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Old 05-24-2016, 11:50 PM   #85
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Steve, I will try. I'm pretty sure our entrance door seal fits a little loose near the bottom leading edge. I've never seen water come in, and if it did it is kept out of the interior by the ledge around the door frame. The door closes so easily as it is, I won't mess with it.

What if you went out there when it's raining cats and dogs, open the vents and turn both fans to high. Close bath and shower vents, access hatches and windows. Put drain stops in the shower and sinks, close range vent. Try to create a little negative air pressure inside the Airstream and see what happens.

I suppose the floor is open to the belly pan under the cabinets, maybe won't work.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:37 AM   #86
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It is the combined negative air pressure inside, plus the positive pressure at the front of the trailer, which add up to create the leak IMO, and only at highway speeds. One cannot replicate this combination, except while towing under similar monsoonal conditions, unfortunately. Standing still does not cut it probably.

[ Or putting the entire rig inside a wind tunnel, of course . . . ]



A third factor occurs to me, implicit in the above, but if -- while on a two-lane road -- a big semi comes along in the other lane, the blast of air from that rig hitting the front street-side door would be huge, and would "pump" any standing water (already pooled in the various gaps at the edges of the door) past the weather stripping IMO.

Steve, do you recall traveling any two-lane roads during your monsoonal motorcade meanderings? [ free alliteration too . . . ! ]

We all know the power of hydraulics in a variety of settings. Bulldozers come to mind -- have you ever watched them operate, and marvel at the ability of those small silver hydraulic cylinders to move the blade against such huge earthly resistance?

Good luck getting to the bottom of this. I hope Jackson Center appreciates these suggestions from the peanut gallery!

Cheers,

Peter
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:58 AM   #87
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Another interesting thought, Peter. I don't recall that but if so, that would definitely be another reason to put the emergency exit door on the curb side. It could also explain why I haven't heard about this phenomenon by rear bed owners with forward doors...
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:48 AM   #88
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Steve: Just found this thread. Congratulations on a terrific idea and following thru. The door looks great. My wife in particular has always been concerned about egress from the bedroom in our 30'FC and I've thought of a larger window, but not a door. Now going to consider this option thanks to you.

Enjoy

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Old 06-09-2016, 06:41 AM   #89
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Thanks, Bud. If you're interested, reach out to Brad in service: bherring@airstream.com - he's VERY familiar with the entire process. Garrett was the tech and did a great job.

I haven't figured out the seal leak under driving conditions - need to test that with the vents closed (not creating a vacuum) but Brad's aware of that and we'll probably head back next year to have it addressed.

Others here also thought doing it on the curbside might make more sense. So lots of options. We're very glad we did it! Good luck!
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:23 PM   #90
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Not sure if this is a really valid test but our ride back home from our trip this weekend included a soaked trailer from a weekend of rain - though it stopped raining when we actually left the campsite - and we went through a few periods of light rain (nothing like the torrential downpours first mentioned here). All vents were closed tight and there was no leaking from the door seal.

I found myself thinking...why can't I drive in the rain again? And - I wish I had a hose I could just aim at the door while driving to see if there would be a leak. Yes - this makes me weird... 😀

So while not an ideal test, I'm feeling like we might be on to something here.

Now if this is a good enough test, I guess the challenge would be to know on a 2-300 mile drive where and when to expect rain since the beauty of having the Maxxair covers on the Fantastic Fans is the ability to air out and cool off the trailer while traveling. Will keep you posted if we're ever lucky enough for another downpour 😀
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:59 AM   #91
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Not sure if this is a really valid test . . .
. . .
Will keep you posted if we're ever lucky enough for another downpour 😀
Glad things improved, but guessing like you that only a repeat of the previous conditions will be the true test.

Hope your summer is going well.

Peter
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Old 10-22-2017, 04:34 PM   #92
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Curious to know what they did, and how they tested it. Your old thread on this was interesting.

Thanks for the update.

Peter
Peter asked in another thread - thought I'd update the original:

Brought it back to the factory - covered (no charge fix) on original repair:

So they did another water test (had a hose on the exit door) but with the fans on drawing negative pressure out. When we opened the door we noticed 2 things:

1) window in the door needed to be resealed as water was leaking in from the glass itself.

2) hinges were an entry point for water. Darren put some 3M backed rubber cut to the hinges on the door while bending it a bit and then put some Acryl-R on the top seam of the door which they do on the production line but failed to do when putting the door in. Then redid the hose test and it was BONE DRY!!!

Really well done. The repair to the crunch from the neighbor was great, the awnings are awesome and the stainless was expensive but worth it.

Very pleased overall!
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:42 PM   #93
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No - no matching locks. I asked - they don't do it.

As a side note - I got a set of blanks to make a full extra spare set of all 6 (now) keys and they told me to have them cut at the hardware store right down the street from the factory. So I did. The woman behind the counter took my keys, cut the set, told me if they didn't work to come right back and handed them over to me. I asked what I owed and she said "nothing".

I was flabbergasted. I went back later that afternoon to buy a socket and extension. They're good people there!!


Went back to re-read after posting the update on the fixed leak and came across this post. Sadly, the hardware store with the wonderful people is now out of business

I went there during last week's visit to purchase a tool or two and found they were closed for good. So sad to see that....the AS folks told me that the hardware store owners had some of the AS service team come by to see if AS wanted to buy any of their machines or inventory.

Buy local whenever you can...
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:09 PM   #94
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Sorry to hear about the hardware store closing. Irreplaceable places, sad to see them go.

In the 90ís we had a busted pipe due to a hasty bad winterization on the road, and I found a great hardware store open early one Sunday morning in Pacific Beach CA that had everything we needed, including a NPT tap to clean up the threads in the back of the aluminum water heater, where I had to chisel out the old busted pipeís threads.

That store is probably long gone too.



Peter
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:59 PM   #95
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Man I hate the hardware store is closed. I shopped there while we were at the factory. I love old hardware stores
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:45 PM   #96
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Your door job looks great. On your leak, I'm glad it's fixed. My main entry door leaks if I am not careful when I pressure wash with low pressure (electric 1600 psi). I'm convinced the pressure lifts the seals enough to allow seepage. It is the same as going down the road in the rain as you have been doing. Adding to the problem is the flexing of the door and its frame during travel. Now, I am careful not to to blast the door seal areas in their direction. It did seem to leak more on the hinge side than the other side. It is probably because the tolerances are unequal.
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Old 11-30-2017, 05:38 AM   #97
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Your door job looks great. On your leak, I'm glad it's fixed. My main entry door leaks if I am not careful when I pressure wash with low pressure (electric 1600 psi). I'm convinced the pressure lifts the seals enough to allow seepage. It is the same as going down the road in the rain as you have been doing. Adding to the problem is the flexing of the door and its frame during travel. Now, I am careful not to to blast the door seal areas in their direction. It did seem to leak more on the hinge side than the other side. It is probably because the tolerances are unequal.

guskmg

Thanks - I'm very happy we did it.

I didn't get to see everything they did at the factory to fix it but what I saw included some hand bending of the door in the frame and applying rubber gaskets to the hinges.

I agree - the doors can be finicky especially with all the road vibration.

Good luck!
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:46 AM   #98
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. . .
I didn't get to see everything they did at the factory to fix it but what I saw included some hand bending of the door . . .
. . .
There are good YouTube videos for bending the door to fit. I cringed the first time our AS mechanic did it, but he knew what he was doing and fixed a serious gap problem in a couple of minutes with a 2x4 scrap and his body weight.

Itís just metal!

Cheers,

Peter
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