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Old 05-25-2006, 09:43 AM   #15
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Foiled Again,

The Safari 25FB has the combination upper fixed and lower tilt-out window. It is the lower section that interferes with the closed door.
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again

Say, I just had a brain fart. Maybe some kind of wedge that would fit over the hinge would do the trick. It would have to prevent the door from slamming shut or fully opening and be easy to put on or remove. I have a mental picture of a piece of hard rubber attached to something like a nylon dog collar that you could slip through the partially opened door, then tighten. Thinking.... thinking... thinking.

Paula
Paula,

How about a pic so we can get the ideas flowing....I love this stuff. I'm sure others with creative minds would like to add their thoughts. You could use a piece of black radiator hose or even garden hose with your idea. I like to recycle...I'm sure we could wip something up that's right under our noses that would do the trick.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:28 PM   #17
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two door stoppers

Just an idea, I have the same problem with my 30' Safari and after thinking about this I believe using two rubber door stoppers (the ones that look like a wedge). If you put them in the door on the outside each near the hinge they should prevent the door from opening too far. I'll try it this weekend. AZstreamin.
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Old 05-25-2006, 02:14 PM   #18
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I've been thinking along the lines of Paula and AZstreamin... some kind of wooden or rubber wedge which would hold the door in position. Keep the ideas coming.... we're sure to come up with something workable.
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Old 06-08-2006, 04:50 PM   #19
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Would the wedge system cause damage in winds?
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:09 PM   #20
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ticki2,

Today I got a 1/4-inch by 36-inch aluminum rod from Home Depot. But, try as I might I couldn't find any suitable eye strap at Home Depot or at two other hardware stores. You mentioned finding some at a marine supply store. Might that have been West Marine? There is a West Marine store near here so that's where I'll look next.

My alternative may be a pair of nylon plastic clips designed to hold wire. Less satisfactory, but it may be my only choice since I don't have the tools to fabricate one myself.

Once again, thanks for your input. I'm sure this will work well once I get all the parts fabricated and installed. Your scheme looks like a winner.
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:57 PM   #21
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We use a bungee cord and a tent stake when we want the door half open. We just put it below the end of the door. We use a large rock or a brick on the ground if the door is over concrete This is not high- tech but it works.
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:03 PM   #22
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Myoung
West Marine should have what you're looking for , or any marine store , even the small ones around lakes . The reason I went to marine is because you can find the eye hooks in stainless steel which is what I wanted . The rod I used was 3/8 and fit the eye hook snug so the door would not have any play . I'm sure the 1/4 rod is fine as long as the eye hook fits it . Good luck
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Old 07-02-2006, 10:27 PM   #23
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Thanks, ticki2,

I plan to put rubber or silicone surgical tubing over the 1/4-inch rod ends to cushion the connection. That should keep the movement to a minimum.
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Old 07-03-2006, 12:30 AM   #24
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Hello door fixers,

On my 60 tradewind it has a small chain about 4" long rivited to the top inside
upper wall just above the door opening ,a long spring is then attached to it
attached to the rivited (factory) buck rivit ,small bracket ,the door opens more than half way or more tension on the spring ,design so nothing gets bustd off if the door gets a shove further open by accident.You can unhook
the spring from the door bracket if you want and open the door all the way back .Nothing on the ground to trip over or to get ripped off the side of the trailer.

Scott
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Old 07-03-2006, 07:04 AM   #25
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Scott
That sounds like another good plan . However , my requirement was that the door be held in a fixed position . If it opened more it would hit the awning bracket and cause damage and I didn't want it to slam shut when a breeze came along .

Myoung
I like the tubing idea , sort of a replacable cushion
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:53 AM   #26
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I like the idea of the bunji cords. You can buy them in any color (how about blue) and you can even buy the cord and ends separately to make your own length. I would get 2 to form an upside down V from the inside door handle down to either tent stakes or better yet, those auger shaped rods you screw into the ground for your pooch when you don't want him to run off. There will be some movement in the door but not much.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:55 PM   #27
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Sounds like a aluminum cool ground up to the door holder is the ticket.Say somthing in the shape sort of like those aluminum stabalizer jack
stands ,Put one under the door edge and rotate the threaded shaft up to the
bottom door edge ,you could have a soft rubber cushion that touches the door itself and it will stay ,if windy ,then turn the shaft a little tighter to hold
the door and the base wont tip over .My tradewind had an original set in the rear trunk ,but the new ones they sell at rv stores look the same .Easy to
stow away and a couple minutes to put in place ,adjust high and low depending on the ground /terraine . simple ,maybe ??

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Old 07-25-2006, 09:11 AM   #28
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Ticki2,

We did it. The design you suggested works well. We used a 1/4-inch rod which bent fairly easily and has enough rigidity to resist buckling. If the wind is ever so strong to buckle the rod, we probably should have the whole trailer tied down!!

I bought two small Omega-shaped fairleads at the local West Marine store. There were many options to choose from but I bought the smallest and least expensive I could find, which had an intended benefit. I hadn't considered the height of the fairleads on the side of the trailer and on the door, but when the door is opened fully and latched to the side of the trailer in its normal position, it is important that the height of the two fairleads be so little that they don't touch the side or door. I hope this makes sense.

The most expensive component was the shrink fit tubing, which as it turned out was not really necessary. There isn't enough movement where the rod enters the fairlead to warrant having this extra cushioning.

The hardest part of the job was screwing in the self-tapping #8 stainless steel screws. I was surprised how difficult it was to cut the thread into the aluminium skins of the door and trailer. I had to drill the hole as large as the root diameter of the screw or just a bit bigger. Even then I had to repeatedly screw them in and out a little at a time by hand. I suppose it's good to know that the skin is so tough.

The next time we revisit our trailer I take a picture or two for posting for those interested.
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