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Old 05-23-2004, 09:35 PM   #1
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Help! Door Won't Unlock!

This weekend we were working at the trailer, then locked it to leave, forgot something and tried to unlock it. It wouldn't unlock. Tried many things like holding the door "up" or "in" while tring to open it (the hinge is a bit worn), but had no luck. Tried not to force it too hard so as not to break anything. It feels like something moves when the key is turned to lock or unlock the door, but no matter what, the door knob won't turn more than a couple degrees and the striker doesn't unlatch. Looking thru the window, it does not appear that the inside knob moves - not sure if it should move with the outside handle or not.

Is there anyway to get this thing open without either: 1) calling a locksmith, or 2) "breaking and entering"? I searched the archives and could find no help with respect to 1966 era locks (but many posts about early to mid-70's locks). The main tip I discovered in the search was that one might try to enter the coach thru an access door. In our case the only such option would be the one under the mid-ship bed. Anyone know how to get the hinged compartment door open from the inside? Our '66 has metal lacthes that hold the door closed - I'm wondering if I can slip a wire in there to unlatch it.

Anyway, back to the lock, anyone know that might have happened? Are parts available to repair it? Is this a "do it yourself" type repair? I see Inland RV has "new" 66-69 locks, but the picture has a different handle than the one on our trailer. I'd prefer to repair the existing lock if possible and consider replacement the last option.

Any and all advice would be welcome as next weekend was going to be the "big work weekend" getting ready for the WBCCI International - can't afford to have this setback delay us too long.

Thanks in advance,

Joe
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:31 AM   #2
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One more thought . . . Since I see Inland Andy also sells hinge pins for the big single entry door hinges used on certain trailers like ours, I suppose I could try to remove the door hinge pin to get the door off. How easy a task is this? Is it "do it your self"? The trailer is not "at home", but I think I remember that the hinge pin looked like it is held in with a few horizontal pins or "stakes". Do these need to be "driven out" or drilled out? Then can the hinge pin itself be "driven out" (pushed out)?

I guess I need to make an extra trip to the trailer after work one night this week to access the options for "entry" and "repair". Again any quick advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

Joe
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:54 AM   #3
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Door won't open

I used to have a similar problem on my 67 before replacing the L100 lockset.

The way that I used to get it open was to PUSH DIRECTLY IN on the door knob while turning it. This would somehow allow the worn guts to engage properly.

I would suggest that you replace it ASAP ... Inland RV sells a replacement and it doesn't cost an arm, leg and two ..... eyes.

Let us know if this works!

Good Luck!

DMC
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Old 05-24-2004, 02:45 PM   #4
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Door lock stuck....one cause

I have a sticky door lock and you have to push in on the door to successfully turn the key. Andy at Inland RV taught me why this happens....evidently the road vibration causes a vertical groove to be worn in the latch which causes the hangup. Pushing the door in gets you past this impediment.....a new latch would also fix this....
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Old 05-24-2004, 03:35 PM   #5
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Joe - we ended up having to remove our door by the hinge pins when our lock mechanism failed and the door wouldn't unlock. The hinge pins can be removed (this was a 78 Argosy Minuet) by tapping from the bottom up thru the hinges. It was not easy to move door past hinges, it took some manuvering, but it can be done. Found our lock was not broken, just jimmied. Was fairly easy to return door to proper alignment and return hinge pins to hinges.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:11 PM   #6
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Talking Good News!!!

Yes, a 6'1", 190 lb. man can enter an Airstream thru the underbed storage compartment! Now I can say "Been there, done that!"

Anyway, after getting in the trailer, the door opened perfectly from the inside. After we got it open we played with the lock and key and it became obvious that the key hadn't been unlocking the door after all. With uch experimentation (with the door open), we determined just the right technique to unlock it with the key, so for now we are all set, but I think a new lock set will be on the "to do" list pretty soon.

And it's good to know that the back door works when needed, too. All it takes is a little flexibility and the right technique, but I'm guessing the weight limit is about 200lbs.

Thanks for all the advice.

Joe
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:43 PM   #7
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Talking Gooder News!!!

Yesterday the lock finally gave up the ghost for good. The tumblers fell out of the lock so we couldn't even insert the key to unlock the door. It took another trip in thru the storage compartment to get the door open from the inside.

This bad news was offset by the "gooder" news. The new L-100 lockset we ordered from Inland RV a few days ago also by chance arrived yesterday! It took a little "lock ease" lubricant and a little finesse (don't overtighten the mounting screws) to install and get it working properly, but now we can lock and unlock our trailer with confidence.

One more project down, hundreds (well at least dozens) to go.

Joe
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:26 PM   #8
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Cool

Joe,

This has been a wealth of knowledge and experience shared here!
Thanks for posting the experience.
You never know what's gonna happen on a '66!!

Callie


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Originally Posted by 66Overlander
Yesterday the lock finally gave up the ghost for good. The tumblers fell out of the lock so we couldn't even insert the key to unlock the door. It took another trip in thru the storage compartment to get the door open from the inside.

This bad news was offset by the "gooder" news. The new L-100 lockset we ordered from Inland RV a few days ago also by chance arrived yesterday! It took a little "lock ease" lubricant and a little finesse (don't overtighten the mounting screws) to install and get it working properly, but now we can lock and unlock our trailer with confidence.

One more project down, hundreds (well at least dozens) to go.

Joe
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Old 07-27-2004, 07:22 AM   #9
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We had the same groove problem as mark.. The striker plate was a very hard metal and made a deep groove on the latch. Got locked in and could not open it from inside. Took two adults pushing in from the outside to rescue me. Almost as enbarassing as my tie in the paper shredder. Please note never bend over a paper shredder with a tie on. Never..
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markparker22 View Post
I have a sticky door lock and you have to push in on the door to successfully turn the key. Andy at Inland RV taught me why this happens....evidently the road vibration causes a vertical groove to be worn in the latch which causes the hangup. Pushing the door in gets you past this impediment.....a new latch would also fix this....
Well, I am going to try that because I am currently locked out.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:19 PM   #11
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Are you sure 'Mike the Bike' is not on the inside position. (trying to get even with you for not peddling)

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Well, I am going to try that because I am currently locked out.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:45 AM   #12
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Well this has been enlightening... I have a 66 overlander that I'm living in and making a list of things that need to be done. The door knob is a bear to turn when the door is closed and is very had to get open or closed... age I guess. The keys weren't included when I got it and I'm waiting for them now. I'm hoping the key to the inverter(?) compartment is inlcuded, otherwise a locksmith will have to be called. Sounds like I may be opting for a new door knob and lock... I'll check out Inland's replacement. Thanks!
Dianne
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:38 AM   #13
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In reference to post #9 I would add to be cautious when dusting your paper shredder with a feather duster. My wife learned that the hard (and humorous) way. The shredder can make very short work of a feather duster (pun intended).
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