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Old 01-27-2004, 11:05 AM   #15
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Smily.

Most of the hinges on the single hinged doors were installed wth 1/4 bolts. Simply loosen them on the door and reposition the door.

If there is not enough slack to realign the door correctly, then enlarge the holes so that you can have further movement.

If the hinge is riveted in place, then drill the rivets out and install 1/4 inch plated bolts.

Do not use bolts any longer than necessary, or you will have a problem with the screen door.

Andy
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Old 01-27-2004, 01:21 PM   #16
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Re: Deferred for now

Quote:
Originally posted by tcwilliams
johnbaker

I have not disassembled my door hinge. On closer examination, I can clearly see wear in the hinge independant of the pin. While the hinge pin may be worn, replacing it would not totally fix my problem.

I spoke with a machinist about bushing the hinge. He agreed it could be done, but only with the hinge removed from the door. While I can drill rivets with the best of them, I would rather have a highly qualified person reinstall the door.

I'll revisit the issue later. Good luck with your similar issue, and please post your results.

Tom
Tom, It may be next week before I can take the A/S in for service, I'll post the fix and let you know. JB
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Old 08-08-2004, 08:28 PM   #17
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hinge worn

Johnbaker mentioned that the hinge was worn. A new hinge pin will not fix the problem if it is installed in a worn hole in the hinge. Has anyone had good luck having the hinge hole drilled out a little bigger and a new larger dia. hinge pin installed?

silver 67
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Old 09-17-2004, 07:14 PM   #18
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Today I tackled removing the door on my '66 overlander. The biggest challenge was removing the thru pin which holds the door hinge pin from moving up or down. It was brittle and promptly broke off flush with the hinge body. Trying to tap it out with a punch was a waste of time. It appeared to be made of spring steel and had welded itself to the aluminum hinge body. Several broken drills bits later I finally was able to drill it out. Hinge pin tapped out from top with moderate force. Now the bad part - hinge pin not worn. Wear appears to be in aluminum hinge body holes on both trailer and door. Andy's suggestion about door adjustment is worth consideration as the most economical solution. I'm gonna try that first.

James
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Old 09-18-2004, 05:40 AM   #19
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Howdy Technautica, I just had my door repaired at a local welders, and ran into the same problem with the hinge pin. The PO had used vice grips to try to remove the pin and the groves left by the VG's took the place of the roll pin. Not only was the hinge worn to let the door sag, but the arms of the door side were worn down ,letting the door drop down. It already had steel 1/4 washers installed and they had worn into the hinge also.
When I was ready to install door, I put the pin in the freezer for a time to let it contract, making it easier to install. Measure the pin from the notch to find the top /bottom,(mine was shorter on one side, the bottom I think) I had some 1/4" brass washers from another project, ( should have gotten nylon) that I used to raise the doors. As to the sag ,(appox. 3/8") my hinge is rivited ,so I'm going to get back to it latter, i'm going to try to make a small rub pad/ramp that will raise the door back to level. (On my dump truck, the door has one that is OEM to keep the weight off the door hinge) . I know this is only a quick fix, but the hinge is on the list.
By chance did you make a wiring diagram of the univolt wiring,(12v system) or have you gotten that far yet. I'm going to remove the battery charger that PO installed , and it never hurts to have a picture to look at .
Good luck Toby
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Old 09-19-2004, 03:40 PM   #20
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electical wiring

Toby:

I assume the ramp you are talking about would be built at the door sill level - is that correct?

I have not tackled the electrical system as yet. I am still trying to finalize getting this unit as water tight as possible before tackling a rotten rear floor. Electrical is down the list a bit although I will have to remove univolt etc. to replace floor. I have the original handbook that came with trailer and it includes a wiring floor plan for a/c & 12 volt layouts. There is also a schematic for the battery, univolt, and panel layout. I'd be happy to scan it for you if that would help.

My trailer had been used in a permanent spot by PO and he had wired in a electrical panel, c/w 220 volts and to installed a instant hot water unit in back. I guess I'm going to have to re-wire all of this as the plug is a 4 wire connector which will be a limited use in any trailer park.

My immediate need is a single opener for the astrodome. I acquired 3 spares with trailer, all of which are seized and I can't free them up no matter what I try!!!

James
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:31 AM   #21
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Elec. Wiring /ramp

James , yes, you are correct , the "ramp"(or wedge if you will) would be on bottom, on the lock side. I was able to rise the door by inserting 2 more washers, so I don't need as much height. The material that I was going to use , is a sample of a bed liner (for dump trucks/trailers)called Quicksilver. I got it at a truck repair that works on dump trks. You might try any local machine shop, to see if thay have a small piece of teflon, which I think would be better.Get the shape you want ,drill 2 holes, countersink them,and I'm going to use S.Steel screws, I would put a drawing on here , but I aint figured how to yet. Now this is a "quick fix" ,as i'm trying to get mine ready to use , not restore it.
If you could scan the wiring diagram and schematic , it would be a big help. You might want to post the scan here too, as I'm sure it would be a big help to others .
As to the opener for dome ,InlandRV has them onsale till the end of the month,I think. I have a few that don't work either, but like you say , down on the list. Toby
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
. Doors, within reason, can also be adjusted to compensate for some hinge pin wear..
I think Andy has the best solution overall. But I still can not bring myself to drilling out the door hinge rivets, wallering out the holes, and installing new hardware. Talks with a machinist have not been encouraging as far as bushing the hinge pin holes.

In the mean time, I have come up with a "fix" that is a cross between, what I call a "bandaid", and a solution: A block of wood in the lower-left corner of the door frame. If I decide I like it, I may machine a similar-sized piece of aluminum, declare success, and move on.

With the block installed, the door is neither no longer out of alignment, nor does it rub on the [diagonal] side of its frame like it used to. From a stress point of view, off hand, I do not see any bad issues. Due to the placement of the block, the door does not slide on it, so door operation is unimpaired.

Anyone care to share thoughts on the prototype pictured below?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
I think Andy has the best solution overall. But I still can not bring myself to drilling out the door hinge rivets, wallering out the holes, and installing new hardware. Talks with a machinist have not been encouraging as far as bushing the hinge pin holes.

In the mean time, I have come up with a "fix" that is a cross between, what I call a "bandaid", and a solution: A block of wood in the lower-left corner of the door frame. If I decide I like it, I may machine a similar-sized piece of aluminum, declare success, and move on.

With the block installed, the door is neither no longer out of alignment, nor does it rub on the [diagonal] side of its frame like it used to. From a stress point of view, off hand, I do not see any bad issues. Due to the placement of the block, the door does not slide on it, so door operation is unimpaired.

Anyone care to share thoughts on the prototype pictured below?

Thanks,
Tom
Tom, I am sure you know after using this field repair for some time, the wood block, and/or the aluminum it rubs against, will wear away, leaving you with your original problem, plus probably having to repair the doorframe as well. I didn't look at your door while I was there, but if the hinges and pins are similar sized to some auto hinges, why not get a hinge pin and bushing kit from an auto parts store? If they are close in size, all you wold have to do is dril the hole in the hinge back round, and drive the new bushing in the hole, place the door, and insert the new pin. Trim off the excess length. The kit I am thinking about is the one that would fit your Suburban.
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:40 PM   #24
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The Big Picture

Oops, I realized my zoom-in may have been a bit much. Here's a bigger picture below.

Tom
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
... this field repair for some time, the wood block, and/or the aluminum it rubs against, will wear away, leaving you with your original problem, plus probably having to repair the doorframe as well. ... why not get a hinge pin and bushing kit from an auto parts store? If they are close in size, all you wold have to do is dril the hole in the hinge back round, and drive the new bushing in the hole, place the door, and insert the new pin...
Hi Terry,

Oops, I meant Hi Mr. Terry

The problem is that the hinge is, like, a foot long, and I do not think the hinge pin is worn but rather the pin holes are egg-shaped. Drilling the hole in the hinge is the major issue as it would take quite a long drill. In my experience, drilling precision holes with a drill that long takes an impressive setup, and a person with experience. I have neither. If I could implement your excellent idea, I would. At this point, I don't think I can.

Thanks though; I appreciate your response!

Tom
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Oops, I realized my zoom-in may have been a bit much. Here's a bigger picture below.

Tom
Oh, it looks a little smaller now. Your original photo made it look like you had a 2x4 in there...
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:26 AM   #27
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TomW

Your bandaid repair, is ok, but for a very short time.

It is avoiding the real issue.

Realigning the hinge, is the only permanent pratical approach to the problem.

The original hinge pins were made from stainless steel. We replace them with drill rod material.

Andy
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Old 10-17-2005, 01:16 PM   #28
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Your bandaid repair, is ok, but for a very short time ...
Andy,

I can not figure out any reason why this "repair" would only last a short time. You are correct in that your plan to realign the hinge is the best practical solution. But, if done improperly, it could be a bad scene.

The problem with a worn hinge, to me, is that it allows the top corner of the door opposite to the hinge to wear where it is not supposed to. My shim idea corrects this problem.

Why would this repair not last long?

Tom
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