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Old 06-24-2011, 10:22 AM   #1
Upgrading piece by piece
 
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1967 22' Safari
Jackson , Wyoming
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Door sprung AND frame broken

My 67 Safari door has been through a lot of drama during the 5 years I've owned it. First the doorknob was off when I bought it -- PO said he took it off to polish the door -- so I put it back but it never worked quite right. Screws jiggled loose in California 2009 and locked our dog in, so locksmith pried door open, breaking the door edge. Spent summer 2010 with just the deadbolt, no handle. Finally got door knob fixed spring 2011 but they used a random lockset, not the long-tongue Bargman one, and moved the hole closer to the edge, patching with an aluminum plate.
Driving her home from repairs on Wednesday, I failed to deadbolt or bungee the door and it flew open and sprung. Upon closer inspection, I see that both sides of the frame are actually broken, and several rivets popped off so inner and outer skin are separated.
I'd like to find a door that's not so traumatized, but haven't been able to find one online.
I drank too much for two days while mourning.
Now it's time to put my big girl panties on and deal with it.
So off I go to the welding shop. Think good thoughts for me, please!
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:23 PM   #2
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Good luck with the repairs, sounds like a real BUMMER!!!

Post some photo's if you can, there may be someone here that could help with parts/advice.

Love the old Safari's...had a 22' 63.

Bob
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:57 PM   #3
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There's a door from a 73 Safari on ebay ...not sure if it would fit but worth checking into.
Door for 1973 Airstream 23ft Safari hignes | eBay
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:43 AM   #4
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1965 24' Tradewind
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My door frame is broken too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stella View Post

So off I go to the welding shop. Think good thoughts for me, please!

So, did welding the door work?
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOG View Post
There's a door from a 73 Safari on ebay ...not sure if it would fit but worth checking into.
Door for 1973 Airstream 23ft Safari hignes | eBay
WOG, Don't know if you noticed this or not but this is a door only. It won't help with the cracked frame... There is however a listing in the forums parts/appliances classifieds for a door/screendoor/frame from a '70's AS that might be able to be used. Not original I know but at least it's an option. Ed
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:55 AM   #6
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Had the same thing happen in 1983 on one of my first tows with my '69 International. Thanks to a very good welder who knew how to weld aluminum I was able to salvage the door. Just remember, not al professional welders are created equal!

Gene
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:38 PM   #7
Upgrading piece by piece
 
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My DH asked me to wait and search for a new door before trying the welding. It would be $170 at minimum,and who knows if the fix would hold. Soo, any 1966-69 Junkers out there you're parting out?
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:43 AM   #8
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Thumbs up Photo's

Stella,

Some photo's would help in your search for replacement parts.
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:09 AM   #9
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When I had a 66 tradewind, the lock falted and the door flew open at 60+ mph. Needless to say the shape of the door matched the side of the TT only in reverse. Found a heilarc welder and I removed the interior skin, frame was broken on both sides! Welder did a great job refitting with the door still attached with the hinges. I reattached the interior skin and never had a problem again. Pinned the deadbolt so as not to allow failure again. Good luck!
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:44 AM   #10
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I know those of us with "suicide doors" in particular are told to always lock the deadbolt - so sorry this occurred - good luck!
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:22 AM   #11
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doors and windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Stella,

Some photo's would help in your search for replacement parts.
This is what I'm looking for:


Door: 28 1/4" wide x 69 1/4" from highest point to bottom
Hinge: (only 1) 14 1/2" tall x 3 1/4" wide
Offset of door handle to edge: 4 1/2"


Windows: #1 - 18 1/4 W x 22 3/4" tall
#2 - 28 3/4 wide by 21 7/8
#3 - 28 3/4 wide x 21 3/4
#4 28 3/4 x 22 (could be 21 3/4)


The windows fit into a track at the top and have a place on the side for the slider bar that opens them.


I have attached pictures to help you see what I'm talking about.


Thanks
Lindy
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:36 AM   #12
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Regarding the welding, has anyone tried or heard of this process which you can do yourself? Makes it sound very simple to do your own welds, and it claims to be stronger than aluminum. These are 2 different companies but looks like similar products.

Aluminum Repair Video using our brazing rod HTS-2000 and a heat source, no welding machine needed!

Aluminum repair kits, repair any aluminum metal by welding with a Propane Torch - Alumiweld

I bought an Argosy recently and the door had a significant gap at top and bottom, about a 3" gap at the top of the door and a 2"+ gap at the bottom. Luckily I was able to get the bend out and do it without removing the door. It has a perfect fit now. Now I have to deal with the rotted floor by the door. Then when I do the floor, I'll find rusted frame beneath. The snowball effect....
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:04 PM   #13
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Looks interesting Wog. I cant see a need for it though as you can have a part tig welded at a low cost at a fab shop. Using that stuff looks like solder so it might work if your part is sitting on a bench but having to weld something still installed would be impossible. 1 problem people dont realize is, once you try and repair something yourself with a product like alumiweld or JB weld and fail at it. You take it to a shop to be properly welded and most of the labour involved is grinding away all the foreign substance that is not aluminum. When you Tig weld aluminum it has to be perfectly clean. You can also mig weld aluminum which is a cheaper method usually used in production lines. I use a mig for tacking parts together but then tig weld so the weld is not questionable.
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