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Old 10-25-2007, 10:02 AM   #15
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My Safari is not in my driveway to check -- until later today. Some latches (not sure about this one) can close when not on the frame pin. Slamming harder and harder can't be good in that situation.
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:39 AM   #16
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Undestand..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Green
Trust me...lack of force is not the problem.
I will say, the factory don't always get it right.
I have seen on brand new units from the factory where the entrance door didn't line up properly. (Makes you wonder about the so-call water test done at the factory.)
The only recourse was, to have the shop tech work on it till it closed and, it lined up right.
During a walk thru briefing with a Airstream Regional Manager, he would slam the door so much harder than I would ever dream of..Seeing the shocked looks on our face, he said, it doesn't hurt the door at all. Just a sales point that other SOB's wouldn't dare try. I had to agree.
A door not shutting properly should be readjusted by Pros. I would suggest that you seek out that service..Water damages can be costly, in the long run..
BTW, the advice about the use of tape is "spot on"..On one of my former units, the PO used tape around a storage compartment access door and, I had a one heck of a time cleaning it..
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:51 AM   #17
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The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?

Pat
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?

Pat
No unusual markings plus they had the keys. Before I towed it home I checked inside to make sure everything was secure and it shut and locked properly at that time. If it wasn't I am sure it would have swung open on one of the multiple turns on the way home.

I won't have the opportunity to try any of the above recommendations until tomorrow afternoon but I appreciate everyones input...keep'em coming.
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Old 10-25-2007, 02:44 PM   #19
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My 2 cents:
First penny - Find time to take it back to the AD with strapping tape (or some other 'keep it shut en route' solution.
Second penny - If you really can't get it back soon and must wait through the winter...then rent enclosed storage for one winter.
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Old 10-25-2007, 02:45 PM   #20
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take a look at the hinge pins. i'm not sure of model or years but some folks have had the pins try to escape. if you hold the latch open and hold the door in, will it then latch? as mentioned, see if the tongue of the latch lines up with the opening height.
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:50 AM   #21
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That's right -- I was going to snap a pic. It's not sharp but this pic should tell you clearly if your latch mechanism is not in proper position.
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
That's right -- I was going to snap a pic. It's not sharp but this pic should tell you clearly if your latch mechanism is not in proper position.
That is exactly how mine looks.

Ok...I spent the better part of this afternoon looking at the door and have come to the conclusion that the door itself has become warped. The door fits tight at the top but gapes about 3/4 of an inch at the bottom. You can see daylight from the inside if you look towards the bottom. The latch mechanism aligns dead center on the post. From the inside I can see the latch mechanism move but it won't lock so as soon as any pressure is released it pops opens.

I brought up all four stabilizers and even releveled the AS with no improvement.

Many have said that duct tape is a bad thing so I came up with another solution...Glad Press and Seal.

This is a problem for the AD...I will see if I can make time this fall otherwise we will see how well Glad Press and Seal holds up to a Minnesota winter.

I will keep you updated.
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:43 PM   #23
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You don't want to hear this

Normally a door warps after it's come open while on the road. As I hear it, the cure involves manually re-bending it (over 2" by 4")! PLEASE DON'T do this until you use the "Search" function and look up several threads on warped doors. If you have a suicide door - hinged in the rear - it can open into the wind. It's possible that it blew open, banged into the side of the Airstream and re-shut itself.

Those of us with FB's really like having the hinge forward doors! Wish they made them all like that.

The suicide door must be locked with the deadbolt while traveling and some folks have made nifty little wooden security thingies that go under the outside handle and hold the door shut.

Paula Ford
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:51 PM   #24
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There has to be some alignment problem working against you here. Both your hinge pins are present, right?

Due to awning arm issues most Airstreams have front suicide doors with rear hinges. These are highly subject to bent doors due to opening accidents while underway, causing the door to swing around and stop suddenly when it hits the body. How the heck could this have happened on a FB model? Braking is all I can figure. Have you seen the door fly open while underway? Did the Anoka dealership test drive your Airstream?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Green
I recently brought my Airstream back from the local RV center for winterization (the nearest Airstream AD is nearly three hours drive). Everything was fine upon arriving home but I decided to take one last look inside before closing down for the winter. As I was leaving I closed the door and it "clunked".
Was this one of the first things you did after bringing it home? Was it tight to open before this occurred? In other words -- is it likely something was done at the dealership? For one, you are still under warranty but they may not warrant a problem you caused. For two, I'd think they'd have to cover it if they did the flub-up.

I'll take some top & bottom pics of my door partly ajar to show how the door edge parallels the frame nearly exactly. A sprung door will not do that.

BTW -- there's no way to re-bend a door so that it works, maintains a weather seal, nor holds the shape for long. There are links on how to do a sprung door the right way...
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:52 PM   #25
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here's one!

Knackered door on Argosy!
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f310...osy-35461.html


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Old 10-26-2007, 08:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again
Normally a door warps after it's come open while on the road. As I hear it, the cure involves manually re-bending it (over 2" by 4")! PLEASE DON'T do this until you use the "Search" function and look up several threads on warped doors. If you have a suicide door - hinged in the rear - it can open into the wind. It's possible that it blew open, banged into the side of the Airstream and re-shut itself.

Those of us with FB's really like having the hinge forward doors! Wish they made them all like that.

The suicide door must be locked with the deadbolt while traveling and some folks have made nifty little wooden security thingies that go under the outside handle and hold the door shut.

Paula Ford
My door is hinge forward.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
There has to be some alignment problem working against you here. Both your hinge pins are present, right?

Due to awning arm issues most Airstreams have front suicide doors with rear hinges. These are highly subject to bent doors due to opening accidents while underway, causing the door to swing around and stop suddenly when it hits the body. How the heck could this have happened on a FB model? Braking is all I can figure. Have you seen the door fly open while underway? Did the Anoka dealership test drive your Airstream?

Was this one of the first things you did after bringing it home? Was it tight to open before this occurred? In other words -- is it likely something was done at the dealership? For one, you are still under warranty but they may not warrant a problem you caused. For two, I'd think they'd have to cover it if they did the flub-up.

I'll take some top & bottom pics of my door partly ajar to show how the door edge parallels the frame nearly exactly. A sprung door will not do that.

BTW -- there's no way to re-bend a door so that it works, maintains a weather seal, nor holds the shape for long. There are links on how to do a sprung door the right way...
Hinge pins are present. The door has never opened enroute to my knowledge (I always lock and deadbolt it). No idea what Anoka did to my AS prior to purchase.

I don't know if the door was slightly warped when I bought it...it has never leaked and it has always closed until now.

So are you saying I need a new door or that it can be fixed with a 2X4 and the proper amount of force? Either way it will be done by the AD.
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Green
So are you saying I need a new door or that it can be fixed with a 2X4 and the proper amount of force?
No to both questions. You will be unable to fix this with force. I would only have the dealer look at it.
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