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Old 10-26-2007, 11:09 PM   #29
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sorry but without better info on the actual issue...

no one here really knows.

YES doors (complete assembly, door/frame/rivets/hinges) can be replaced...

this is drastic and requires removal/replacement of the frame too (that riveted frame edging the HOLE in the side skin)

at about 3-3500$.

YES doors can be reshaped, refitted or otherwise corrected.

this may involve hinge movement, door post movement or even reshaping the existing door.

locks can also be replaced IF that's the issue.

they do re curve them (top or bottom) with 2/4s (and skilled brute force) at the factory; with success.

i've seen it. you don't want to try this yourself, and may not wanna watch.

any dealer that takes this on should have EXPERIENCE with the process.

again here, blinded and without ANY images, your door/lock/latch issue is still a mystery.

cheers
2air

and press-n-seal is SO not gonna work.

this is a new, expensive purchase,

so it seems a little odd not to deal with this right away

take the darn thing to a dealer and get it evaluated.

IF you do need a new door take it to j/c ohio and let them 'winter' it.

parts and labor? are discounted and storage is free during the winter quarter.
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:57 AM   #30
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****UPDATE****

I pulled the Airstream down to Anoka last Friday securing the door with a bungie cord and duct tape (no damage done to the door). Yesterday, while I was at work my wife got a call from the service department saying our door was fixed. My wife did not ask many questions but it sounds like the locking mechanism was the culprit.

I will have more answers on Friday after I pick it up. Thanks for everyone's input!
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Old 11-15-2007, 08:28 AM   #31
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Glad to hear your door is fixed. I had the same problem almost to the tee. I could slam the heck out of it and it would only latch half the time. Of course depending how the trailer sat made and difference too. It still does to a degree.
I have a friend who is an Airstream Tech. He went to their school. Anyhow I showed him what was happening. He reached up and twisted the door so hard I thought it was going to rip off. Freaked me out. Then closed the door and click, Problem solved. Wheew
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Old 11-17-2007, 07:50 AM   #32
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Here is the repair summary:

"Adjusted door, lubed latch, shimmed striker. Installed new latch piece in handle."

The door works better now than it ever did...
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:50 AM   #33
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Response to the door latch

This happened once on my 25' 2007 Safari SE.
The door would not latch. I sprayed a small amount
of a dry lube on the latch mechanism and it worked fine.
May be an adjustment problem, and mine was just slightly
out. However, I definitely have to slam the door to make
sure it is closed properly, both from inside and out. Otherwise
the deadbolt will not latch. This sometimes wakes the wife,
, but at least she knows I am around.

Hank
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:24 PM   #34
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kelly see my posting for door fix 03 bambi

similar problem. see my fix under general thread. simple fix
good luck
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:01 AM   #35
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I just had the exact same problem in my 2006 Safari FB. The latching mechanism worked fine when I used my finger. The "apparent" cause is that this occured during an extremely cold day (down around 0 degrees.) The next day, when the weather warmed up to about 40 degrees, the door worked perfectly. So, the question is... Do Airstreams shrink when they are cold? Actually, the question is how do I adjust the latch/post?
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:58 AM   #36
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Yes they do. I can see buckles in my skin when she get colder and warmer than she was built. It is fine in the fall and spring but the summer and winter show deformation.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:44 PM   #37
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What am I missing here??? How do you "deadbolt" the door from the outside??? For the record, I use a short bungee cord hooked to the deadbolt lever on the inside to keep it from vibrating closed while travelling - a predicament that others have found themselves in. Do the newer/older trailers have a deadbolt that can be closed/opened from the outside? I've often thought of devising a way to secure the door on the outside, as a safety measure, but I've never bothered to date.
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:31 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker
What am I missing here??? How do you "deadbolt" the door from the outside??? For the record, I use a short bungee cord hooked to the deadbolt lever on the inside to keep it from vibrating closed while travelling - a predicament that others have found themselves in. Do the newer/older trailers have a deadbolt that can be closed/opened from the outside? I've often thought of devising a way to secure the door on the outside, as a safety measure, but I've never bothered to date.
If I understand you question, there are two keys. One locks the latch and the other locks the deadbolt from the outside. It can be locked from inside too. Having said that, the "deadbolt" is quite small. And the deadbolt lever is a rotator inside, so is not susceptible to vibrating closed. I would guess they made a design change...
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:51 PM   #39
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Cracker has described a necessary fix. Also described in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...fix-32012.html. It doesn't happen until it happens. And then I personally can't fit through my fantastic fan opening...
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:50 PM   #40
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Travel lock

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
Cracker has described a necessary fix. Also described in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...fix-32012.html. It doesn't happen until it happens. And then I personally can't fit through my fantastic fan opening...
The travel lock shown in Andy's detail, below the main entrance handle/lock, looks like an aftermarket add-on. All I have is the entrance handle/lock shown at the top, which has a built-in deadbolt that is only operable from the inside. It is this deadbolt that I keep bungee corded on the inside, since key or no key, if it vibrates closed you're up the creek. The separate travel lock would be a nice feature. As I mentioned above, I would like to have a simple solution so that I wouldn't have to worry about the door swinging open underway.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:21 AM   #41
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I have a two month old 2017 27 Flying Cloud. We’re camping and the last two mornings the temp has dropped into the mid 30’s. Both mornings, after exiting the AS, I was unable to close the door. It seems to be touching first at the top left corner looking at it from the outside. Later in the day it closes normally. Any ideas?
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:26 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kblitch View Post
I have a two month old 2017 27 Flying Cloud. We’re camping and the last two mornings the temp has dropped into the mid 30’s. Both mornings, after exiting the AS, I was unable to close the door. It seems to be touching first at the top left corner looking at it from the outside. Later in the day it closes normally. Any ideas?
Ken Blitchington
I wouldn't rule out temperature being the main culprit, but it may only be part of the equation. Do you have one of your stabilizers cranked down harder than the rest? I've seen people try to use the stabilizers for leveling and tweak the trailer enough to affect door operation.
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