Entrance Door won't shut!

[Kelly Green]

Greetings!

My family and I purchased a new 2007 Safari SE (25') this past summer and were able to use it about 8 times with a few minor glitches here and there. We did have the door lock on us once with the 3 year old inside...we blamed the three year old but I now realize that it might have locked itself. We had an extra set of keys in the truck and the three year old didn't even realize she was locked in. I will be sending for my free lock part fix kit tomorrow...thanks Andy & Inland RV Center, Inc.!

Ok...here is my problem. I recently brought my Airstream back from the local RV center for winterization (the nearest Airstream AD is nearly three hours drive). Everything was fine upon arriving home but I decided to take one last look inside before closing down for the winter. As I was leaving I closed the door and it "clunked". I could tell right away it didn't close...so I tried again. Same thing.

The outside door will not close enough to even lock the door with the deadbolt. The screen door will close by itself with no problem. The outside door doesn't seem to be hitting on anything. The Airstream is level and the stabilizer bars are "lightly" touching the ground. The latching mechanism seems to be the problem.

(excuse the less than technical description to follow...)

The claws of the latch will not close by themselves once they hit the post on the door frame. I can get them to move/close with my fingers but the post does not engage them to the point that they close thereby securing the door. The door handle is not locked and the deadbolt is not engaged.

Any ideas before I remove the locking mechanism cover to see if anything is broken?

I suppose if I can't fix this myself and will have to duct tape the door to seal it from rain and snow over the winter until I can get it back to the AD.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

[Janet H]

Can't say about the lock, but I urge caution with duct tape or any tape. It will leave sticky residue and may damage the finish. Find another way. Consider tha plastic stuff they use to band pallets of boxes and cover boats prior to sale. They sell it at mailbox type stores. You could go all the way around the trailer.

Welcome to the forums - sorry about the circumstance.

[moosetags]

Hi, welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

If you can get the double catch to close by pushing it with your finger, it should close around the post in your door jamb. Close the door slowly and look in with a flashlight. The post should be centered on the two catches on the door. If it is off center, you can loosen the post with a 3/4" socket. It can be adjusted slightly and retightened.

Brian

[2airishuman]

hi kelly and welcome to the forums...

have you got a photo of the latching mechanism?

it reads like the mechanicals moved to the closed position before grabbing the post.

IF this has happened the door won't close.

using the key, UNLOCK the door and the pull open the outer handle and twist the inside handle.

the grabbers should return to the open position now.

IF the latch mechanicals are broken and you cannot get this repaired properly,

i'd use blue or purple painters tape (several layers) around the door/trailer opening, NOT duct tape.

a photo would really help.

cheer
2air'

[wahoonc]

My only suggestion is to take the stabilizers up, my trailer has gotten in a bind more than once that made it impossible to open the door, when the stabalizers were down. As far as tape...if you decide to go that route, I would suggest the pure aluminum tape that is used for duct work. The adhesive is a bit less agressive and won't leave as much residue as duct tape. It also has the advantage that it is UV stable and won't deteriorate and leave a gummy mess like the Duct tape will. Not sure how it will affect the clear coat. I don't have enough clear coat left to worry about

Aaron

[SilverCottage]

I find when closing the doors (screen + outer) on mine, I must make sure the screen and outer door are snapped together before the pair of them will close. Sometimes we have the screen closed and then shut the outer door on top of it. I find it almost always makes a funny clunk and does not really shut. I then open the screen door, snap the two of them together and then the pair of them shuts without much problem.

I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.

I would hesitate using any tape on the trailer. Even painter's tape after 6 months is going to leave a residue or damage the clearcoat.

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by wjboswell

I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.

Hi -- "Andy" reporting in here. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ing-27193.html and http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...oor-36890.html.

Detroit Lakes? Welcome to the Forums! Nice area! We used to do a lot of X-C skiing at Maplelag (Callaway) when the kids were at home.

FWIW -- Mineral spirits and steady rubbing did not remove all the duct tape adhesive from my Argosy days. I shudder to think about the possibilities with clearcoat issues.

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by Janet

Can't say about the lock, but I urge caution with duct tape or any tape. It will leave sticky residue and may damage the finish. Find another way. Consider tha plastic stuff they use to band pallets of boxes and cover boats prior to sale. They sell it at mailbox type stores. You could go all the way around the trailer.

Welcome to the forums - sorry about the circumstance.

Your thoughts about duct tape are duly noted.

I thought about painters tape but I doubt that it would survive (stick) for 4-6 months in a Minnesota winter. Plastic wrap around the Airstream would likely seal in water where I don't want water to be for 4-6 months.

I may need to visit Menard's to look for another solution.

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by moosetags

Hi, welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

If you can get the double catch to close by pushing it with your finger, it should close around the post in your door jamb. Close the door slowly and look in with a flashlight. The post should be centered on the two catches on the door. If it is off center, you can loosen the post with a 3/4" socket. It can be adjusted slightly and retightened.

Brian

I will have to try this...thanks for the suggestion.

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

My only suggestion is to take the stabilizers up, my trailer has gotten in a bind more than once that made it impossible to open the door, when the stabalizers were down. As far as tape...if you decide to go that route, I would suggest the pure aluminum tape that is used for duct work. The adhesive is a bit less agressive and won't leave as much residue as duct tape. It also has the advantage that it is UV stable and won't deteriorate and leave a gummy mess like the Duct tape will. Not sure how it will affect the clear coat. I don't have enough clear coat left to worry about

Aaron

I already tried bringing up the rear (not front) stabilizers with no improvement.

I will try it again with both rear and front.

Thanks for the aluminum tape suggestion!

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by wjboswell

I find when closing the doors (screen + outer) on mine, I must make sure the screen and outer door are snapped together before the pair of them will close. Sometimes we have the screen closed and then shut the outer door on top of it. I find it almost always makes a funny clunk and does not really shut. I then open the screen door, snap the two of them together and then the pair of them shuts without much problem.

I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.

I would hesitate using any tape on the trailer. Even painter's tape after 6 months is going to leave a residue or damage the clearcoat.

In my situation...it doesn't seem to matter whether the screen door is shut first or snapped to the outer door.

[53flyingcloud]

Kelly Green,
Greetings..Just curious..How hard are you shutting the door?
If I may say, try this.. Slam it really hard several times and, see if that helps.
Listen, it won't hurt it..They are made to be slam'd..
Just be sure that the screen door is latched first to the outer door.
I know we all love our A/S and, treat it like its one of the family but, honestly..it's made to be used. The door of an Airstream is one of the best made on the market.
ciao
53FC

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

Hi -- "Andy" reporting in here. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ing-27193.html and http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...oor-36890.html.

Detroit Lakes? Welcome to the Forums! Nice area! We used to do a lot of X-C skiing at Maplelag (Callaway) when the kids were at home.

FWIW -- Mineral spirits and steady rubbing did not remove all the duct tape adhesive from my Argosy days. I shudder to think about the possibilities with clearcoat issues.

Duct tape is apparently a no-no.

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud

Kelly Green,
Greetings..Just curious..How hard are you shutting the door?
If I may say, try this.. Slam it really hard several times and, see if that helps.
Listen, it won't hurt it..They are made to be slam'd..
Just be sure that the screen door is latched first to the outer door.
I know we all love our A/S and, treat it like its one of the family but, honestly..it's made to be used. The door of an Airstream is one of the best made on the market.
ciao
53FC

Trust me...lack of force is not the problem.

[CanoeStream]

My Safari is not in my driveway to check -- until later today. Some latches (not sure about this one) can close when not on the frame pin. Slamming harder and harder can't be good in that situation.

[53flyingcloud]

Originally Posted by Kelly Green

Trust me...lack of force is not the problem.

I will say, the factory don't always get it right.
I have seen on brand new units from the factory where the entrance door didn't line up properly. (Makes you wonder about the so-call water test done at the factory.)
The only recourse was, to have the shop tech work on it till it closed and, it lined up right.
During a walk thru briefing with a Airstream Regional Manager, he would slam the door so much harder than I would ever dream of..Seeing the shocked looks on our face, he said, it doesn't hurt the door at all. Just a sales point that other SOB's wouldn't dare try. I had to agree.
A door not shutting properly should be readjusted by Pros. I would suggest that you seek out that service..Water damages can be costly, in the long run..
BTW, the advice about the use of tape is "spot on"..On one of my former units, the PO used tape around a storage compartment access door and, I had a one heck of a time cleaning it..

[pmclemore]

The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?

Pat

[Kelly Green]

Originally Posted by pmclemore

The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?

Pat

No unusual markings plus they had the keys. Before I towed it home I checked inside to make sure everything was secure and it shut and locked properly at that time. If it wasn't I am sure it would have swung open on one of the multiple turns on the way home.

I won't have the opportunity to try any of the above recommendations until tomorrow afternoon but I appreciate everyones input...keep'em coming.

[Mrs_RedSHED]

My 2 cents:
First penny - Find time to take it back to the AD with strapping tape (or some other 'keep it shut en route' solution.
Second penny - If you really can't get it back soon and must wait through the winter...then rent enclosed storage for one winter.

[richinny]

take a look at the hinge pins. i'm not sure of model or years but some folks have had the pins try to escape. if you hold the latch open and hold the door in, will it then latch? as mentioned, see if the tongue of the latch lines up with the opening height.