this is so you can lift it to place in eye stap on coach without removing it completely , it will just swing to snap into the holding bracket on the door . Hope that makes sense . One other thing , when I placed the eye strap I spanned a rivet ( the eye is centered on a rivet) so when the rod is in place it will rub on a rivet head and not the skin .
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Old 05-25-2006, 06:47 AM   #11
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How about a triangle kickstand at the bottom wedged into the ground... just a thought.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:19 AM   #12
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Wouldn't a kickstand have to be very, very long? Also, the distance between the door and the ground can vary a bit depending upon the slope of the site.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myoung
Wouldn't a kickstand have to be very, very long? Also, the distance between the door and the ground can vary a bit depending upon the slope of the site.
I think it would work....a little long but better than drilling holes....the ground variation/slope wouldn't make a diff as you could slope the stand to accommodate the angle needed. I'm sure it could be easy fabricated. I just snapped a rough pic of an idea along the lines.
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Old 05-25-2006, 09:23 AM   #14
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FB window....

I have the 25ft FB SE, and my kitchen windows are two oval side windows, like the vista views but smaller. They are the CCD style small windows and don't open. On the plain FB, don't you have Safari style sliders?

I also have a 2005 22ft CCD, and there I've always treated the front dinette window as "inoperable" because of the danger of the door whacking it.

Hopefully someone brilliant will come up with something that attaches between the door and the exterior latch that will hold the door 8 to 10 inches off the side of the trailer.

Say, I just had a brain fart. Maybe some kind of wedge that would fit over the hinge would do the trick. It would have to prevent the door from slamming shut or fully opening and be easy to put on or remove. I have a mental picture of a piece of hard rubber attached to something like a nylon dog collar that you could slip through the partially opened door, then tighten. Thinking.... thinking... thinking.

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