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Old 10-08-2016, 09:47 AM   #1
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2015 25' Flying Cloud
Tappahannock , Virginia
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FC door latch bolt fell out!

Flying Cloud door latch bolt fell out after a bumpy ride and it looks like the backing plate (is this a plate with a threaded hole or a separate nut?) has dropped down inside the door jamb cavity! Any suggestions on how to repair this? Looks like I could remove inside trim but that may not give me access!
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:21 AM   #2
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2009 25' FB Flying Cloud
1973 31' Sovereign
Mt Angel , Oregon
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YIKES!!!

Your photo motivated me to check my door latch post before I finished my morning coffee!! My latch post wasn't loose, but it wasn't tight either. Thanks!!

I have not worked on my door, but I have removed the door interior trim, inside handle, headache pad, and interior sheet aluminum rivets to access wiring inside the wall next to the door. Removing these parts is straight forward screw-and-rivet removal.

The door frame is tight to the end wall rib. Removing the interior pieces mentioned may allow you to retrieve your part. If you can't get the part out you may have to remove the door frame.

Also, the threaded part that fell was probably secured with rivets or screws to either the end wall rib or door frame. Perhaps you can see the means of attachment thru the hole the latch post occupied.

Good luck! Let us know how you solved the problem.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:24 AM   #3
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Decision time!

Bob

I concur that removing the inside panel is the only way to go and that will allow me to retrieve the lost bolt plate and allow me to put some wiring in place! It just takes some courage build up to start drilling a dozen rivets out of our 1 year old AS! Thanks for your good suggestions.... db
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:30 AM   #4
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If your AS is less than two years old, have it repaired under warrenty.

Mike
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:01 AM   #5
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Before you consider removing the inside panel consider this. I have had to work on my dead bolt, and door hinges and do this. Cut a small access hole to alow you to get to the nut of the bolt and secure the bolt. Then cover the hole with a plain white electrical box cover.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:23 AM   #6
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(1) if under warrantee that would be my route of choice unless distance to the dealer is a big issue.

(2) May be a long shot, but I am guessing that the nut or threaded plate that dropped down inside the alum. doorframe would be steel.

If so would it be worth a try with an extra strong magnet (Harbor Freight?) to see if you can attract it to the vertical alum. door post and drag it back up to the hole.

If that would work, and if it is a square metal plate with welded nut or similar, then hopefully it would be trapped from turning inside the door frame and if you can get it lined up with the hole you should be able to just screw the bolt/latch pin back in place. If it is just a loose nut, then not so likely to work.

(3) Make a neat access hole in the right position on the inner wall using a hole saw. Install a new nut, then cover the hole with a neatly made (or store bought?) removable panel of some sort.

Them's my thoughts!

Brian.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:28 AM   #7
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On our 04 30' classic , I opened up the side panel a bit and used a wire to retrieve the bracket with the nut on it..then a new revit on it to hold in place..
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:50 PM   #8
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Thank you all for tips and suggestions! I was happily surprised at how easy it was to remove the entire aluminum panel forward of the door - the panel measures some 6" width by about 60" - requiring about 15 rivers to be drilled out with a 1/8" drill. Pulled the panel clear and immediately found the steel bolt plate which had dropped some 12" down the jamb, riveted that plate back in its place, and put the door latch bolt back in place and coated the thread with Loctite just to make sure ! Putting a dozen 1/8" aluminum rivets back in place was quick, easy and done in 15 minutes and it looks just like new! I've had no other warranty issues (luckily so far so good!) and I still have six months to run but making the trip twice and being out of use for a week would be a pain. Hardest part was agonizing over drilling out those rivets! I'll never hesitate on that again!
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:21 PM   #9
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Thanks for sharing the rest of the story!! I'm glad it was a straight forward fix. And thanks for posting the photo in your first post as it really illuminated the problem.

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Old 10-30-2016, 07:10 PM   #10
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Sounds great - I was thinking you had a huge panel to remove to completely remove - or just remove some of the rivets to get in but risk kinking the panel when you moved it out of the way to get access.

Much better than cutting a hole if no need to do so.

Are the inside rivets just regular pop rivets? (Mine is covered with "Mouse fur!")


Brian.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:08 PM   #11
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Just to cover some of Brian's items, I did remove some adjacent and some overlapping panel rivets so I could move the main panel without damaging or buckling it. Also there is a aluminum finishing strip that runs along the inside of the door frame and I marked the holes which had Philips screws so that I did not accidentally get carried away and rivet those holes as well! Note I used stainless screws to replace the steel screws that had already started corroding in 18 months. The rivets are standard 1/8" aluminum rivets with a 1/4" grip.
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